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Ownership Costs - Reality

prenger745

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Ottawa, KS
Hello (again),

I started looking at getting a 5 ton about a year ago. And for this reason and that, I never pulled the trigger. Now, I need help convincing my better-half that this would be a good buy for us. I have a few general questions and comments on my situation and wanted to hear everyone's opinions.


Let me start with a few things about myself.

1) I am not a mechanic. However, I ENJOY fixing my own vehicles. I have experience with, what I would call, general repair. Replace alternator, starter, water-pump, master-cylinder, etc. Nothing too difficult. That does't mean I wouldn't embrace a challenge. I feel semi-comfortable with a challenge because my neighbor is a retired mechanic of 30 years and would probably bail me out in a disaster.

2) I think I have above average trouble-shooting skills whether with a vehicle, computer, HVAC etc.

3) I see this as a mixture of a hobby and "real-life". By that I mean, I would love to drive it to work daily. I have a 5 mile commute each way so I think this is feasible. Correct me if I am wrong. I have also been told by my 10 year-old son that I WILL be picking him up from school in it, from time to time. That is a 15 mile drive.

A few questions:

1) How reliable are these things? I know this is relative to the condition it starts in but in my mind these things were built to withstand anything thrown at it.

2) Regarding condition, what would one expect to spend on a decent one? I have seen ones on CL that say excellent running condition for around 5-8K

3) How difficult are they to work on? Again, in my mind these would have been built to be serviceable in the field. Maybe I am way off?

4) I don't want to BOB it or anything but I would love for it to be able to pull a camper. Is this something that would be relatively easy? ** This is my best argument for getting one. She wants a full-size camper. Not a behemoth but not a pop-up either. Right now, we have a pop-up because our mini-van can tow it. We generally camp 30 miles from here but at times might like to stretch it to a few lakes 60 miles from here.


Any other thoughts, gotchas, concerns voice would be appreciated.

Danno
 

simp5782

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https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...nd-repairs-amp-how-much-will-they-set-me-back

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?90811-So-you-want-a-Mil-Truck-here-is-what-they-cost

Reliability depends on anything really. I have put close to 70,000 miles on mine for highway use. Right now I am sitting at about $4000 in repairs on it including a set of tires and 2 transmissions. This is with me doing all the work. Read the TM or use your head on certain repairs. Since you do not know air brake systems I would advise having someone else do any work on that system. Even a mechanic of 30yrs may not have ever touched air brakes. I have burned thru 11,500 gallons of fuel with only 2 filter replacements. Oil changes can be at any interval since you are not working it hard. This is around $150 for an oil change. 10k interval really. Tires can be costly since you may buy some in bad or fair condition or unexpected things can make them be bad.

Expect to spend 6500 to 10000 on one. They have gone up. and high price doesn't necessarily mean better running or in better shape. Be best to buy one from a member here atleast they have a general idea of the truck than someone off CL who just got it to impress his buddies.
 

maa45069

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I think cost is something people overlook too easily. You should set aside at least half of whatever you spend to purchase the truck for emergency parts and repairs. If you are daily driving it you want to make sure your brakes are in tip top shape. I can tell you these things have a training manual for everything and there is great support from our brothers here at Steelsoldiers. If your not afraid of getting dirty you will be fine. Now lets be real about the field fixing... parts are heavy as can be and the military has plenty of muscle to lift and assist. If you can lift parts and hold them in place you must be Hercules but you need to have a garage with proper tools, cranes and lifts than you are golden man. Don't sweat it you will not regret having the truck trust me... are you really asking if it can pull your camper? lol don't know what size camper your talking about but I doubt you will find one you cant pull...just not the fastest. Best of luck!
 

rtk

Well-known member
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You will need a CDL with air brake endorsement to operate it , unless you can get some kind of FMV plate in your state . Also check on insurance for a 5 ton , again all over the map depending on how it is REGED . I know it has been said many times but download the TM's on this site especially the Operator's Manual and the Lube Order , quick reference guide . You also know you can't have just ONE MV , they are herd animals and they like company !!!! LOL good luck , enjoy the ride :tank:
 

prenger745

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Ottawa, KS
Camper Clarification

I should have clarified, I know these trucks can probably pull any camper out there. However, how hard is it to do? For example, my mini-van, I installed a factory produced tow-hitch and then just had to buy the insert with ball that "raised" it a bit because the tow-bar is so low. Easy job, no big deal. Do the 5tons have a built in (welded) tow system with a 2" ball or will I have to put one in and lower it? I don't think a 5th wheel would ever be in the cards for me but just out of curiosity, would that be do-able? It seems like it would sit up super high.


And THANK YOU everyone for all of the thoughts and ideas that I might not have taken into consideration. Keep 'em coming.

Danno
 

simp5782

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I should have clarified, I know these trucks can probably pull any camper out there. However, how hard is it to do? For example, my mini-van, I installed a factory produced tow-hitch and then just had to buy the insert with ball that "raised" it a bit because the tow-bar is so low. Easy job, no big deal. Do the 5tons have a built in (welded) tow system with a 2" ball or will I have to put one in and lower it? I don't think a 5th wheel would ever be in the cards for me but just out of curiosity, would that be do-able? It seems like it would sit up super high.


And THANK YOU everyone for all of the thoughts and ideas that I might not have taken into consideration. Keep 'em coming.

