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Our First MV's Recovered - Now on to Maintenance & Updates

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Hi Everyone! Been studying this site for a while now, reading up on "How To" articles and tons of other information. This is our first MV's and could really use some input and help. We need to get these trucks back up to full condition as we are going to need them soon when we are moving to the north west US. And they'll be pulling trailers. So All help and input is Much Appreciated!

What we purchased:
We had been looking for a Deuce for a while now, so finally I posted a WTB Ad a month or so ago. Well I had a guy contact me about a deuce he had, but it was just outside of Albuquerque NM. But the truck was supposed to be in really nice shape.
He was a welder for a movie studio and had the chance to acquire an 68' M35A2 Deuce that had been used on "Indiana Jones: Temple of Doom". It was also more recently going to be George Clooney's truck in "Men who stare at goats"... or something like that... That was until they couldn't hear Clooney's lines over the cab noise :grin: So the director ended up cutting the deuce and used a pickup truck. Later the studio decided they no longer needed the Deuce, and the guy who we bought it from had first dibs.

To long story short, I talked to the guy on the phone and email, and we came to a deal. So I started making plans to go to albuquerque New Mexico and decided going by train would be the best way to go. Which by the way, if you have to do a long distance trip, and you have a day or so to do it in, I highly recommend going by train if you bump up to a sleeper room. Made the 1300+ miles a Very Nice comfortable relaxing trip.

Anyway, since I was going to be in the NM area, I decided to also look and see if I could find a pick up out that way. As I sold my 08' honda element last spring to free up some cash for these trucks, as we needed a good pick up truck too.
Well after some looking, I come across an 86' M1008 with just over 10k original documented miles (on ebay of all place) that was in phoenix arizona. About 400 miles from albuquerque. I contacted the seller, seemed like a great truck with some recent updates. So in the last 12 minuets of the auction, we placed a bid, became high bidder and no one bid against us. So we won the auction and had a 2nd MV to pick up, so I had to enlist the help of my brother to go with me to drive the deuce, while I drove the CUCV.

Ok, we went out, picked up the trucks, only had a couple small problems, but All Thanks be given to the Heavenly Father Yahuah (which is the Heavenly Fathers original Hebrew Name written in the ancient Scrolls), we drove about 2100 total miles on our trip and made it back safely here at home last tues night.

Now that I have the trucks back here, further inspection, maintenance, and updates are now required.

First off, the Parking/E-Brake stopped working on the deuce on our way back. When we parked, my brother always parked it downhill against a curb, and then he found a large rock and used it as a make shift wheel stop. Always making sure that it could not roll.
Yesterday, we began to look and see what the problem was. It looks like there is only about 1/8" of pad left of the shoes, and the don't seem to be sitting on the drum correctly. Also not sure how much movement that the cable should have, but when you pull and release the parking brake, the cable moves very little, even when I turned the adjustment on the brake handle. We're thinking about replacing the cable, shoes, and springs. I have found a couple site that carry them, looks like Saturn Surplus has the best price on a set of shoes for $72.50. Eriks Surplus has the best price on a cable at $62.00 and around $7-$8 each for the Parking Brake Return Spring, Stabilizer "Mustache" Spring, and Outer Shoe Spring. Looking at the TM, I think this is all the parts I will need to rebuild the Parking Brake, but not 100% sure.
I will also be inspecting the regular brakes all the way around as well, and have been looking up prices for all involved components. Also was thinking about turning it into a two circuit brake system that I have read about, but not sure what all that involves yet at this time. Seems like it would be a good upgrade for safety reasons.

We're also going to be needing tires. We had two tires that were flat when we picked up the truck (although you couldn't tell it by looking at them). Just after we picked it up, we drove to a store and bought an air gauge. Using it and "kicking the tires" we found two were flat. So we went to a fuel station that had air, and filled both of them. Later one tire kept going flat, so bad at one point it actually broke free of the bead. I Thank Yahuah that it didn't come off the rim while we were driving. However after the last re-fill, we drove the last 150 miles home, at which point it was flat again. Today we were looking at that tire and found that the tire had spun around on the rim sometime after that last refill, and that either the valve stem has been sheered off or is now inside the rim.
So now we are re-searching on what kind of tires to get. We may just buy 2 new front tires and rotate the best tires to the rear. Or we may go with new tires all the way around. We really would like brand new tires, and I've been searching here on SS on what others are using. But it seems most people are using NOS or similar. I also haven't really seen a brand or type specific, or what companies or places someone might be able to find new tires. I've tried several tire sites, but they don't seem to list anything like these sizes. If anyone has some input, please make a post as we could really use some guidance here.

