• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Overland Class A RV - MTV AUSSY Interior

coachgeo

Well-known member
5,146
3,461
113
Location
North of Cincy OH
Coach, what APP are you referring to? Im interested in that... ...
saw them mentioned on Expedition Portal then searched them more directly. Just filed the concept away in my poor memory after that to explore later when I get closer to needing one. Figured the apps would improve some by time I get to it, thus no need to jot down specific apps cause better ones may have taken over by time Im at it.

did you build a HAB? I saw your post on the EXPED site
Been doing mostly driveline stuff for only a few hours on Saturdays so slow pace. Thus nothing with turning Ambo box into habitat been done. Been buying stuff when see it at good price for later install though...... and giving me lot of time for plan formulation so not complaining. (mostly cause it would not help anyway)
 
Last edited:

Gunny 0369

Marine Gunnery Sergeant
Steel Soldiers Supporter
283
638
93
Location
North Carolina
here are the valves I used-

AIr regulator.pngair regulator exploded.pngair valve electric.pngIMG_7067.jpgIMG_7069.jpg


:recovry4x4: ALways use DOT fittings and lines, not the cheap Harbor freight/ lowes fittings lines. If NAPA doesn't have them, they will order them for you.


Gunny,could you take a photo of your tire air control . Trying to workout how I will do mine. Thanks
 
Last edited:

Gunny 0369

Marine Gunnery Sergeant
Steel Soldiers Supporter
283
638
93
Location
North Carolina
Most of it is hidden. Here is the down and dirty....
Remove the old CTIS components, throw them into the sea, then smile.
-under the Passenger side dash, plumb DOT air lines, with DOT fittings (3 lines only)
- install the electric solenoids behind kick panel, feeding power from a key SWITCHED hot lead.. run the wires to switches mounted anywhere on your dash.
( I located them right under the air brake manifolds, inside the heater box) Its TIGHT in there...
- disassemble air regulator, and prepare it for the incoming lines, feed and dump... see pic.
- run the air lines through a (drilled hole in the heater box) and protect air line with rubber grommet, terminate them at the Air regulator.
- Install the air regulator, (pic) and locate needle gauge anywhere you want with an air 1/4 extension hose

over all system is simple to use, just remember the dumb valves open up under (12lb?) of pressure, so dont dump massive amounts of air to the valves, or they might get stuck open...
however, Ive noticed so far after 8 months of use, the big air blow-by back and forth, seems to keep the valves free of debris, and hasn't leaked down yet.
Imagine walking away for 2 months, and having the tires not deflate....

here are the valves I used-

View attachment 750065View attachment 750064View attachment 750066View attachment 750067View attachment 750068








Gunny,could you take a photo of your tire air control . Trying to workout how I will do mine. Thanks
 

1951M1078

Well-known member
1,018
185
63
Location
Glendale,AZ
Thanks,Gunny.

My plan is to use 2 of the toggle controls and not have the electric stuff. A little more expensive but ?

cddd078af41338ef2e1f136133b8614d3c0cd8de-900.jpg

Part # GTV-2-P12

It uses 3/8" PQ fittings.
 

Gunny 0369

Marine Gunnery Sergeant
Steel Soldiers Supporter
283
638
93
Location
North Carolina
moneies never an option! nice valves.
i did the remote electrics, because of the super tight spacing behind the reddot heater unit box.... open it up, youll see what you have to deal with., it gets tIgHt in thar.





Thanks,Gunny.

My plan is to use 2 of the toggle controls and not have the electric stuff. A little more expensive but ?

View attachment 750075

Part # GTV-2-P12

It uses 3/8" PQ fittings.
 

coachgeo

Well-known member
5,146
3,461
113
Location
North of Cincy OH
Coach, what APP are you referring to?
Im interested in that... Im using hand held walkies to comm with the back mansion now, but there too cumbersome, and headset attachments have dead spots and delays.......
looked into it again. So far looks like for our purposes this one is best cause it is reported that
article said:
It doesn’t need an internet connection; it uses your phone’s wireless technologies to transmit to other users. So you can chat with people on the same Wi-Fi network, or make a direct ad-hoc connection via the Wi-Fi radios in your phones. Or if you’re especially close, you can even use Bluetooth.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.androidintercom

here is article .... it is number 4
https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/best-walkie-talkie-app/
 

Toobatheviking

New member
1
0
1
Location
Osan
Love the head gear !