Danno
There are threads on how to install a civilian hitch. Even a gooseneck type hitch to the back of a 5 ton.
 

98G

Former SSG
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You're 120 miles from me. Feel free to come put hands and eyes on mine.

I've got nothing to sell at the moment.

Here's a tru-ism: you're going to be into it somewhere around $10k, either upfront in a turnkey vehicle or you will be by the time you get done with it. (Give or take a bit)

What you think you may like by looking at them, may not be what you actually prefer with a little bit of hands-on comparison...
 

rtk

Well-known member
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Another thing that comes to mind , on insurance ,make sure it cover ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE for a FLAT OR BREAKDOWN TOWING IE , BIG TIRES ,VERY VERY HEAVY , Tow MV , VERY EXPENSIVE !!! They are great trucks but as with anything they come with there own issues . On the trailer issue , you do realize the MV is 24 Volts and your trailer is 12 volts , you have to figure in a converter of some sort . Of course you could always get a M934 the 5 ton expanding van and make that your camper , been done before , search it on this site . That would be cool . My last item is how are your neighbors or local zoning officials with a MV parked on your property ? I live on a farm so no problems , but if you are in a town or village it could get ugly .
 

prenger745

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Ottawa, KS
I live outside of the city limits so I don't have any issues parking it here. The long term goal would be a shed/workshop big enough to house it and tools and whatever else I accumulate in life. The insurance idea is one I wouldn't have thought of. Great idea!
 

prenger745

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98G. Where is homebase for you on weekends? Private message me if that is something you don't want out there. I know my son and I would love to get some hands on.
 

simp5782

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Another thing that comes to mind , on insurance ,make sure it cover ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE for a FLAT OR BREAKDOWN TOWING IE , BIG TIRES ,VERY VERY HEAVY , Tow MV , VERY EXPENSIVE !!! They are great trucks but as with anything they come with there own issues . On the trailer issue , you do realize the MV is 24 Volts and your trailer is 12 volts , you have to figure in a converter of some sort . Of course you could always get a M934 the 5 ton expanding van and make that your camper , been done before , search it on this site . That would be cool . My last item is how are your neighbors or local zoning officials with a MV parked on your property ? I live on a farm so no problems , but if you are in a town or village it could get ugly .
Every trailer out there can be converted to LED lights, and even then Grote and Trucklite make 24v LED stop/tail lights as well as marker lights. Converters are a thing of the past and not practical anymore. For what the converter box cost you to make you could swap dozens of LEDs in place. Then your civi truck can still power the same LED lights if you hooked up to it.

Simple fix for a civi harness connector is to splice in off your tail light harness. You would only need the little 30a converter box from "Those Military guys" to run the electric brakes on the trailer after jumping off your brake light switch.
 

MAdams

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rtk is right. A big expense for me was purchasing a bunch of replacement parts and keeping them on the truck. A tow back home can cost $1,000 and leaving the truck on the side of the road until its fixed isn't an option for me. Trying to anticipate what's gonna break is tuff
 

simp5782

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Emergency box for roadside repairs should include.
5- 3/8" to 3/8" and 1/2 to 1/2 quick push lok air connectors. For broken air lines cut and install.
5- 3/8" females and 1/2" females with compression fittings.
3ft of 3/8 and 1/2" nylon air line. This will fix 95 percent of the air line problems you run into EXCEPT the big air lines that use cotton jacket lines. About $100.

5ft of 5/16 and 3/8 fuel line.
ammo can full of various nuts and bolts. Go to tractor supply and have at it for $2.19 a pound.
5 of each - 1/8" 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" and 3/4" pipe plugs.
Heavy Tire plug kit and bottle of slime.
air hose and chuck.
Air jack
14ft of 3/8" chain and 2 lever binders for locking up an axle that has a flat tire on the rear.
JIC to JIC adapter for the fan clutch
Extra set of old belts.
Can of starting fluid
Spare fuel filter.

under $500.
 

prenger745

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Ottawa, KS
As I read more, I am getting concerned about a vehicle with air-brakes. As others have stated, even a 30 year mechanic might not understand them. Are there any of the 5 tons that DON'T have air-brakes? If not, am I then looking at 2.5s only?

Thanks,
Danno
 

simp5782

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As I read more, I am getting concerned about a vehicle with air-brakes. As others have stated, even a 30 year mechanic might not understand them. Are there any of the 5 tons that DON'T have air-brakes? If not, am I then looking at 2.5s only?

Thanks,
Danno
M939s have full air wedge brakes. M915 series trucks have S cam air brakes. All 2.5 and 5 ton LMTV/FMTV series of trucks are air brakes. M35s, M809s,M39 series trucks are air over hydraulic. Meaning they assist in braking with air. So you are out of luck for the most part.

Air brakes are not that hard to understand but it takes some time to understand the ins and outs. Especially on these trucks since on 939 series trucks they have more air lines than you have blood vessels. The p2p program can help you track down some of the culprits In a malfunctioning system as well as a general layout of what goes where. It is all in how much you are willing to learn. We all started somewhere.
 

FloridaAKM

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The only downside of air brakes is learning about them or allowing the brake shoes to rust to the drums from non-use. Also, there is no DOT-5 brake fluid to worry about, just free air. Air brakes are good!
 
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