After all the tires and brakes are taken care of, we'll be going through the engine, Changing all fluids and filters. The oil filter gaskets are leaking, but I'm hoping that new filters and gaskets will take care of that. There is also a couple other leaks under the bottom of the truck, still have to take a closer look at those.

I've also got a heater and related components with the truck, but it's not installed. Been looking here on SS and seen a lot of people are putting the heater box inside the Cab under the dash. I was already thinking about doing this and have found some interesting posts, just need to figure out some of the details.

Exhaust noise is going to be an issue, as we will be using this truck on the highway. And to make it worse the J Pipe in the Exhaust is also rusted through, and it has been covered with a piece of metal and clamps. At first we were just thinking about replacing it, however we would still have the noise. Thought about also putting on a muffler, that would take care of some of the noise. But I have also seen some members have re-routed their exhaust out the back of the truck and then turned out behind the mudflap, with the opening pointed down toward the ground. That would remove the noise and place it at a good distance away from the cab.
For engine and other noises, we are also considering some type of noise damping materials inside the cab. What I am currently thinking is first to seal up all the holes and boots that are no longer there. Then coat the floor and firewall in bedliner to seal up all the tiny cracks and such, plus it will protect the floor from rust. Then lay down some type of sound deadening material like dynamat/dynapad, but it's pretty expensive. Then over top of that some type of rubber mat material.

The bed cover/tarp that came with the truck was supposed to be new, and it looks to be new with only a few tiny pin holes mostly in the seams, which I would guess can be taken care of with some type of seam sealer.
But the worst thing is the cover is the wrong size. I think it is actually for a 5-ton but I'm not certain, as it is way to long. We folded it down and tied it with rope so it couldn't flap in the wind on the drive home. I don't know if they have an actual NSN number somewhere printed on the tarp itself, but I haven't found one so far. I pulled the tarp out yesterday and tried to see exactly how much to long it is, as you can see in the pics. Thought about seeing if I could find someone to section the tarp, and bring it down to the correct size. Might also post an ad here on SS and see if I can either sell or trade it to someone with a new 2 1/2 ton correct size camo tarp.

We'll that's the where we're at so far. I've posted a few pics below. The first couple pics I took in a hotel parking lot on our way back home. The other one's showing was taken yesterday & today, but it was kinda of cloudy.

Thanks Everyone for Any Input you Have! I'm sure I'll add to this post later.
Looking forward to getting everything done and get these truck ready to drive!
:driver:
 

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OD_Animal

New member
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0
Location
Seattle, WA
Looks like youve caught yourself a keeper. A real beaut! Look forward to seeing future posts on modifications and improvements!

PS: try not to stare at any goats during operation or maintenance, they will distract you and then steal your tools
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
M36 cargo cover, long bed deuce.

Yeah I meant to add the M36 after the 5 ton in my OP. I knew it was one of the two, but I wasn't sure if the 5 ton was wider or not. Thanks for the Clarification on what it fits!

It is of no use to you or anyone, I'll takecare of it for you, just send it to me.

Sure, I'll send this Cover to you....
...So long as you have a new 2 1/2 Ton Camo Cover to send me back :D
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Looks like youve caught yourself a keeper. A real beaut! Look forward to seeing future posts on modifications and improvements!

Yeah it's not a bad truck, just needs some maintenance to get it back up to level. I'll try to make updated posts as we go along.


PS: try not to stare at any goats during operation or maintenance, they will distract you and then steal your tools
Yeah, never saw that movie... but I do remember the title... just because I thought it sounded pretty dumb.
 

