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Pieces and parts for IP rebuild

DaneGer21

Well-known member
614
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93
Location
Creston, Ohio
What other pieces and parts would be needed or be wise to replace when tearing apart the IP to replace gaskets? I already have the “basic” gasket kit, and the HH orings on hand.

I was hoping maybe someone who’s been through a rebuild could offer some advice on what might need replaced, or what I should just go ahead and replace.

As of now, the only reason I wanna start this process is because of leaky gaskets if a few spots. Otherwise this is a completely fine and operational IP.

Thanks.
 

williamh

Well-known member
473
646
93
Location
SanDiego Ca.
What other pieces and parts would be needed or be wise to replace when tearing apart the IP to replace gaskets? I already have the “basic” gasket kit, and the HH orings on hand.

I was hoping maybe someone who’s been through a rebuild could offer some advice on what might need replaced, or what I should just go ahead and replace.

As of now, the only reason I wanna start this process is because of leaky gaskets if a few spots. Otherwise this is a completely fine and operational IP.

Thanks.
I don’t think I’ve seen anyone rebuild the ip , usually it’s just replace the gaskets or replace what had failed. If your really adventurous you might replace the bearings or the springs on the advance. Other than that ?? I have like 5 spares , I had more but just took them apart for “ how does this work “ or to sell a part.
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,267
1,988
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
Generally, you want to do as little as possible. I have only done this on the Stanadyne DB2 but none of the adjustable parts of the pump have to be disturbed to replace all of the seals. Adjustable components can be removed as an assembly.
 

DaneGer21

Well-known member
614
1,162
93
Location
Creston, Ohio
Generally, you want to do as little as possible. I have only done this on the Stanadyne DB2 but none of the adjustable parts of the pump have to be disturbed to replace all of the seals. Adjustable components can be removed as an assembly.
Awesome! Because the only real issues at this moment are leaky gaskets/seals. Mainly the IP body/housing.
 

DaneGer21

Well-known member
614
1,162
93
Location
Creston, Ohio
I don’t think I’ve seen anyone rebuild the ip , usually it’s just replace the gaskets or replace what had failed. If your really adventurous you might replace the bearings or the springs on the advance. Other than that ?? I have like 5 spares , I had more but just took them apart for “ how does this work “ or to sell a part.
The only “issues” are leaky gaskets/seals. Mainly the IP body/housing and that’s it. It is currently on a running truck, so it doesn’t seem to have any other issues that I’m aware of.
 

DaneGer21

Well-known member
614
1,162
93
Location
Creston, Ohio
I was just hoping to find someone who’s been through one a few times that might say; “X” always needed replaced, or “Y” was always worn out. Kinda the common things I might find when digging in. I’m not looking for a “complete” rebuild, but if “X and Y” always needed replaced, then I’ll do that in conjunction with my gasket kit.
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,267
1,988
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
You can get seal kits from companies like Diamond Diesel. On the Stanadyne pumps it's the throttle shaft seal that goes bad but it's not much more work to do the rest. I don't know if this applies to your pump. The paint marks mean calibration points so don't loosen the painted screws.

If you need to replace anything else the cost to repair will exceed the value of the pump.
 
Last edited:

rustystud

Well-known member
9,284
2,995
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
I was just hoping to find someone who’s been through one a few times that might say; “X” always needed replaced, or “Y” was always worn out. Kinda the common things I might find when digging in. I’m not looking for a “complete” rebuild, but if “X and Y” always needed replaced, then I’ll do that in conjunction with my gasket kit.
If your just looking to "refresh" your pump then replacing the Hydraulic Head 'O'-rings is the first thing. Then I would remove the "booster pump and after cleaning it up replace the shaft seal. This seal keeps the fuel in the pump and not in the engine. I mention the replacement and the cleaning in my rebuild thread.
 
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