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Piston Rings Worn Out, Time for a Rebuild

Wildchild467

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I don't have water injection on mine. I am seeing the 1300 EGT up hill as well. The numbers look very good with your water injection. Have you put Methanol in the mix yet?
1300 is toasty. Are you using straight diesel? You have more hills in the common wealth than I have here in Michigan. I sure miss the hills.

I sure wish there were easier options for our trucks to install a bigger air cleaner under the hood. I start to pull up my air filter indicator (new style indicator located under my steering column) around 13psi /2000rpm. Just a little bit bigger filter (yes mine is clean) would make me feel better. I always keep my eyes peeled at junk yards and such to see if there is something that may work. Fab up brackets, paint it 383 green and it looks like it is supposed to be there. That's how I like it.
 

Wildchild467

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It's running great, it seems to get better with more miles. I tray and push it hard when I drive it.
I am very happy that your build is going well. I really wish I knew why my LDS piston kits did not work out. I am convinced that they were the problem all along. Also I believe the main bearings were worn some as well which caused the lower oil pressure. Not a junk engine by any means but it would be easier to parts it out than save it at this point. Poor engine. It never made me walk, I have to give it that.
 

rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
1300 is toasty. Are you using straight diesel? You have more hills in the common wealth than I have here in Michigan. I sure miss the hills.

I sure wish there were easier options for our trucks to install a bigger air cleaner under the hood. I start to pull up my air filter indicator (new style indicator located under my steering column) around 13psi /2000rpm. Just a little bit bigger filter (yes mine is clean) would make me feel better. I always keep my eyes peeled at junk yards and such to see if there is something that may work. Fab up brackets, paint it 383 green and it looks like it is supposed to be there. That's how I like it.
The M35A3 air filter is larger then the A2. Also being outside the engine it is easier to clean. That's one reason why I went with one on mine.
 

ShawnIfert

Member
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Location
chatham PA
I only get to 1300 up a big hill. I don't let get that high. I run pump Diesel.

Now the Air intake, I took an M35 A3 intake and installed it. it is very easy. TNJ Murray has them for 200 usd.
image.jpgIMG_0862.jpg
 

Another Ahab

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Location
Alexandria, VA
Also I believe the main bearings were worn some as well which caused the lower oil pressure. Not a junk engine by any means but it would be easier to parts it out than save it at this point. Poor engine. It never made me walk, I have to give it that.
If you gave the block a decent burial, you could write that as an epitaph on the tombstone!

But she'll probably just go to the "fiery furnace", where all Old Iron usually ends up:
 
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mark salanco

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greenville sc
I have only used 1 gallon of 30% methanol and 2, 12oz bottles of 100% methanol. This mixture is only about 1% methanol. My water tank is 26 gallons.
 

mark salanco

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greenville sc
I am very happy that your build is going well. I really wish I knew why my LDS piston kits did not work out. I am convinced that they were the problem all along. Also I believe the main bearings were worn some as well which caused the lower oil pressure. Not a junk engine by any means but it would be easier to parts it out than save it at this point. Poor engine. It never made me walk, I have to give it that.
I think you have a cracked head or cracked block. Was your engine a TD block?
 

Wildchild467

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Milford / Michigan
I think you have a cracked head or cracked block. Was your engine a TD block?
It is a TD block. This problem never happened with my old engine, only after I rebuilt it. They were NOS heads as well. Anything is possible, but geez, I wouldnt think anything would be cracked... or at least shouldn't be.

Side note: How do you know your LDS piston kits are 20:1 compression when in the manual and all the late model pistons were 22:1. I know the early, early multifuel pistons were 20:1. It was covered in the manual somewhere and the way to tell the two apart was to measure the diameter of the combustion hole in the top of the piston. Just wondering.
 

Wildchild467

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,052
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Location
Milford / Michigan
I only get to 1300 up a big hill. I don't let get that high. I run pump Diesel.

Now the Air intake, I took an M35 A3 intake and installed it. it is very easy. TNJ Murray has them for 200 usd.
View attachment 627740View attachment 627741
How many CFM is that filter rated for? I believe a stock deuce air filter was 410 CFM... please correct me if I am wrong. I would like to find something where I can flow a little more air through my air filter. Maybe find something somewhere, make brackets and modify it so I can install it under the hood so it looks stock still. a filter rated for 600 CFM would be awesome. Right now under hard acceleration, i can get the filter gauge to come up to about 7 inches of water... or 7 of whatever the units are, i forget.
 
