Picked up 6 MEP-802A gensets and will be documenting making them all runners here

[rustystud]

Looking much better. I would hone a bit more with the fine grit and just get the scratches out from the course stones. Low/medium speed, smaller angle. Consider it therapeutic

What Munchies said ! and use lots of honing oil. At this rate you'll be done with these engines before you know it !

 

[steelypip]

^^ What he said--Lots of honing oil and then a really, really thorough wash down of the bores with clean DF2 or Kerosene to get the swarf and stone particles out. You could do worse than to have somebody run it through a spray tank afterward. If it was small enough, I'd stick it in the dishwasher after the second kerosene cycle and just oil all the machined surfaces after drying it in the oven. I have washed bores and ground parts more than twice and still gotten little bits of swarf and stone powder off of a coarse surface finish with a finger.

 

[pclausen]

So I honed it some more this morning and then dropped it off at the machine shop for some hot tank action. Picked it up a few hours later.

Looks a lot better now!


http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-8-14-01.JPG


http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-8-14-02.JPG


http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-8-14-03.JPG


http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-8-14-04.JPG


http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-8-14-05.JPG

So yeah, I'll wipe down the walls real good until my paper towel stays white, then get the crank all cleaned up and put back in there.

 

[Munchies]

Lookin good. Watch your lint with paper products. Cotton tshirt scraps or Kimtech wipes (amazon!) are perfect for bores and bearings.
Primer held up well. Kind of nice, you will be able to assemble it and shoot some paint at it without doing any more metal prep.

 

[CDR]

Picked up 3 MEP-802A gensets and will be documenting making them all runners ...

Redid the bores using the 400 grit. Here's what they look like now:

View attachment 509568
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-8-13-01.JPG

View attachment 509569
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-8-13-02.JPG

I've had the cylinders soaking in carb cleaner and this is where they are at. The #1 (on left) looks a lot better than #2.

View attachment 509570
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-8-13-03.JPG

View attachment 509571
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-8-13-04.JPG

Most/all of those marks on #2 are probably from when I forced the crank to turn before I had added ATF into the bores...

Anyway, I think they will both be fine.

Those bores are not good. There's not a good cross hatched pattern. The rings will not seat in property. Watch some you tube videos on how to hone maybe that will help.

 

[CDR]

Looks like you aren't moving the drill up and down fast enough

 

[CDR]

The lines don't cross on this they must cross

 

[Munchies]

Hard to tell. His after machine shop pictures look good. Maybe its the angle/camera.

Bet the rings seal better than they did before

 

[pclausen]

Appreciate the feedback. I just watched some YouTube videos and I think I saw more videos of how NOT to hone. Some of those guys are running the drill at full speed and barely moving the drill up and down. Did see a few good ones. One thing I wasn't doing was to pull out the stones while the drill was still at speed. I was stopping in the bore, then squeezing the stones and pulling out. I'll do a bit more honing with some faster up down action to get to a more consistent 40 degree angle or so. I think some of the camera shot angles make it look worse than it is. I got plenty of old t-shirts, so I'll use those for the final wipe down.

 

[steelypip]

Interesting that the block actually has 'GENSET ENGINE' cast in it. Wouldn't want to use the wrong block by mistake I guess - must be something special about them. Are you going to go back with the orange paint? Looks like it's pretty close to Kubota orange.

 

[Munchies]

You definatly want to keep your up and down speed fairly quick to avoid over honing in any one spot. Alternatively if you get bored of this your machinist will probably do it for $10 a hole or so.

 

[CDR]

Picked up 3 MEP-802A gensets and will be documenting making them all runners ...




Maybe these will help

 

[CDR]

 

[CDR]

Again it might be the photo but it looks like no cross hatch at all. Please don't put the motor together looking like this. I want to see this beast scream when your done

 

[pclausen]

Thanks for the additional clarity. I think some of my photos are misleading due to angle and lighting. Once I get a chance, I'll take some better pics. Didn't get a chance to work any more on the 2009 over the weekend (youngest daughter's 2 year birthday), but hopefully will soon. The rings showed up Friday and the "gun barrel" cleaner Saturday, so I'm exited about getting the pistons ready to go.

 

[pclausen]

I think one of my problems was that I was using a variable speed drill that did not have a "lock" feature to keep the speed constant. So unless I held my finger in the exact same position, which was nearly impossible, the speed would change up or down quite a bit. So I found a drill at the big box store that had a little finger wheel on the trigger to set the max speed. They had only one out of about 75 different models.

So I worked the bores a little more with the new drill and the medium grit stone. These pics still don't really show the crosshatch pattern properly, but I really think it is the angle and/or flash.


http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-8-19-5.JPG


http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-8-19-6.JPG

The rings are here


http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-8-19-8.JPG

Fit properly on the piston


http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-8-19-9.JPG

But alas, they appear to be oversize


http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-8-19-10.JPG


http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-8-19-11.JPG

I sent the above 2 pics to the seller. Hopefully he has the correct standard size ones he can send me.

On a positive note, the crankshaft thrust bearings all measure right at 0.0925", which is right in-line with the spec, which is 0.091 - 0.093 new.


http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-8-19-12.JPG

 

[rustystud]

Peter, fit the rings into the bore and then check the end-gap. You can use a piston to push down a ring to make sure it is parallel to the bore. You might have to shave off some of the rings with a ring file.

 

[pclausen]

Ok, so you're saying I should just file down these oversize rings to fit into my standard bores?

Something like this right?

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/PRECISION-PISTON-RING-FILER,2915.html

Peter

 

[steelypip]

I think one of my problems was that I was using a variable speed drill that did not have a "lock" feature to keep the speed constant. So unless I held my finger in the exact same position, which was nearly impossible, the speed would change up or down quite a bit. So I found a drill at the big box store that had a little finger wheel on the trigger to set the max speed. They had only one out of about 75 different models.

Gee, I'd never thought of that aspect of it - I always use a really old one-speed drill motor for this and just got good at really hustling up and down the bore to get the right angle. It does cause some problems when the stones want to come flying out at the top of the bore, but the speed is at least pretty constant.

As for the rings - yes, just file the ends to the end gap specification and keep on trucking. It's a completely legitimate thing to do and might give you a better seal than the standard bore ones would anyway if their end gap was larger.

 

[m-35tom]

unless they are chrome or some other hard ring material, then they will require grinding, not filing.