• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

painting my 53 REO

austinaubinoe

Member
95
10
8
Location
Potomac, Md
WOW too cool man! So this is not National guard numbers right?

EDIT: WOW just read the wiki page, part of the army AND national Guard....do the numbers usually stick with the truck during its whole lifespan?
 
Last edited:

SteveKuhn

New member
1,227
4
0
Location
Hasbrouck Heights NJ
Water Wash After Rust Treatment

The rust conversion product here is much the same as RustMort and the directions are to wipe or rinse with water. It tends to neutralize and cleanse the white powder that sometimes forms and that can bleed through the paint.

Once treated, the metal can often withstand a rain without having new rust form. That used to be on the label. I've had that but its best not to push your luck.

Degreasing should be done before the rust converter, and you should remove the loose rust before applying the converter. It probably also says to use several light applications instead of soaking it. The 24 hour wait is a very good idea. You need some but enough will remain in pits and the like to allow the oxide to form. Any bare metal will etch.

I'd choose finish paint as I said above - based on time available for primer to cure or omit the primer and use the finish DTM. If I had to work outside, I'd also decide whether to paint or not on temperature.

Painting under 50 degrees isn't a good idea and curing will take a long time. My 105 will either be blasted and shot indoors at a shop or it'll sit over winter if I have to do it by hand.

As for alkyd oxidizing faster - yeah, I believe it but how short of a time is 'faster'? Rust is virtually impossible to kill, persistant and I'll bet there will be reasons to fix and repaint far sooner than the finish of these modern products will fade.

Once again, it's all your choice in whether you want to be dunked or sprinkled.
 

austinaubinoe

Member
95
10
8
Location
Potomac, Md
GOOD POINT! Id probably want to repaint it before the paint itself broke down. I guess ill just talk to the paint pro about it, and look at the price. I did kinda soak the front part of the bed with the etch stuff. seemed to have dried fine this morning. Probably should not have painted at all today because it is pretty cold, but i couldn't help myself.
 

Attachments

MWMULES

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
In Memorial
5,580
349
83
Location
DESOTO, KANSAS
WOW too cool man! So this is not National guard numbers right?

EDIT: WOW just read the wiki page, part of the army AND national Guard....do the numbers usually stick with the truck during its whole lifespan?
Yep it most likely was a NJ guard truck, or at least the last unit that had it was. The 42ND has units in various states on the east coast.
 

SteveKuhn

New member
1,227
4
0
Location
Hasbrouck Heights NJ
I'm pretty sure that Carnac provides the last unit. See the VIN INfo thread. I traced mine back to the 10th Mtn then the 27th Bg of NYARNG via judicious use of paint remover and email w/ the NYARNG public relations dept. Sandpaper was going thru too erratically.
 

austinaubinoe

Member
95
10
8
Location
Potomac, Md
I'm pretty sure that Carnac provides the last unit. See the VIN INfo thread. I traced mine back to the 10th Mtn then the 27th Bg of NYARNG via judicious use of paint remover and email w/ the NYARNG public relations dept. Sandpaper was going thru too erratically.
Im pretty sure mine has been sandblasted as some point, paint seems pretty thin. Was very easy to reveal the serial number on the frame.

Ill certainly try to look on the rear bumperetts though. Whats the best method?


I wish you could google the serial/vin and it would tell you everything from day one, kinda like carfax. I guess im dreaming though.
 

austinaubinoe

Member
95
10
8
Location
Potomac, Md
Any input on electric paint sprayers? I have a pretty cheap paint gun that looks like this:
Titan Siphon Feed Spray Gun, Model# 19418 | Paint Spray Guns | Northern Tool + Equipment
got it on sale, but never used it. I have a 60 gal Cambell Hausfield, but its at my old garage. No place to spray paint.

So I was wondering If a 4 gal pancake compressor would work? My dad can run a nail gun off of it all day, but does not work so well for impacts, etc.

What would I need to put between the gun and the compressor? I imagine some kind of filter?
 

Scrounge41

Member
167
1
16
Location
St. Augustine, Fl
The 60 gallon would work much better with the gun you have. The pancake compressor will have a hard time keeping up and will vary your spray fan, probably giving you an uneven finish. If you are shooting an alkyd finish you would benefit from a dryer/water separator inline with your gun. I don't know what you expect your final paint job to look like, but with the labor time and material cost involved, I wouldn't attempt it with the pancake.
 