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mark salanco

New member
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greenville sc
It is a TD block. This problem never happened with my old engine, only after I rebuilt it. They were NOS heads as well. Anything is possible, but geez, I wouldnt think anything would be cracked... or at least shouldn't be.

Side note: How do you know your LDS piston kits are 20:1 compression when in the manual and all the late model pistons were 22:1. I know the early, early multifuel pistons were 20:1. It was covered in the manual somewhere and the way to tell the two apart was to measure the diameter of the combustion hole in the top of the piston. Just wondering.
I measured the chamber volume in the pistons. Huge difference between the original and the LDS.
The LDS chamber is much larger.

If your block is good, I'm willing to bet money that you have a bad head, or heads. Are you going to have a rebuild shop check them at some point. The curiosity is getting to me.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
How many CFM is that filter rated for? I believe a stock deuce air filter was 410 CFM... please correct me if I am wrong. I would like to find something where I can flow a little more air through my air filter. Maybe find something somewhere, make brackets and modify it so I can install it under the hood so it looks stock still. a filter rated for 600 CFM would be awesome. Right now under hard acceleration, i can get the filter gauge to come up to about 7 inches of water... or 7 of whatever the units are, i forget.
If I remember right the A3 filter can handle 800 CFM.
 

ShawnIfert

Member
106
7
18
Location
chatham PA
Well at least it was more then 500CFM :roll:. Just goes to show you I don't always remember right and don't want to look up the answer !
The filter and housing are just better all around!! It bring your intake almost two feet higher, has turbulators, a dust purge system if you use the m3 muffler, you could call it a cool air intake since it is on the fender not the engine bay and it gives more space to work on the engine.

Rusty like you said it does have more and it is a better system then both the 5 ton and M2.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,259
2,945
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
The filter and housing are just better all around!! It bring your intake almost two feet higher, has turbulators, a dust purge system if you use the m3 muffler, you could call it a cool air intake since it is on the fender not the engine bay and it gives more space to work on the engine.

Rusty like you said it does have more and it is a better system then both the 5 ton and M2.
I really like mine and I'm glad I did the conversion. It really opens up that whole side area like you said ! And it is SO easy to replace (clean) the filter now ! Another plus, you don't get any standing water in the bottom of the filter housing anymore. My seals where getting bad and allowed water to get in. Even if my new housing leaks the way it is mounted the water will go to the entrance not the back.
 

Wildchild467

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Location
Milford / Michigan
I measured the chamber volume in the pistons. Huge difference between the original and the LDS.
The LDS chamber is much larger.

If your block is good, I'm willing to bet money that you have a bad head, or heads. Are you going to have a rebuild shop check them at some point. The curiosity is getting to me.
I know, it was eating at me too trying to figure out what the cause of the blowby is/was. I only had the problem when I put those new pistons in though. The truck never started good after that. I have the original LDT pistons in and I couldnt be happier. It runs awesome now. It will be neat to see how it does in the cold weather starting. That will be a test.
 

mark salanco

New member
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greenville sc
I know, it was eating at me too trying to figure out what the cause of the blowby is/was. I only had the problem when I put those new pistons in though. The truck never started good after that. I have the original LDT pistons in and I couldnt be happier. It runs awesome now. It will be neat to see how it does in the cold weather starting. That will be a test.
So you put the original pistons back in, and now it runs good?
Well that defiantly rules out the cylinder heads. Guess you got a bad set of pistons, rings and sleeves.

Guess I was lucky to get a good set.
Hope yours keeps on running strong.
 

Wildchild467

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Milford / Michigan
So you put the original pistons back in, and now it runs good?
Well that defiantly rules out the cylinder heads. Guess you got a bad set of pistons, rings and sleeves.

Guess I was lucky to get a good set.
Hope yours keeps on running strong.
I put another engine in the truck. Before I put the "new" take out engine in, I honed the cylinders, installed new rings and bolted the heads down that came with the engine. I still think the heads were not the problem with my engine and it was the "new style LDS pistons" not sealing to the cylinders. But this engine I put together with new rings has been running fine. I have still been getting some blowby out of it but it has started good down to 20 degrees, so I'm done messing with it and throwing money in it. I would have thought with new rings, honing the cylinders with a 240 grit ball hone, I would not have gotten any blow by, but I still get a little. I could do compression check and leakdown tests again but i'm out of motivation to work on the engine for a while. EGT's are acceptable so I'm going to leave it and just accept the little blowby i have been getting. Maybe its not broke in all the way, maybe it is? who knows.
 
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