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Outer Axle Seal Key-piece Shearing Off

JDToumanian

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Hi Group,
I just ruined three brand new outer seals for my rear axle. I am trying to adjust the wheel bearings, per the TM which says to tighten the adjusting nut while rotating the wheel until the wheel's rotation starts to bind, then back off 1/8 turn. The outer seal's key-piece is shearing off allowing the outer seal to turn with the adjusting nut and leaving the little key-piece behind in the axle's keyway. This is happening pretty early on in the tightening process, maybe at about 50 lb. ft., it's not like I was leaning on the wrench.

At first I thought it was because of the cork insert being a bit too big or something, but I proved that not to be the case after the second seal sheared. There are no burrs or damage to the bearing's inner race or adjusting nuts.

I have adjusted the bearings before, always using new seals when I take things apart, and I didn't have any trouble at all... The previous set of seals was from Memphis Equipment, these are not (These are "New Star", I believe), so I suspect poor quality as the cause... But there must be dozens of deuce owners here that are using New Star parts and a search of the archives with no results tells me I'm the only one having this problem.

What should I do differently? I thought about adjusting the bearing without the seal in place, then carefully removing the nut and adding the seal but I have my doubts it would make a difference. If crappy parts are to blame I don't want them in there anyway. I hate Chinese crap. I was going to call Memphis but decided to post since it's too late to order today.

Regards,
Jon
 

rmgill

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Are you sure you have the washers in the right place? Try a dab of grease on the inside of the seal's face to keep it from binding.
 

jasonjc

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I've used new star seals with no proplems. on 2-3 trucks now and never had any thing like you said happen.can you post a pic maybe we can se some thing you are missing maybe.?.?.
 

FMJ

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Are there any burrs on the nut that are digging into the face of the seal and making it turn with the nut?

One of the trucks I got from Santa Fe looked like they used a chisel and hammer to loosen the wheel bearing nuts.
 

bottleworks

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The brand of the seal has nothing to do with your problem. Something else is wrong. Post good pictures of the hub parts and what order you are trying to install them in. And a picture of the spindle.
 

gringeltaube

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Jon, I'm sure you know this but..... all you want to achieve by first tightening the inner nut while turning the hub is to get the bearings correctly seated on their races. That doesn't take that much torque! Never as much as to shear that little tab. It depends a lot on how worn spindle and nuts are but actually in most cases after backing off the required amount (1 - 2 flats) that nut stays only finger tight and you could even feel some play btw. hub and spindle!
Than comes the keyed washer and the outer (counter)nut which is the one that really holds everything together and needs to be torqued real tight (socket + 2 ft pry bar + all your arms and hands can do!)
If we did everything right the hub/wheel will turn with just a little effort to overcome the drag of the seals but with no play at all!
Ahh..., and bending one tab to lock the outer nut is just for additional safety!

Keep trying and let us know!

G.
 

FMJ

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Re: RE: Outer Axle Seal Key-piece Shearing Off

cbvet said:
FYI FMJ,
Chisel & hammer fit any size nut!
And it's a commonly used method.
Eric
CBVET
Thanks, I'm aware of that, was trying to make the point that if the nut is deformed/has sharp edges , it could be grabbing the seal and twisting it.

I hate deformed nuts.

And I did this exact repair/PM on one of my Deuces this last weekend, I have holes in my fingers from the sharp edges on my nuts........I mean, the wheel bearing nuts.
 

gringeltaube

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Re: RE: Outer Axle Seal Key-piece Shearing Off

FMJ said:
One of the trucks I got from Santa Fe looked like they used a chisel and hammer to loosen the wheel bearing nuts.
Just one truck? You lucky guy! Here the military NEVER used a socket for those nuts!!!! :x
 

FMJ

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Re: RE: Outer Axle Seal Key-piece Shearing Off

gringeltaube said:
FMJ said:
One of the trucks I got from Santa Fe looked like they used a chisel and hammer to loosen the wheel bearing nuts.
Just one truck? You lucky guy! Here the military NEVER used a socket for those nuts!!!! :x
Working my way through the 4 Deuces I bought in Santa Fe....
 

JDToumanian

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Thanks for the feedback, guys...

Here's some pics - The first shows a ruined seal still in place behind the adjusting nut. The second shows the keyway after the adjusting nut is removed, and you can see the sheared off key tab in the slot.

As you can see the spindle, keyway, threads, etc. are in perfect condition. The nuts have no burrs or nicks anywhere and can be screwed on easily by hand.

There are different bearing adjusting instructions, depending on which TM you look at - some say tighten the adjusting nut to 50 lb. ft. and other TMs say tighten until the wheel's rotation starts to bind - before backing off.

I suppose Gerhard is right, I am tightening too much... But this isn't the first time I've done this. I'm doing the same thing I've always done, and re-using the same bearings which slide right on without binding. The seal is the only thing different, so I suspect Chinese garbage. I'll order my new Made in USA seals from Memphis (with a few extras just in case!) and try again in a few days.

Jon
 

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sermis

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Where is the second nut? Unless I am missing something I only see the inner nut and key washer. Looks like the washer is next to the seal. NO NO
Seal, nut, key washer, nut.

I have sheered the key when tighten the outer nut down and washer and inner nut spin.
 

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m-35tom

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well it looks to me like everything is in the right place. 50 ft lbs is way too much, you just want to seat the bearings, the weight of my breaker bar is enough to do it.
 

jasonjc

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The TM says to tighten inner nut to 50 lb-ft then back off nut 1/16-1/4 trun per TM 9-2320-361-24-1 dated August 2006 and TM 9-2320-361-20 dated oct 1991
 

JDToumanian

Active member
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m-35tom wrote:
well it looks to me like everything is in the right place. 50 ft lbs is way too much, you just want to seat the bearings, the weight of my breaker bar is enough to do it.
Thanks Guys! I'll get it right next time. I probably went over 50 lb. ft. because I was trying to "make the wheel's rotation bind".

Sermis - I didn't bother to put the lock tab washer and outer nut on, since I knew I had ruined the seal, but otherwise it's assembled correctly. It's clear now that I just need to go easier with the breaker bar.

Thanks again everyone. I was pretty ticked off by my lack of progress today - In fact, I made negative progress - but I feel better now and I'm looking forward to having another go at it.

Regards,
Jon
 
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