Scrounge41

Member
167
1
16
Location
St. Augustine, Fl
I didn't spend a lot of time looking at the reviews for that unit, but in general they (the reviews) seem to be pretty good and that is not a lot of money to spend. Before committing to the sprayer you might try rolling one panel or fender and see if that meets your expectations. Recognize that uneven surfaces (bolts, brackets, etc.) are going to be harder to get an even finish on without spraying.
 

austinaubinoe

Member
95
10
8
Location
Potomac, Md
Do you know If the military rolled it or sprayed it? Im purposely not stripping it down to bare metal. Im just scraping it by hand as best I can, wiping it with acetone, using phosphate etch then priming it. I still want it to look old! Im thinking now I should get all the nooks and crannies with a brush, then going back over everything with a roller.

Thanks for the input
 

SteveKuhn

New member
1,227
4
0
Location
Hasbrouck Heights NJ
Going through the site says all 3. My truck was sprayed at the factory and DRMO and brushed (sloppily) someplace at least once. Go over your truck carefully and you'll see how yours was done.

Steve
 

austinaubinoe

Member
95
10
8
Location
Potomac, Md
YES have read every post in that thread. Decided to go with the BM Alkyd semi gloss :beer:



Ive decided to paint it this summer. I feel my paint will turn out better sprayed with an air compressor, and when its warm. Also, I wont be as rushed, go back to school in PA on the 9th. '

Whats the best air filter + regulator for the money? Prefer USA made.

Milton Air Filter Regulator with Metal Bowl — 1/2in. NPT Inlet, Model# 1108 | Air Filters, Lubricators + Regulators | Northern Tool + Equipment
 

austinaubinoe

Member
95
10
8
Location
Potomac, Md
hello everybody! Back from college and im jumping into this again. the primer held up well over the winter. FINALLY got access to a power washer so I did that today. Gonna go over it again tomorrow. decided Im not really gonna touch the underbelly, just too much work. Got alot more paint off today then I did with just the scraper, plus a ton of dried up old grease.

One problem I found are 2 serious rust spots. I will post some new pictures this weekend of my progress and the trouble areas.

-Austin in Maryland


P.s. JUST REALIZED the Aberdeen meet was today and tomorrow! completely slipped my mind till today. Going to the DC 101 chili cook off tomorrow so I cant make it. Oh well Ill drive my deuce to it next year!
 

austinaubinoe

Member
95
10
8
Location
Potomac, Md
Pictures!!

Power washed the thing twice. It was raining today so what else was I gonna do!

Alot more paint came off then with the scrapper. Like I said before not looking for a smooth paint job, looking for an authentic paint job! Non of the primer came off, so its good stuff. And that pospho etch stuff is good too. The paint that came off the front bumper was loose paint underneath the primer.

Think once its dry it would be ready for primer?
 

Attachments

austinaubinoe

Member
95
10
8
Location
Potomac, Md
RUST not to bad but gonna need to be cut and patched in the near future. Just gonna get it on the road for now with good paint. Just the front cab corners on each side. And the passenger side door is pretty bad. A lot of bondo and galvinized rivited on. Nice job NJ national guard :doh:

ALSO, I think the original color of this truck was 24087 based on the inside of the door access panel. COOL because im painting it that color again.
 

Attachments

austinaubinoe

Member
95
10
8
Location
Potomac, Md
Ok so I finally have my deuce mostly primer. I power washed it a whole lot and treated it with phosphate etch . Ive spent about $50 on rustoleum red oxide primer so far (one gallon and like 4 cans). I figured it is cheaper then the custom paint, and Ill need less paint painting over a smooth primed surface.

I know I need to let the red oxide cure for 2 weeks due to the fish oil content. Also, I rolled the primer, but I am going to rent a paint sprayer ($80 a day). Just to much work rolling and hard to get tight spots, thats why I had to pick up a few spray cans of primer.

Rentals Unlimited, Inc. Equipment & Truck Rental Airless Paint Sprayers & Painting

But what kind of paint should I use?

Option 1: behr ultra

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/1086734-post259.html

option 2: BM DTM ALKYD.
Product Catalog

I want a oil based 24087. Im getting pretty confused with all the options, but the ALKYD seems like the most heavy duty industrial option. Anyone know how these paints price out? I just read that the behr cost $39 a gallon.

THANKS
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks