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Is your cable stuck? I have been able to salvage cables by taking them completely out of the truck and bending them all ways for a time until they come loose. I then put one end in a container of oil and work the cable back and forth to bring the oil up into the cable housing. I do this with both ends. It may work for yours.
The old cable from my truck also had a grease fitting at the half way point to force grease out to the ends equally. I would check this if yours is just frozen. I wish they would do that on all brake cables.
As a friend of mine says in this kind of situation, "It ain't any good like it is, so---". Try laying it on a hard surface and starting gently, tap it with a hammer along its length to try to break it loose. Rotate it so you tap on all sides. You can get more aggressive with the tapping force as long as you do not dent the cable.
Hoping this works!
Regards Marti
My cable is not frozen due to rust, but due to water infiltration. Now, if I were to use my deuce only in the summer I would be fine. I do like taking it for a spin now and then in the winter so I had to replace my cable. Mine is the new style. The rubber jacket on the outside was falling apart allowing moisture to enter inside through the outer housing. The center would freeze in place. It is amazing how strong ice can be in certain circumstances.
The older design with the grease fitting is superior as it allows you to grease it and keep the water out. When you replace your cable assembly you will most likely find the grease fitting and it will last you as long as you own the truck if you grease it regularly.
I bought a new parking brake cable for my M35A2, pn 12255644. This part number is also listed for some 5 ton trucks such as the M939. When I finally got the old cable out, I noticed that the new cable is about 1.5 ft longer. Everything I have looked at shows it should be the right cable. Can the longer one be used by just having it routed in a more round about manner?
Okay, after a little more research I "believe" I found the source of my problem. The M35A2 parts manual calls for a 12255644. The M939 parts manual calls for a 12255644-1, the difference being the -1. I ordered and received the -1. I have now ordered the 12255644 without the -1. Unless I update this post otherwise, problem solved.
I would think that, as long as you can clamp the cable sheath properly, the length of the cable setup is not really relevant. The lever moves the cable a certain amount - regardless of how long cable and sheath are in total. As you said - I would try and route it more "generously" and see if that works. Worst case, you order the shorter one.