Where can I get some and what do I ask for ? Have head sets now but that would be fun.
Look up aircraft intercoms, I checked into a VIC-3 system with headsets and was mind blown at how expensive it was. The aircraft intercoms were way cheaper because there's a much higher demand so it drives down price through competition.
 

aleigh

Well-known member
1,040
52
48
Location
Phoenix, AZ & Seattle, WA
I don't mean to bash the aircraft intercom idea, it's a good idea, I started that way years ago with Sigtronics, but there are some things to consider. The aircraft systems are generally VOX for the intercom and PTT for the radio, because this is how we do it when we fly. This works well as long as there are separate VOX processors for each station but the portables generally only have a single VOX circuit. The practical problem here is that never quite works out because in the real world someone usually has more gain than someone else, so, either, someone holds the VOX open and you hear the ambient noise through their mic, or, you turn the VOX down to cut them out but then the quiet station does not trip the VOX. The mic amps, if any, tend to suck on the portables as well.

On the other end of things in the planes I fly we have the Garmin GMA 345 typically. That thing does work very well, super nice in fact, but it has discrete VOX for the pilot and co-pilot stations, a ton of digital audio level processing, and at $1700 and the good noise cancelling headsets like my DC runs a grand, now the VIC-3 looks like the economy, and with the VIC-3 you will pickup PTT for the intercom and side-step the problem entirely. VOX is available but at the headset level. It's also (arguably) a little easier to integrate the VIC-3 with radios, and you have more than just two COM paths. The VIC-3 also opens the door for using the handphone sets which can be handy. I usually leave a handphone on an extra station in my LMTV so at the side of the road I can just pick it up and use the radio. You can also put an intercom station in the back bed of a truck and talk to passengers. The LMTV being so loud that this stuff does, in fact, all matter.

Are there good aircraft portables or cheap & good audio panels, maybe, just if there are make sure you get one of those and not something that will cause disappointment. The Sigtronics weren't very rugged either, and had poor power line noise rejection.
 

Gunny 0369

Marine Gunnery Sergeant
Steel Soldiers Supporter
283
638
93
Location
North Carolina
I don't mean to bash the aircraft intercom idea, it's a good idea, I started that way years ago with Sigtronics, but there are some things to consider. The aircraft systems are generally VOX for the intercom and PTT for the radio, because this is how we do it when we fly. This works well as long as there are separate VOX processors for each station but the portables generally only have a single VOX circuit. The practical problem here is that never quite works out because in the real world someone usually has more gain than someone else, so, either, someone holds the VOX open and you hear the ambient noise through their mic, or, you turn the VOX down to cut them out but then the quiet station does not trip the VOX. The mic amps, if any, tend to suck on the portables as well.

On the other end of things in the planes I fly we have the Garmin GMA 345 typically. That thing does work very well, super nice in fact, but it has discrete VOX for the pilot and co-pilot stations, a ton of digital audio level processing, and at $1700 and the good noise cancelling headsets like my DC runs a grand, now the VIC-3 looks like the economy, and with the VIC-3 you will pickup PTT for the intercom and side-step the problem entirely. VOX is available but at the headset level. It's also (arguably) a little easier to integrate the VIC-3 with radios, and you have more than just two COM paths. The VIC-3 also opens the door for using the handphone sets which can be handy. I usually leave a handphone on an extra station in my LMTV so at the side of the road I can just pick it up and use the radio. You can also put an intercom station in the back bed of a truck and talk to passengers. The LMTV being so loud that this stuff does, in fact, all matter.

Are there good aircraft portables or cheap & good audio panels, maybe, just if there are make sure you get one of those and not something that will cause disappointment. The Sigtronics weren't very rugged either, and had poor power line noise rejection.
good info.
Figured somthing out too..
we insulated the cab so well, I can carry on a conversation comfortably with the passenger,
And for the HAB, cameras with audio...
I just listen for the screaming.
Then look to see if its really important or if their really sinking back there.
:)
 

Attachments

Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks