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Picked up 6 MEP-802A gensets and will be documenting making them all runners here
- Thread starter pclausen
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- eldersburg maryland
i got some very nice 803's but had to pay $7000 for the best one. i know that is crazy, but i guarantee you i will sell it and make money, it is brand new. 802's are also getting expensive and i personally inspect before the sale, lots are junk, some are very nice. pictures do not mean a thing. but out of 13, all run great after cleaning old fuel from pumps on a few. just had some new sheet metal made for tops on 4 of them as they were damaged or missing.No wonder decent 802's are going for around $3k on GL. When something seems too good to be true, like me picking up 3 802's for $2k, it usually is. That said, I'm quite sure I'll have way less than $3k in each one by the time I'm done with them.
tom
I'm still waiting on the IP shims. I'll probably start looking around for another source soon. Spoke to the machine shop about the head for the 3rd unit, and it unfortunately needs new seats and guides as well. So all 3 will have completely rebuilt heads.
I also picked up 2 more 802s from the same guy I got the first 3 from when I recently made a trip to MD to pick up a Hyster forklift. One of them is showing 2100 hours and the guy I picked it up from had already gone over it and was getting ready to test it (had all new filters and fluids), just needed batteries. I might look it over a little myself before attempting to crank it. The 2nd unit shows about 7500 hours, but looks to be complete. I also picked up a 003 from him, so I now have 5 802s and a 003.
Here's a shot of me unloading the 003 with the 802s also visible:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP-003A-01.JPG
I agree prices on GLs are pretty crazy. I saw some decent looking 803s go for over $4000 recently, one went for $6000! I paid a total of $4000 for my 5 802s and $1300 for the 003, which I think will run good once I get the fuel pumps sucking properly. Plan to use one 802 and the 003 for my house emergency backup needs (mostly the 802 and only switch to the 003 when I need more than the 802 can handle). I already got friends interested in buying the other ones when I get done with them.
I also picked up 2 more 802s from the same guy I got the first 3 from when I recently made a trip to MD to pick up a Hyster forklift. One of them is showing 2100 hours and the guy I picked it up from had already gone over it and was getting ready to test it (had all new filters and fluids), just needed batteries. I might look it over a little myself before attempting to crank it. The 2nd unit shows about 7500 hours, but looks to be complete. I also picked up a 003 from him, so I now have 5 802s and a 003.
Here's a shot of me unloading the 003 with the 802s also visible:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP-003A-01.JPG
I agree prices on GLs are pretty crazy. I saw some decent looking 803s go for over $4000 recently, one went for $6000! I paid a total of $4000 for my 5 802s and $1300 for the 003, which I think will run good once I get the fuel pumps sucking properly. Plan to use one 802 and the 003 for my house emergency backup needs (mostly the 802 and only switch to the 003 when I need more than the 802 can handle). I already got friends interested in buying the other ones when I get done with them.
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cjones
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Peter, Any luck with finding new injectors or Injection pumps. I ran the part numbers through google and there doesn't seem to be much out there.
I picked up 6 new injectors from that large online auction site for $50 a pop, so a pretty reasonable deal I think.
Only thing I'm still missing are the injection pump shims. I'll probably end up calling Kraft Power to see if they have any at a reasonable price. Should only be a few bucks per pack I would think.
Only thing I'm still missing are the injection pump shims. I'll probably end up calling Kraft Power to see if they have any at a reasonable price. Should only be a few bucks per pack I would think.
cjones
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So, just to make sure that I'm searching for the right part: Are the Stanadyne 31539 and Delphi LJBT00301 interchangable? Are there any other crossmatches? I called a number of diesel/parts stores locally and found nothing. I called Onan corporate and they couldn't help either. There's one on flea bay but only one and the shipping look like they're shipping the entire engine.
For the injector pumps I pulled a Delphi TPF10070T3502 (other side read lister-petter 751-41174A). I searched the above sources and found nothing for these as well. Any parts crossmatches or a source to buy?
Thanks for the detailed write up on the rebuilds, I think I'm most impressed about resourcefulness in getting parts. I would also say that this post gave me hope when I pulled the muffler and found standing water. Thanks for the time and good luck getting yours back together.
For the injector pumps I pulled a Delphi TPF10070T3502 (other side read lister-petter 751-41174A). I searched the above sources and found nothing for these as well. Any parts crossmatches or a source to buy?
Thanks for the detailed write up on the rebuilds, I think I'm most impressed about resourcefulness in getting parts. I would also say that this post gave me hope when I pulled the muffler and found standing water. Thanks for the time and good luck getting yours back together.
I think they are interchangeable. I opened up my box of 6 and here they are:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-10-23-01.JPG
Just search that large online auction site for "lpw injectors" and you'll find them. More than 10 available is says.
