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PCB, EESS, 3S, TSU, GPC... Try to figuer them out.

Retiredwarhorses

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I would be more than happy to tell you what the problem is, but I’m convinced you would find fault in my answer, as it appears you have in others…
question, why are you here asking questions and then discounting the responses from people who have been working on this platform for many many years? not to mention the fact this issue is under a separate topic no less than once a day.
based on your previous response to my answers, I have no intentions of helping you with your technical issues, but I will attempt to steer you in the right direction for others to help you, when you come to a forum and ask for help, your going to get multiple response, many you wont like, if you don’t like them, don’t respond.
 

spankybear

Well-known member
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Location
WA
I would be more than happy to tell you what the problem is, but I’m convinced you would find fault in my answer, as it appears you have in others…
question, why are you here asking questions and then discounting the responses from people who have been working on this platform for many many years? not to mention the fact this issue is under a separate topic no less than once a day.
based on your previous response to my answers, I have no intentions of helping you with your technical issues, but I will attempt to steer you in the right direction for others to help you, when you come to a forum and ask for help, your going to get multiple response, many you wont like, if you don’t like them, don’t respond.
I am not too sure how to take this. First you say you would be more than happy to help then go on then say you have no intentions of helping. Not too sure why you need to say this.

I know this engine family very well, Own many in the past and have been working on them for decades... and I love this family from the first 6.2l on. I am not looking for nor have I asked about the engine. I am, however, not familiar with start box on these trucks. I have a basic electronic/electric troubleshooting background and skills. I want to learn these boxes and how to troubleshoot the system. I have said many times I don't use an assault parts cannon to "fix things" I have read many times on this forum where people replace the GPs EESS, and TSU only to have the same issue.

One of the questions I have that I have not seen the answer (maybe I missed it) is the flashing wait light. I would think that this maybe is a trouble code but I do not know. The other question I have is how does the box know if the glow plugs are good. Being low resistance in a parallel has me wondering. Then there is talk about the batteries being unbalanced. That had be wondering if the smart box looks at each battery or the sum of the 2. I believe I have worked that out.

I have asked questions and started threads on specific topics. I know that the interwebs will take all sort of turns... I really don't want to rude but some of the turns people bring in thread up I already know .

I don't want to sound rude here and this is not my intent. I also don't want to get banned here... There is a LOT of good people and EXCELLENT information here. I have learned a lot here... especially with my LMTV. But I have to ask why you needed to tell me you would be more than happy to tell me what the problem is then go on the say you have no intention on helping with my issue. I would think that you as a well respected member here would let someone you think to be a fool be a fool and not say anything. The fool will pan out...
 

papakb

Well-known member
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Location
San Jose, Ca
Stepping back a bit regarding the test light vs the multimeter. A test light will only show you if there's some continuity thru the glow plugs and it doesn't care if they're 8 ohms or 800 ohms and the multimeter will show you exactly what their resistance is. This matters because they're all in parallel and the start box doesn't check them to make sure every plug gets and even amount of current to heat them. A high resistance glow plug in a situation like this will behave just like an open plug and you'll get no heat to that cylinder, thus hard starting in winter.

Those of us that reply and post here for the most part are knowledgeable mechanics that are willing to help the loads of new owners with limited awareness on how these strangeoids work. What we find frustrating is the repetitious posts on the same topic. This is what the search feature on this bulletin board is for. Admittedly newcomers have no awareness that it exists, hence their posts. Perhaps we need a large sticky at the head of the list that says: "HAVE YOU RESEARCHED THIS TOPIC?" (Moderator?)

As a long time HMMWV owner (22+ years) it still amazes me the problems we have with the start boxes. In that 22 years I think I've replaced maybe 6 glow plugs and 1 start box and that was an original Prestolite box that had served my truck well. Thanks to RWH with his assistance I made it home from a camping spot 100 miles from home.

Anyway, we're here to help and doing a little homework, asking the right questions and providing us with enough information to help you makes our job immensely easier. You'd be surprised at how many asking for help forget to mention their make and model HMMWV so sometimes it's like trying to answering the question: "How long is my string?"
 

spankybear

Well-known member
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93
Location
WA
I have reverse engineered almost all of them....

The data exists, but you have to spend some serious time figuring it out.
Do you know what ones have a PIC micro controller in them? I would love to get my hand on some non working ones to take a look.

I did get my figured out and working well... and the truck start well! Just haven;t had the time to post much with taxes, work and life in gernal.. I want to take some video and pictures to post. In due time I hope.
 
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