Speedwoble

Well-known member
606
301
63
Location
New Holland, PA

Yesterday, we began to look and see what the problem was. It looks like there is only about 1/8" of pad left of the shoes, and the don't seem to be sitting on the drum correctly. Also not sure how much movement that the cable should have, but when you pull and release the parking brake, the cable moves very little, even when I turned the adjustment on the brake handle. We're thinking about replacing the cable, shoes, and springs. I have found a couple site that carry them, looks like Saturn Surplus has the best price on a set of shoes for $72.50. Eriks Surplus has the best price on a cable at $62.00 and around $7-$8 each for the Parking Brake Return Spring, Stabilizer "Mustache" Spring, and Outer Shoe Spring. Looking at the TM, I think this is all the parts I will need to rebuild the Parking Brake, but not 100% sure.
The brake shoes you can get re-lined at truck repair shops. Mine were $45 and one day wait. The brake cable I disconnected both ends, pumped a bunch of grease in the grease fitting and started working it back and forth. That didn't get it 100% free, so I hooked a drill on the end and gently spun it (in the direction that tightens the cable weave, not loosens) as I sprayed WD-40. That got it loosened right up.
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
The brake shoes you can get re-lined at truck repair shops. Mine were $45 and one day wait. The brake cable I disconnected both ends, pumped a bunch of grease in the grease fitting and started working it back and forth. That didn't get it 100% free, so I hooked a drill on the end and gently spun it (in the direction that tightens the cable weave, not loosens) as I sprayed WD-40. That got it loosened right up.
We don't have any big truck shops near us here unfortunately, as that would be nice for a few things on the deuce. I know it costs a few $'s more for the entire shoe kit from saturn surplus, but it doesn't require a trip out of town. As far as the cable goes, you are probably right, it may just be stuck. But if I'm going to take all this apart and such, I'm just going to put back new and be done with it. I don't want to have it brake or etc later on, and have to re-do the job then. Plus I think the rigid casing on the cable may be cracked/broke, so it needs replaced anyway. Thanks for the idea's though!
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Hey Guys, It's Me Again...

Just thought I would post a few things that we've been doing to the deuce.

Yesterday we fabed up a replacement seal for the steering column. And yeah I know some of you might laugh, but I really didn't like the original replacement one's, and the only thing left of ours was a few pieces around the screws. So we had some 1/16 rubber roof sheeting, cut about a 7" square, and cut to fit the column. Then we took a piece of luan (very thin plywood sheeting for furniture) and cut out two sections, each section fit around half the steering column, and replaced the screws. The luan helped to keep the rubber sheet flat and in place. The rubber keeps the water and air out. Also in the engine bay, we used roofing tar and completely sealed the gap in the firewall where the steering column came through. Sorry didn't think to take pictures while we were doing it, but there is one photo below of the finished interior. Just have to paint it OD and no one will ever know :p

Going to use the same 1/16" rubber to fab up some seal/boots for the shifters, just a little differently than the steering column though. Just don't see the reason to pay $40+ for each boot. Might do that tomorrow.

Today we did a lot of cleaning. The cab was full of sand. Since I picked this truck up in new mexico, I guess the sand storms they had this past year just blew in everywhere. We spent several hours today with our air compressor just trying to blow out the engine bay and the cab. In the cab, the sand seemed like it just kept multiplying. Just when I thought I had most of it out, the air would hit some hidden spot and shoot sand everywhere again. Anyway, eventually we finally got most of the sand out. Probably will still have to clean a little more here a week or two.

We also took off the lower panel on each door and took a scraper and dug all of the sand out of the doors. It was about 1/2" - 3/4" deep. After that we used the air compressor and blew all the sand that we possible could out of the doors and mechanisms. Then sprayed WD-40 all up inside the window and door latch mechanisms. They work a whole lot better now! After a week or so, I may take some white lithium grease and do it again. That should last more long term than the WD-40.

Now onto a more serious subject and Questions:

When my brother and I went to pick up the truck. They guy told us that he disconnected the "Low Air Buzzer", as he said he didn't like the noise when he started the truck...
You know, something that is Important is usually made to be annoying to get our attention....
Well before we left with the truck, I tried to look up under the dash for an un-pluged wire and/or the buzzer. However at the time I didn't know what the low air buzzer looked like nor did I find any un-pluged wires.
Fast forward to today, when my dad first started to blow the sand out from under the dash, a wire fell down. I had just seen what the low air buzzer "box" looked like online last night, so I started looking, and after a min I found it and plugged in the loose wire. Well we had the truck running at the time, and as soon as I plugged in the wire, the alarm began to sound, and it never stopped going off until I shut the truck off.

Knowing and seeing this now, I Thank the Heavenly Father Yahuah that we made it the 1300+ miles home Safely, with Brakes!! :shock:

Well after looking a bit we found a leak in the pipe just before the "emergency" gland hand. That shouldn't be to hard to fix, and we had been thinking of taking off the gland hand anyway (as we'll never pull a military trailer with the deuce) and replace it with a regular air-compressor chuck. Hopefully this is the Only leak, and once fixed the truck will get up to pressure, shut off the low air alarm, and allow the compressor to rest.

Now here's a Question: Should the air tanks retain pressure when the truck has sit for a day or so?

