Overspeed sensor ? MEP 803

[Denvercaitland]

Finally getting around to work on getting generator started ( Canadian DND set). Notice the wire was cut. Read most of the threads and TM .but cant quite figure out what the sensor is for, any input would be appreciated.

 

[kloppk]

That's the magnetic pickup. It's part of the Field Flash & Starter cutout system.
When the MPU along with S14 determine the engine RPM is greater than 900 RPM it cuts out the starter and enables flashing of the gen head.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Exactly what Kurt said. You can either solder the wire back together, or just buy a new speed sensor. About $50-80.

 

[Denvercaitland]

Much appreciated guys, just curious would/should the mep start and ru with this wire cut off?

 

[kloppk]

Update - See Guyfangs reply below

 

[Guyfang]

No. It should not start. And before you try and solder the wire, better is to pull the MPU. You should pull it. Clean it. Check it. AND then, if its good, fix it. Or buy a new one. THEN reinstall it correctly, so you set will start and run. And not grind off the end of the MPU.

 

[Denvercaitland]

Thanks Guyfang, will follow the step as you suggest.

 

[Light in the Dark]

I wonder how one 'Canadianize's a generator head?

 

[Scoobyshep]

I wonder how one 'Canadianize's a generator head?

Its like the Canadian wheels on south park, square.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

 

[Denvercaitland]

Not quite South Park. . As explained to me by “daybreak” the canadianized nomination is likely associated to the addition of the article heather option

 

[dav5]

Its like the Canadian wheels on south park, square.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Having spent my youth in Kapuskasing, Ontario Canada I can attest that square wheels were a reality for the first mile after start up at -40 .

 

[Denvercaitland]

Evening, slowly working at getting the 803 running. Read TM and post. I understand CR1 play a role but not sure exactly what. Just noticed that CR1 was replaced at one point by a Tech. And notes he made.

 

[kloppk]

24 volt DC power for most of the 24 volt circuits in the set all flow they CR1. If CR1 goes bad you lose all 24 volt power to the panel, relays, start switch and much more.
Failure of CR1 is kind of common. I suspect it's a bit under sized for everything it has to power.
Just had a customers CR1 die last weekend taking his 802 down.
For those that have CR1 die I'd suggest replacing it with a pair of 1N5406 diodes in parallel.
Wow, they did a crappy job soldering the new CR1 in

 

[Denvercaitland]

24 volt DC power for most of the 24 volt circuits in the set all flow they CR1. If CR1 goes bad you lose all 24 volt power to the panel, relays, start switch and much more.
Failure of CR1 is kind of common. I suspect it's a bit under sized for everything it has to power.
Just had a customers CR1 die last weekend taking his 802 down.
For those that have CR1 die I'd suggest replacing it with a pair of 1N5406 diodes in parallel.
Wow, they did a crappy job soldering the new CR1 in

K I have full power to panel ,etc. Thanks for the reply

 

[Guyfang]

Yes, crappy job. Extreme, care is needed to unsolder and resolder anything on this panel. The standoffs have a tendency to break when too much heat is applied to the solder conections on this panel.

 

[Denvercaitland]

Hoping to get it started soonest . Went through most topics on forum and TMs. All filters changed, new fluids, fuse mod done , fuel tank cleaned From marking on various parts looks like service done at 1810hrs. And then was hit by , I assume , a truck with a high bumper. Looks like sheet metal damage only, no vital organs touched. working on cutting ,banging back in place ,cleaning it. Generator will be in a weather proof enclosure. So not to concerned about look.

 

[Guyfang]

Its not about looks. Its about running temperature. The box is designed to keep the gen set warm when it needs to be, and cool when it needs to be.

 

[Denvercaitland]

Its not about looks. Its about running temperature. The box is designed to keep the gen set warm when it needs to be, and cool when it needs to be.

Thanks Guyfang, Good point. Did not consider. I can fix the "box" itself as their is no damage anywhere else , the only part I'll need to fab is the door on the starter side of the engine ( missing at the time I got the gen set) . The main damage is to the shroud aft of the radiator. Will impact the air flow - ie , straight out as opposed to upwards- but no impact inside box. Am I correct?

 

[cbisson]

Thanks Guyfang, Good point. Did not consider. I can fix the "box" itself as their is no damage anywhere else , the only part I'll need to fab is the door on the starter side of the engine ( missing at the time I got the gen set) . The main damage is to the shroud aft of the radiator. Will impact the air flow - ie , straight out as opposed to upwards- but no impact inside box. Am I correct?

You may already be aware, but member Light in the Dark has replacement doors.

 

[Guyfang]

Thanks Guyfang, Good point. Did not consider. I can fix the "box" itself as their is no damage anywhere else , the only part I'll need to fab is the door on the starter side of the engine ( missing at the time I got the gen set) . The main damage is to the shroud aft of the radiator. Will impact the air flow - ie , straight out as opposed to upwards- but no impact inside box. Am I correct?

Should be OK. Need to keep an eye on the eng temp.

Cbisson beat me to the draw. LITD makes a real fine door. To the mm spec.