rickf, I didn't initially plan to replace the spindle bearing- I was just trying to find the erratic noise that seemed to be coming from the front wheel. I anticipated a wheel bearing replacement or a lock-out replacement. I bought both and got the wheel bearings in and buttoned up before realizing that the spindle bearing warranted replacing while I was at it. So I bought the spindle bearing kit and replace all the parts on the passenger side, then reopened the driver side today to add the spindle bearing and seals. It went like this: I took pics but I can't find my camera just now. I'll try to upload them tomorrow.
Next, pull the rotor off. Either dig out the outside wheel bearing, or give a pull on the rotor and it will come with the rotor off the spindle. I put the outside bearing on a clean paper towel so I can compare it to the new set before attempting to install it. Since I was replacing all bearings now, I turned the rotor lug-side-up onto the tire rim- centered. I used my 4 way lug wrench as a drift through the top of the rotor hub, catching the inside bearing and inner seal, it was out with a couple of smart whacks from a ball peen hammer. HINT: I packed all the wheel bearings as they had the same number, before I started. As soon as I cleaned the rotor out I replaced the bearings and inner seal (open side is installed outboard) and covered the works with a towel. Set aside.
The caliper bracket, no doubt, has all kinds of dirt on it, especially around the nuts that hold the spindle on. Shoot it with brake cleaner to make room for the wrench. Mark the top of the caliper bracket so the install goes smoother. A 9/16" wrench seemed too loose, so I went with the 14mm on a long extension to clear the spindle. Use a breaker bar, then ratchet them off.
Matchmark the top of the spindle base with the axle housing so they go together like they came off. The spindle will have a powerful affinity to the axle housing so a rubber mallet will help persuade them to part. Pull the spindle free. The spindle bearing is recessed into the spindle about 3/8"-1/2" NOT ALL THE WAY IN! If you drive the new one in too far the needle bearings will bind where the spindle necks down.
The old bearing has to come out. A good bearing/race puller will do the job; but it will set you back a big chunk for a good one. A crappy one won't be much help. I don't own either. First I tapped the outboard edge of the bearing with a screwdriver to warp the bearing. All the bearings were easily dug out and discarded. I used my four way tire wrench to knock the bearing out a little at a time (6-7 smart raps). I placed the largest end that fit down the throat of the spindle and caught the inboard edge of the now empty bearing case. Because the lug wrench head flares out from the shaft, it was easier than any straight drift I could find- TRY IT- it did no harm to the inner surface of the spindle, as they never touched! I stacked two of the smallest rings in my bearing set kit from Harbor Freight to seat the new bearing. The smaller first ring followed the bearing in, the second one stopped the bearing about 3/8" in. Grease up the bearing. Done.
The seals on the spindle will need replacing before all is reassembled. Using a pick, dig them off the base of the spindle- note their orientation. One flat seal stays in place unless your kit includes it. Clean the area and replace the seals.
Install the spindle using the matchmarks- if you pulled the axle out a ways to change the seals, push it back in. The spindle should be rapped into place with a rubber mallet to seat it- don't rely on the nuts to seat the spindle in case it is hung up some how. Slip the caliper bracket over the lugs, minding the mark you made during removal. install the nuts and tighten to 65 lbs.
The rotor is ready. Slip it on. I found it to be a tight fit that required some massaging to seat. I found a few slight taps with the rubber mallet did the trick. Once you get seated HOLD IT THERE. Push the outer wheel bearing on the spindle and work it back until it is an inch or so onto the threaded portion of the spindle.
The Adjusting nut goes on next- it's the one with the locking pin that faces outboard. Push it onto the spindle and start it with your fingers. Work it as far back as you can to save time with the heavy socket wrench.
A helper now is handy; but you can do this yourself. Use the 4 prong hub socket to tighten the nut near snug. Set the socket on a torque Wrench set to 50 lbs. Give the rotor a spin and try to keep it moving while you torque the nut to 50lbs. Then loosen the nut and repeat three or four times; each to 50 lbs. Loosen the last one and reset the wrench to 35 lbs. No need to spin the rotor. Just tighten to 35Lbs and then loosen 3/8ths of a turn. Note the position of the locking pin in relation to the flat spot on the top of the spindle. Install the ring with the holes using the flat tang on the spindle to guide it back against the Adjusting Nut. Use a pick to turn the Adjusting nut a fraction either way to the nearest hole. The two should be flat against each other and the pin should be visible in one of the holes. -Don't go on until you get this right.
Adjust the Torque Wrench to 160lbs and make room to use some muscle. The Locking Nut goes on next. Spin it in against the ring with the tang, careful not to knock it off the pin. Holding the head of the wrench tight to the nut apply 160 lb of torque.
For those of you that may have pulled the illusive *spacer ring and *snap ring off during disassembly, put these back on, spacer first, tight against the Locking Nut. The hub body is installed next. Remember to push the spring-loaded ring in to seat the body in the hub tube. The large snap ring is installed next into a recess in the tube to keep the hub body from slipping out. If it fits, seating fully, you're good. If the hub body is in the way *these parts need to be removed. Try removing just the spacer, leaving the snap ring in place. When you can install the large snap ring into the tube with confidence, all that is left is the last outside snap ring that goes in the last groove of the axle spline. On the stock lock-outs, you install the snap ring, and the lock-out with 6-25 TORX screws and you're done.
I installed a set of WARN Manual lock-outs/hub body.
Test your work: Put both front wheels in LOCK. The wheel you are working on should be up on a jack. Rotate the rotor. The driveline from the front axle should be turning. Now FREE the raised wheel's hub. Rotate the rotor- turning it first one way then the other. The drive line way begin to tun; but when you reverse directions, you will hear the axle unlock and the driveline will not move.
Get the tools you need ready, grease your bearing, have all the parts you need handy. Order the kit when possible, verifying all parts as you are removing them so maybe a runner can correct any wrong parts ordered before you get to reinstalling them. This job was not difficult. It didn't even take that much time once all parts were onsite. Good luck.
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