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Pist!

DanMartin

New member
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Hillsboro, Oregon (USA)
Maybe add a piece of flat stock across that section to protect it in the future?

Is that aluminum? If you can get it off, you could TIG it back together...good as new. Epoxy is quicker tho....
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
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Location
Cincy Ohio
Yes, I am thinking a two part epoxy putty. I am DEFINATELY going to make a ramp that will bolt on and angle away. That flat spot is bad bad. Kenny, you got it right!
 

rosco

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,102
30
38
Location
Delta Junction, Alaska
Weld it! Its not structural! Is there lube behind it? There isn't any in it. Is there a gasket sealing surface? That would make a little difference, on how I would do it. If there is a sealing surface behind it, then take the front plate off, clean/straighten everything, use stick aluminum electrode - short welds. I suspect that you can get the box off, and that is all it is, a cover for over run brake. Then take it anywhere to weld. The whole thing is not a big deal, even though you don't like hurting things.

Lee in Alaska
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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1,808
113
Location
GA Mountains
At least there is a boom right above it if you end up pulling the winch. Can you pin your boom supports up on the boom? Mine can be pinned up. I see lots of folk with 816s leaving the supports attached to the bed.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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I was raising the boom to pin the supports and remebered that I had the hook tied to a bumperette. I lowered the boom to unhook, sneezed, and heard crunching noises. I doubt I will ever strap the hook to my truck again.
 

timntrucks

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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63
Location
Ponchatoula LA
man that is bad luck, you can weld it up just fine. i undo my arms and leave them on the bed. i see now just how heavy that boom is and ill be extra careful from now on TIm
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Tim, I'm not sure about the Garwood beds, but the Austin-Western beds have power down booms. I'm sure that helped crack it.
 

oifvet

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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9
38
Location
(near) Xenia, Ohio
Man, Chris! I know that bugs you, but it really looks repairable.

Maybe hog out a "U" valley around the break (fault line) and wire-weld it nice and easy. Grind it flat. Prime and paint.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Location
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Well, dad didn't get as good a pic as I wanted, but it really looks like cast. Pretty thick cast too. I have not gotten time to look at it to figure out what I am going to do, but if it is cast, I will need to pre heat, use a high nickle rod, and post heat for a good weld. I will follow up with whatever I do. I know I have learned alot from this, if it helps even one other person, I will be happy.
 

supermechanic

Member
274
1
18
Location
poconos, pa
don't try to weld cast aluminum, to much dirt in the metal, makes for a lousy mess of a weld.
jb weld or use bondo 'tigerhair'. tigerhair is increadible stuff.
i've fixed cracked gearboxes with it.
as long as the part has no torque on it.
works on rotted oil pans and gas tanks too.
 

madsam

New member
1,106
4
0
Location
M
That is not as bad as I thought. But it does remind me to be careful about lowering my boom. I tend to thing these things are bullet proof. but they do have Achilles heals.

It looks fixable to me. Maybe put a small plate over that area afterwards to make sure it doesn't happen again.
 
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