Painted the M1009 (Behr paint)

[James Kelly]

Thanks so much ;O) Have had my M1009 about 3 weeks now and everybody here has been just super ass cool! Thanks again :O)

 

[bp m1009]

well its raining today, went out to the truck and now the paint is bubbling up in places.

 

[twlinks]

Hi Brad. That doesn't look good. Moisture got under the paint, however, I've had that happen before and once it warms up and dries out, it may go back down and not even show. Is it just in those areas or all over? If it's just those areas, you can touch it up, but not until later. I would still sit tight and let it cure out.

 

[MWMULES]

Same thing happened to me on one of the paint jobs, give it a few warm dry days to cure out and if they are still raised use a 3M sponge sander block, wipe dust off and repaint.

 

[twomorestrokes]

Bummer. Kind of shows you how latex enamel works on smooth metal surfaces. I've told this story before but I painted a car with it many years ago and a week later the temp dipped below freezing overnight and the paint froze. It peeled off in streamers on my drive to work. My next paint job on that car was oil based enamel applied with a roller.

 

[Scarecrow1]

Like the man said just give it some time and see what happens. I didn't realize it was still that cool where you painted it. You may want to try it again in the optimal 70 degree range and not with so much moister in the air. There are many trucks on here that were painted with the same paints and not had the problems you did so I feel it was the climate not the paint that was the problem.

 

[twlinks]

Bummer. Kind of shows you how latex enamel works on smooth metal surfaces. I've told this story before but I painted a car with it many years ago and a week later the temp dipped below freezing overnight and the paint froze. It peeled off in streamers on my drive to work. My next paint job on that car was oil based enamel applied with a roller.

It had nothing to do with using latex paint on metal...that is done every day...just not in "cold" weather if you want good results. Here is what the Behr paint can says: "Application"."Apply when air and surface temps are between 50-90 degrees." Furtherdown in that same paragraph it says "After 4 weeks, cured paint film maybe washed with a mild detergent".

The 4 weeks they are talking about applies to "normal" temps, not below 50 when applying and then probably freezing overnight...it just ain't gonna work.

 

[CycleJay]

BP M1009,

When you did your prep work, what type of sand paper did you use to roughen it up, so the paint would stick?

I plan on doing the same thing.. But most of the paint job on it is way too smooth to apply paint, and it stick.
So I need to roughen it up.

Thank you.

 

[5moker]

It was 70 degrees here the other day. I thinned some behr, sprayed it through my auto gun and it looked great! (Only did partcial to get the paint out of my gun after the brush guard, grill and front baumper are finished) Put it in the garage over night with 500 watt halogens around it. Next morning pulled it out, sanded it then washed it to prep for a second coat (hood). The rest is to be taped and done. I had zero problems. I am doing bumpers, grill, door handels, mirrors, and door handels black velvet semi gloss. Brush gaurd and truck flat od green. All Behr.
Oh yeah someone did a nice job on the white Before I purchased it from gov aution! no rust, no runs, easy prep!

 

[5moker]

wanted to finish before posting pics but hey, it pertainted to your situation!

 

[bp m1009]

BP M1009,

When you did your prep work, what type of sand paper did you use to roughen it up, so the paint would stick?

I plan on doing the same thing.. But most of the paint job on it is way too smooth to apply paint, and it stick.
So I need to roughen it up.

Thank you.

I used some 150 grit automotive grade sandpaper that my buddy had at his shop and used a DA to speed things up.

 

[bp m1009]

and it seems that the bubbling i posted before is working its way out of the paint, as the day went on it seemed to disappear. ill post pics tomorrow

 

[twlinks]

When you did your prep work, what type of sand paper did you use to roughen it up, so the paint would stick?

I plan on doing the same thing.. But most of the paint job on it is way too smooth to apply paint, and it stick.
So I need to roughen it up.

CJ, if it is as smooth as you say, I would simply go over it with 220 grit or even 300 or finer wet/dry sandpaper. Babybutt smooth is your friend here, not your enemy. You do need to wipe it all down with a degreaser though as well, but latex is even very forgiving on that. The latex paint will still have some texture to it even if you spray it and if you roll it, it will definitely have texture to it. So you are comfortable with that, drop the tailgate and practice on the inside of it. You have to remember that nobody is going for a 6" away appearance of a show quality high gloss paint job here...that's why we get by with $100 in paint, prep hours and the satisfaction of having done it yourself. Good luck.

 

[twomorestrokes]

I would think you'd want the surface to remain a little more rough for a latex application to adhere to since unlike automotive paints, there are no solvents present to allow the paint to penetrate the original surface. I know I've run into issues in my house where the plaster was sanded too smooth during prep and the paint cracked and peeled during temp changes in these areas. I had to go back and roughen the plaster and recoat. The surface does expand and contract.

 

[twlinks]

twomorestrokes, I assumed that anyone painting their truck would be priming it first, may have been a bad assumption on my part. As for the plaster in your house, was it primed first? If not, you would almost always have problems. Latex has elasticity to it, so the normal expansion and contraction of an paint on plaster/drywall is not going to cause the paint to crack or peel. Whenever we do new drywall, we always use a primer with pumice to give a little texture back to the mud joints as well as seal the wall like it's supposed to be before finish coats. Parts is parts but paint ain't paint...every application has to be taken into consideration. If metal is "clean" (i.e. no finger oils), dry and "primed", latex is going to stick to it.

 

[MWMULES]

I have been using house paint for years on my MV's and the best results as far as bonding go are on top of rough CARC that has been degreased and power washed. When I have repainted a truck that a Fire Dept had put a gloss automotive paint on, the bonding is not as good, seems to take forever to get a hard finish. When I get one like that I now wipe the whole thing down with scotch pad and lacquer thinner, then scuff it, wash with PSP then power wash before paint. Any rusted areas get sanded then covered with an oil based primer and given a few days to cure. Always wait till the metal and air temp are above 50 and no rain or heavy dew are forecast-ed for a week if outdoors.

 

[twlinks]

I have been using house paint for years on my MV's and the best results as far as bonding go are on top of rough CARC that has been degreased and power washed. When I have repainted a truck that a Fire Dept had put a gloss automotive paint on, the bonding is not as good, seems to take forever to get a hard finish. When I get one like that I now wipe the whole thing down with scotch pad and lacquer thinner, then scuff it, wash with PSP then power wash before paint. Any rusted areas get sanded then covered with an oil based primer and given a few days to cure. Always wait till the metal and air temp are above 50 and no rain or heavy dew are forecast-ed for a week if outdoors.

There ya go folks, excellent advice on prep!!! Paint problems are usually traced back to prep and conditions when applying in some form or another. Thanks MWMULES.

 

[twomorestrokes]

I have been using house paint for years on my MV's and the best results as far as bonding go are on top of rough CARC that has been degreased and power washed. When I have repainted a truck that a Fire Dept had put a gloss automotive paint on, the bonding is not as good, seems to take forever to get a hard finish. When I get one like that I now wipe the whole thing down with scotch pad and lacquer thinner, then scuff it, wash with PSP then power wash before paint. Any rusted areas get sanded then covered with an oil based primer and given a few days to cure. Always wait till the metal and air temp are above 50 and no rain or heavy dew are forecast-ed for a week if outdoors.

Agreed. I wouldn't want to wet sand the previous finish to a smooth texture when using house paint over it. Unlike an automotive finish, the house paint will be thick and forgiving anyway so why not leave something for it to bond to?