Also called Kraft Power and they have the IP shims in stock in their Georgia warehouse. $3 a pop so I ordered 3 of each of the 2 thicknesses I didn't have. Since there's a $50 minimum order, I also ordered 4 more valve guides for the 3rd head. They were $16.50 each from Kraft.
So now I should be able to proceed with getting the first of the now 5 802s up and running.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-10-23-01.JPG
Just search that large online auction site for "lpw injectors" and you'll find them. More than 10 available is says.
Also called Kraft Power and they have the IP shims in stock in their Georgia warehouse. $3 a pop so I ordered 3 of each of the 2 thicknesses I didn't have. Since there's a $50 minimum order, I also ordered 4 more valve guides for the 3rd head. They were $16.50 each from Kraft.
So now I should be able to proceed with getting the first of the now 5 802s up and running.
The IP shims finally showed up so that I'll be able to continue re-assembling the first engine.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-10-29-01.JPG
Also received 4 valve guides for the 3rd head, so I'll drop those off at the machine shop so they can complete rebuilding that head.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-10-29-01.JPG
Also received 4 valve guides for the 3rd head, so I'll drop those off at the machine shop so they can complete rebuilding that head.
Impressive what you have done, an equally impressive is how you have documented your work. I wanted to say thank you for your effort, I'm sure it will help a lot in the future with my two 802a's, I just picked up with 8 hrs on each of them, still have the yellow top optima batteries in and was shocked they are still hot, so I'm just getting started.
thanks again
thanks again
I too would like an update please.
I've Ben lurking on this thread with great interest while I got my own 802a up and running. I have it running and making electricity after replacing a shorted stator. I'm quite honestly a little pessimistic that Peter will get these going, knowing how much work, research and money I've sunk into mine. It gets a bit demoralizing after a while. Best wishes and hope I am wrong about my pessimism.
I've Ben lurking on this thread with great interest while I got my own 802a up and running. I have it running and making electricity after replacing a shorted stator. I'm quite honestly a little pessimistic that Peter will get these going, knowing how much work, research and money I've sunk into mine. It gets a bit demoralizing after a while. Best wishes and hope I am wrong about my pessimism.
rustystud
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Am sure Peter will finish. He has too much invested now to quit. Probably just taking a break, it can be mind numbing dealing with all the problems of fixing these units plus all the stress of life.
Kind of ashame this was the best MEP802 tread ever so much good info I personally feel each machine should of been done one at a time so Peter could reference one that was together. I really hope he didn't go over his head and lose interest in this project.
Hey guys, I still plan to get these running. In fact, I picked up the 3rd head from the machine shop last week. I have not had time to work on them lately due to having to finish part of my basement as an "in-law" suite for my mother in law.
I started on 11-22 with this:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/basement-1.jpg
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/basement-01.jpg
Got it all cleaned out:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/inlaw-02.JPG
Put in radiant floor heat since the other half of the basement was already heated this way and I had vacant zones:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/inlawsuite-01-11-28-14.JPG
And after many long nights and weekend, I finally got it done last week.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/inlaw01-1-10-15.JPG
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/inlaw02-1-10-15.JPG
My mother in-law moved in this past week, so I'm now finally able to go back to working on these 802s!
I actually picked up 2 more 802's back in October, so I got a total of 5 now, and one of those last 2 is up and running, but the meters are not yet working and it is not making power. Once I get this one running unit 100% right, I'll begin putting the first of the 3 units that was totally torn down back together and document the process here. If I run into any issues along the way, I'll be able to reference the running unit. It will be interesting to load test the non-rebuild unit alongside the rebuilt unit, to see if there is a difference in the power they can make.
I started on 11-22 with this:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/basement-1.jpg
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/basement-01.jpg
Got it all cleaned out:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/inlaw-02.JPG
Put in radiant floor heat since the other half of the basement was already heated this way and I had vacant zones:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/inlawsuite-01-11-28-14.JPG
And after many long nights and weekend, I finally got it done last week.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/inlaw01-1-10-15.JPG
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/inlaw02-1-10-15.JPG
My mother in-law moved in this past week, so I'm now finally able to go back to working on these 802s!
I actually picked up 2 more 802's back in October, so I got a total of 5 now, and one of those last 2 is up and running, but the meters are not yet working and it is not making power. Once I get this one running unit 100% right, I'll begin putting the first of the 3 units that was totally torn down back together and document the process here. If I run into any issues along the way, I'll be able to reference the running unit. It will be interesting to load test the non-rebuild unit alongside the rebuilt unit, to see if there is a difference in the power they can make.
R Racing
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Thanks for the update! ! You did a fantastic job on the your basement! !!
