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Papabear said "I'm getting worried about you"

Tow4

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It's hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like the clutch has some "glazing". Basically oil burned into the surface.

I used to run a large industrial machine that used clutches that slipped all the time. It didn't take long for them to glaze up from heat and grease etc. Some of the operators were always tearing it down and cleaning the clutches. After a while I convinced them, that it can only get glazed so much and then they will stay the same. I just cranked up the air pressure and they ran for years with no more trouble.

A vehicle clutch only slips momentarily so you want it to have a good friction surface. If you haven't already done it, sand the pucks to ruff them up. If you are comfortably over the minimum thickness, I would put it back in.
 

patracy

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Replaced the rear main seal, siliconed up the studs to the adapter behind the flywheel. Reinstalled the clutch, reinstalled the transmission. Got everything buttoned up. Went to start it and got a slow spin over and dead batteries. I left the lights on. :oops:

I think there's a bad battery now as well. Went to slave it off and the batteries started to boil. Started to pull the batteries and one termial broke off. Had two more batteries to swap in, and of course the terminals are different from my current ones. So I'll have to make a new dogbone tomorrow since I'm out of light. I was so close to having it going again tonight. Ugh.
 

papabear

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Replaced the rear main seal, siliconed up the studs to the adapter behind the flywheel. Reinstalled the clutch, reinstalled the transmission. Got everything buttoned up. Went to start it and got a slow spin over and dead batteries. I left the lights on. :oops:

I think there's a bad battery now as well. Went to slave it off and the batteries started to boil. Started to pull the batteries and one termial broke off. Had two more batteries to swap in, and of course the terminals are different from my current ones. So I'll have to make a new dogbone tomorrow since I'm out of light. I was so close to having it going again tonight. Ugh.
Welcome to my world Brother:beer:
"Close" only counts in horseshoes and hand grenades!:shock:
 

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patracy

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It's alive! Well it moved again at least. Haven't taken it for a test drive, but just backing it up I can feel the clutch has a better grab to it now. I'm not sure what happened on the batteries. I'm going to try giving them a charge now since I'm seeing 11v on them. More to come...
 

patracy

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Went for a quick test drive, clutch holds good now!

Guess this weekend will be comprised of:

1. Installing two more wheels/tires on the rear for a dually look.
2. Lawn care
3. Moving the springs back and pulling the driveshaft.

I'll see about getting the driveshaft lengthend next week as orginally planned. Waiting to hear back from the insurance company now. Gonna try to tag it today.
 

patracy

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Well I eyeballed it a bit at lunch. I think the easiest thing for me to do tonight is to remove the rear driveshaft. Unbolt the front spring hangers. Grind down one rivet, remove a bolt. Lift the tail of it with the wrecker. Then slide the hangers back to the existing holes. Then drill four new holes and reinstall the bolts. That will push it back 4".
 

patracy

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1/2" within center, from what I've read, people normally extend the driveshaft 4.5". I could certainly move mine down 4.5" but I'll have two holes very close to each other if I do. There's enough holes already in the frame from all the previous suspension that I'll give up the 1/2" to not add more.
 

patracy

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Got the front hangers moved back. The rear hangers have a heavy angle on the shackles I need to address. But by moving it back like this, my spring angle is a lot more parallel with the frame. Also it's leveled out now as well. I'm thinking about installing some airbags to help a tad with how things sit.

Also got the rear lugs loose, apparently they were torqued to 5,000ft-lbs. I had to use my 3/4" drive ratchet and a huge cheater bar. I've ran out of light. I see one other issue I'm going to have to address to dual out the rear. The two center most support beams on the 105 bed will hit the inner tire if I don't cut them out. I'm going to notch the ends out for clearance. They'd probably be an issue when I move it to 46's anyhow.

Oh yeah, driveshaft is out as well. But that won't have any movement on it till next week.
 

papabear

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Got the front hangers moved back. The rear hangers have a heavy angle on the shackles I need to address. But by moving it back like this, my spring angle is a lot more parallel with the frame. Also it's leveled out now as well. I'm thinking about installing some airbags to help a tad with how things sit.

Also got the rear lugs loose, apparently they were torqued to 5,000ft-lbs. I had to use my 3/4" drive ratchet and a huge cheater bar. I've ran out of light. I see one other issue I'm going to have to address to dual out the rear. The two center most support beams on the 105 bed will hit the inner tire if I don't cut them out. I'm going to notch the ends out for clearance. They'd probably be an issue when I move it to 46's anyhow.

Oh yeah, driveshaft is out as well. But that won't have any movement on it till next week.
Gosh...you're moving along so fast on this project I suspect you took some lessons from Zout!:beer:
 

islandguydon

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Hey gentlemen, I want to know who put the extra caffeine in Tracy's coffee to get this done as fast as he is doing this.

I have a feeling the parts were already on site waiting for the MV to roll in to be reconditioned.

Post some pictures of the progress....!
 

Danger Ranger

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Well Teddy Roosevelt would read an entire book, or give a speech or something, and then head out in his suit and chop wood until he felt better. Then go in and change, and do some more. He was a beast. Sounds like what is happening here...

Anyhow, the truck seems to be getting better, but it is hard to tell without more pics! Keep up the work.
 

patracy

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Well how many bobbed dually front wheel drive dueces have you seen? I might have the only one at the moment...

Got the rear dualled out this AM. Would have had everything done a lot sooner if I wouldn't have had to waste a half hour getting more propane for the cutting torch and gas for the lawn mower. Anyhow it's ready for the rear drivershaft. I need 4" added to it. I'm prowling ebay and CL for a few more odds and ends I want. I also removed the bed sides and top out of the bed. I had to notch out the bed support frames and the wheel wells to clear the duals.

I forgot to mention a few perks the truck came with. CD player (Just need to install speakers) and a 24 to 12v converter. It also has the nicer A3 electric wipers. And a heater. I'd really like to add one of the AC systems to it and a hard top to make a driver.

Got the grass cut as well. And I started pulling out the middle brake/air lines from the goat. I got new lines made up as well and some fittings/hose for the air side. Just waiting to hear back from popacom about a few more brake bits I need to put it back together. Took a shot of the CUCV as well. I had planned on having this thing done for a while, but my Friends Dad has three cars he's working on the body on right now. So it will be a little longer before it's painted.

The backside of the shop is starting to look like a national guard motorpool. And that's not everything in the pic. :shock:

I'm kinda at a stopping point now without more parts. I'm tempted though to pick up some paint if my wife doesn't make plans for me the rest of this weekend.
 

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patracy

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I guess I lied. I remembered I had stashed away some speakers from a surround system/DVD player we had that broke. I just plugged them in, not the best sounding when it comes to base, but it's a radio!
 
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