We opened the drain plugs today, and there was zero pressure, obviously due to our air leak. This was the reason why we started the truck in the first place today, to build up air pressure, so we could then drain the water from the tanks. Once we let the truck run, and then found the air alarm and all that. We shut the truck off, and opened the drain valve on the air tanks. One of which was empty of water, but the other had quite a bit of water, so we left it open until it was just air coming out. I think we need to figure out a way to add some air-oil (or something similar) to the system, or at least I would think that would be needful :confused:

Also I saw (and thought to take a pic) of the turbo today. There is a small amount of oil leaking out. If someone has some knowledge on this, please take a look at the pic below. I know a photo is kind of hard to tell much, but I'm wondering if this is a real problem, or nothing to worry about.

What exactly was the bracket above the spare tire used for? I didn't see any use for it, so we removed it today. I think I'm going to build a small storage box there.

Thanks Everyone for any comments or input you may have!



 

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joshs1ofakindxj

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Bracket above the tire is for pioneer tools: axe, shovel, pick.

I removed mine, put the spare tire in the bed, and I'm working on mounting a 2nd fuel tank right now.

I also have an M36A2 cargo cover, and I found a boat cover shop that shortened it to M35A2 length (14 ft) for $43! With the left over piece I'm making a soft top for my jeep.

I hope you're wearing a respirator or filter mask when blowing that sound around. Silica in your lungs is a VERY bad thing.

Sounds like you should of took some more tools along for your recovery, like the air gauge deal, but I was just about as unprepared on my first recovery.
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Bracket above the tire is for pioneer tools: axe, shovel, pick.

I removed mine, put the spare tire in the bed, and I'm working on mounting a 2nd fuel tank right now.
Now I know what that whatch-a-ma-call-it bracket was for :D Thanks!
Good idea of putting a 2nd fuel tank there. I'm thinking of mounting one in the bed, along with a 2nd spare tire... if I find another deuce rim somewhere.

I also have an M36A2 cargo cover, and I found a boat cover shop that shortened it to M35A2 length (14 ft) for $43! With the left over piece I'm making a soft top for my jeep.
Thats not a bad price! Might have to call around here and see if I can find someone to do the same. Question: The bed is only 12ft long isn't it? Or is that just the inside measurement.... I'll have to pull out the measuring tape tomorrow. Also, have you had any leaks??

I hope you're wearing a respirator or filter mask when blowing that sound around. Silica in your lungs is a VERY bad thing.
:oops: nope... got in a hurry I guess. But I was outside and was mostly blowing the sand out the opposite door.

Sounds like you should of took some more tools along for your recovery, like the air gauge deal, but I was just about as unprepared on my first recovery.
Believe me, if I had more room (and weight limit) in my luggage that we took on the train out to NM, I would have brought a lot more supplies with me.

Thanks for the reply and the Tip on the Bed Cover! [thumbzup][thumbzup][thumbzup]
 
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joshs1ofakindxj

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SW PA
Thats not a bad price! Might have to call around here and see if I can find someone to do the same. Question: The bed is only 12ft long isn't it? Or is that just the inside measurement.... I'll have to pull out the measuring tape tomorrow. Also, have you had any leaks??
I haven't put the cover on since I had it shortened, but I would hope it doesn't leak since the place that does it are experts in making water tight covers for boat storage.

I have a 3 piece, older style cargo cover for my truck. One front piece, one back, and a top/sides piece. The top/sides goes bast the end of the truck to wrap around about a foot on each side, so it is 14' long. Also 14' wide to cover the top and sides so it ends up being square.

If you have a one piece cargo cover then you will have to adjust the length as needed.

Also, the took the length out of the center of the cargo cover which saved money. They didn't have to remake the end pocket with the rope in it.
 

wikallen

New member
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As far as the tires spinning on the rims and going flat. Those are tubed tires. If you are missing a valve stem and are leaking air, you have an issue with your tube inside the tire.

You do not need to remove a glad hand to put an air chuck. You can buy an air hose with a glad hand end, and you can also put an air chuck on the line under the glove box in the cab. There is a lice little valve there as well. Just take off the cap, add a chuck.

You really do not need a second, or even any spare tire with basically no load in the truck. You have 4 spares already on the rear axles.
 

wikallen

New member
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3
0
Location
IA
As far as the tires spinning on the rims and going flat. Those are tubed tires. If you are missing a valve stem and are leaking air, you have an issue with your tube inside the tire.