Keith_J
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Well, the basement looks grand. I would be willing to work on your gen sets in exchange for work on my sun room...roof is done, standing seam metal. Ceiling wired, insulated and drywall hung. Just need 8 sheets of 12 foot drywall for walls, cut to between 11 and 10 feet...
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That is one sharp inlaw suite. Nice job.
Thanks guys. Yes, it turned out real nice! A couple pics of the initial framing.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/inlaw-03-11-30-14.JPG
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/inlaw-06-11-30-14.JPG
I did floating bamboo flooring and the cabinets are from Ikea. I had enough tile left over from when I did my main kitchen and panty many years ago, so I was able to use that for this little kitchen and door entrance.
So I went and played with the 802 that does run and made decent progress. First I re-wired the connection between the fuel solenoid and TB4 using solder and heat shrink and cut the wire to length (it was way too long before). I then added wire loom in all the areas there was evidence of chafing.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-01-1-18-15.JPG
I then figured out why I kept getting a low oil pressure fault when starting the engine. Up until now, I had to leave the low pressure switch open to get it to run. Turns out wire 130A (oil pressure sender) and 143C (oil pressure switch common) were reversed.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-02-1-18-15.JPG
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-03-1-18-15.JPG
I then re-installed the control box and started the unit. Still no oil pressure reading (or anything else except coolant temp), but none of the fault indicators were tripping and I tested they all worked.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-04-1-18-15.JPG
I was only getting 7.5 VAC between L1 and L3 and GND, and 15 VAC between L1 and L3. Frequency was around 57 Hz (as measured using hand held unit). So I adjusted rpm up until I get 60.0 Hz. I checked voltage between as many of the 12 stator terminals as I could, and they were all around that 7.5 VAC I was also getting on the output. I checked battery voltage and I was getting about 14.7V, so the charging systems appeared to be working fine.
After a while, the coolant temp settled at around 170, which I think sounds about right, maybe a little high for no load?
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-05-1-18-15.JPG
I noticed a slight fuel leak at the #1 injector supply line, so I shut the unit down. Turns out the flange nut was just a little loose.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-06-1-18-15.JPG
I measured the resistance between the stator windings, and they were around 2 ohms, so I think they are ok. I'll check the field flash relay, but I'm pretty sure it's ok since I already cleaned them all relays and checked that contacts were good.
When I first looked over this set, I noticed the 4 prong plug for the exciter stator was disconnected, so maybe I got a bad exciter? I sure hope not!
I'll worry about the fuel, charge and oil pressure gauges later as I'd like to get it making power first!
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/inlaw-03-11-30-14.JPG
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/inlaw-06-11-30-14.JPG
I did floating bamboo flooring and the cabinets are from Ikea. I had enough tile left over from when I did my main kitchen and panty many years ago, so I was able to use that for this little kitchen and door entrance.
So I went and played with the 802 that does run and made decent progress. First I re-wired the connection between the fuel solenoid and TB4 using solder and heat shrink and cut the wire to length (it was way too long before). I then added wire loom in all the areas there was evidence of chafing.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-01-1-18-15.JPG
I then figured out why I kept getting a low oil pressure fault when starting the engine. Up until now, I had to leave the low pressure switch open to get it to run. Turns out wire 130A (oil pressure sender) and 143C (oil pressure switch common) were reversed.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-02-1-18-15.JPG
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-03-1-18-15.JPG
I then re-installed the control box and started the unit. Still no oil pressure reading (or anything else except coolant temp), but none of the fault indicators were tripping and I tested they all worked.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-04-1-18-15.JPG
I was only getting 7.5 VAC between L1 and L3 and GND, and 15 VAC between L1 and L3. Frequency was around 57 Hz (as measured using hand held unit). So I adjusted rpm up until I get 60.0 Hz. I checked voltage between as many of the 12 stator terminals as I could, and they were all around that 7.5 VAC I was also getting on the output. I checked battery voltage and I was getting about 14.7V, so the charging systems appeared to be working fine.
After a while, the coolant temp settled at around 170, which I think sounds about right, maybe a little high for no load?
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-05-1-18-15.JPG
I noticed a slight fuel leak at the #1 injector supply line, so I shut the unit down. Turns out the flange nut was just a little loose.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/MEP802-06-1-18-15.JPG
I measured the resistance between the stator windings, and they were around 2 ohms, so I think they are ok. I'll check the field flash relay, but I'm pretty sure it's ok since I already cleaned them all relays and checked that contacts were good.
When I first looked over this set, I noticed the 4 prong plug for the exciter stator was disconnected, so maybe I got a bad exciter? I sure hope not!
I'll worry about the fuel, charge and oil pressure gauges later as I'd like to get it making power first!
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