You do not need to remove a glad hand to put an air chuck. You can buy an air hose with a glad hand end, and you can also put an air chuck on the line under the glove box in the cab. There is a lice little valve there as well. Just take off the cap, add a chuck.

You really do not need a second, or even any spare tire with basically no load in the truck. You have 4 spares already on the rear axles.
 

joshs1ofakindxj

Active member
738
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Location
SW PA
I put an air chuck on the valve under the passenger side of the dash as discussed above and I have an air chuck in a "T" fitting I installed on the passenger side glad hand pipe.

I would suggest keeping the glad hands. You never know when you're going to drag home an M105A2 on a whim when you find one for $400 on craigslist like I did last week.
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
I haven't put the cover on since I had it shortened, but I would hope it doesn't leak since the place that does it are experts in making water tight covers for boat storage.

I have a 3 piece, older style cargo cover for my truck. One front piece, one back, and a top/sides piece. The top/sides goes bast the end of the truck to wrap around about a foot on each side, so it is 14' long. Also 14' wide to cover the top and sides so it ends up being square.

If you have a one piece cargo cover then you will have to adjust the length as needed.

Also, the took the length out of the center of the cargo cover which saved money. They didn't have to remake the end pocket with the rope in it.
Yeah, you're right. It should be water proof as that is their business isn't it.
I think we're going to do the same thing, look for a boat cover shop and see if they can section ours to length. And yes, ours is a one piece cover. And you're right about just having them to take out a section and then re-attach the end, that way they don't have to re-make the end. Should be much easier/quicker/cheaper. When I find someone, I think I'll just take it to them on the truck, that way they can measure it and such to get the right fit. I'm sure they are used to doing the same for custom boat covers anyway.
Thanks Again!
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
As far as the tires spinning on the rims and going flat. Those are tubed tires. If you are missing a valve stem and are leaking air, you have an issue with your tube inside the tire.

Yeah I know they're tube tires, and that was the only one that kept going flat on the recovery trip home. It was sometime during the last 150 miles that the tire valve disappeared, probably pulled inside the rim if I had to guess. I'm going to get two new tires for the front anyway, and I'm going to switch one of those current front tires to replace that one.

You do not need to remove a glad hand to put an air chuck. You can buy an air hose with a glad hand end, and you can also put an air chuck on the line under the glove box in the cab. There is a lice little valve there as well. Just take off the cap, add a chuck.
Yeah I've seen the hose with the glad hand. But I have plenty of standard air lines, and the regular air chuck is faster to connect/disconnect for me. I'm keeping the gland hand, and if I need it, all I have to do is just disconnect the air-chuck and re-attach the gland hand. Just takes a minuet or two with a wrench.

You really do not need a second, or even any spare tire with basically no load in the truck. You have 4 spares already on the rear axles.
I don't currently have a load in the truck, but I will be using this truck for working purposes, which includes hauling stuff in the bed. Not saying I'm going to be carrying anything that will even come near its "off road" capacity, but I do need it to be reliable. Plus I will also be pulling civy trailers as well.

Thanks!
 

Bob H

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,142
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Location
Huron National Forest, Michigan USA
2 things come to mind here.

1. get the -10 operators manual & read it. (Your questions & statements indicate that you have not done so)

2. I have seen std cargo covers in the $200-$300 range, how much you think someone is going to charge to screw with that big heavy cover?
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
I put an air chuck on the valve under the passenger side of the dash as discussed above
That's true, we were actually just working on it today as the valve was froze up and wouldn't turn. So I took it off, cleaned it out, and soaked it in WD-40, and clamped it in a vise and finally got it to turn with a pair of pliers. After working it a bit, it opens and closes by hand now, but its still pretty stiff. I'm going to be installing a heater under the dash soon , so I'm going to go ahead and re-plumb the air line there and bring it on around and out to the front and add an air chuck. I may also just replace that shut off valve with a new regular type air valve that's easier to turn than this one.

and I have an air chuck in a "T" fitting I installed on the passenger side glad hand pipe.

I would suggest keeping the glad hands. You never know when you're going to drag home an M105A2 on a whim when you find one for $400 on craigslist like I did last week.
Not a bad idea with the "T" fitting on the rear. I wouldn't mind something like that. And I did keep the glad hand, we put it inside the truck in the "under the seat parts box" just in case. All it would take in a minuet or two with a wrench to take off the air chuck and re-install the glad hand if the need ever arose. Haven't got the air chucks installed yet, but we did fix the air leak that was caused by loose fittings before the glad hand.

Thanks for the reply!
 
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