Please advise! Fuel filter replacement.

[whyme]

I know this is gonna be tough given I can't get pics up but here it goes:

I just removed the secondary fuel filter and just as I went to replace it with a new one I noticed a potential problem. The filter that I have appears to be an older NOS filter with a perforated metal skin surrounding the filter media and with cork gaskets at either end. The filter that I'm removing from the truck is what appears to be a newer style, the filter is not surrounded and there are heavy rubber gaskets at each end.

The question/prob I have is that within the canister there is simply a metal disk attached to the center rod, this obviously supports the filter. My concern is that by design the gasket on the older filter is held by crimping the metal around the inside diameter over the gasket. Because of this there is simply metal on metal at the base an no gasket to seal it. The filter I removed sealed just fine.

Where the canisters modified when the military changed over or did the old design just ignore the seal at the bottom??

I'm dead in the water till I get it together and I don't wanna put the old filter back in.

 

[doghead]

The metal on metal will be alright.

 

[OldDominionIron2]

I believe the only filters seal against the top of the filter housing. There are gaskets on both end of the filter so it can be put in in either direction. The filters I removed had the metal housing as well, and the ones I put in did not and they fit fine. I'll try to find some photos and add them to the thread.

 

[OldDominionIron2]

Going to where I had the filters I just changed out, I realized the oil filters had the metal shield, not the fuel filters. However, the new oil filters I put in didn't have the metal shield. I don't know if this helps you, but I think you're ok putting the filters that don't have the shield on them in. Here is the oil filter I took out.

 

[whyme]

Thanks for the quick response. Back out into the cold I go to finish

 

[DieselBob]

FWIW I would think you would want the inverted cup to seal the bottom of the filter. The second and final filter have a 10 micron rating or less and without a good seal there is the possibility of rather large particles bypassing the filter and passing to the ip head. Your mileage may very.

 

[whyme]

here is what im dealing with (now that i have access to a pc). i considdered flipping the little metal thing at the bottom but than there isnt anything to center the filter.

 

[whyme]

here is what im dealing with (now that i have access to a pc). i considdered flipping the little metal thing at the bottom but than there isnt anything to center the filter.


im sorry if this is a duplicate post but my computer went wacky, posts disapeared then reapeared then disapeared...

 

[DieselBob]

From the pics I would say you are good to go. I took it from your first post that there was, more or less, a flat washer in the can. I think you will find that the cork gasket is protruding slightly above the metal band that hols it in place to the filter body. Also the cup that the filter sits on is larger in diameter than the metal ring holding the cork on so it should seal the bottom of the filter.

 

[whyme]

its not protruding but i was thinking along those lines, i figured the cork would likely swell a tad and the pressure between the cup (im sorry i didnt have the correct term) would also likley cuase the metal lip to crimp a tad and flush the surfaces.

thank you everyone, i just wanted to be extra sure since it didnt seem right to me. no point changing filters if only to let the crap through anyway.

unfortunatly there was significant damage to the oring on the nut that secures the canister so im done until i can get a replacement.

 

[Floridianson]

I believe the only filters seal against the top of the filter housing. There are gaskets on both end of the filter so it can be put in in either direction. The filters I removed had the metal housing as well, and the ones I put in did not and they fit fine. I'll try to find some photos and add them to the thread.

I don't think so. All the ones I have seen will and can be disk up sealing to the cork on bottom. Wrong filters or something missing. Seems if I rember there should be something to seal the disk at the bottom as if it fits lose then unfiltered fuel could be pushed up the shaft passed the disk.
If I get to the trucks I can pull one off but that don't help now.

 

[jasonjc]

1) the shaft should have a o-ring or rubber washer. It should be spring , flat washer , o-ring/washer , cone shaped pice , cork , filter.

2) the metal holding the cork on is just pushed into the filter. I just tap mine out only takes a 10 sec. Then I put the cork on the cone shaped pice in the housing.

Hope this helps.

 

[Floridianson]

Think its washer spring washer O ring or fiber sealing washer then cup up. On the top there is fiber washer under securing bolt not O ring.

If nothing else just look at it till it makes sence that there is a good seal on top and bottom and the filter protrudes from the top of the canister enough that the spring will take up slack and the filter be tight in the housing.

Respctfully by removing the center metal pice in the filter could expose cork to the inside of filter then carried to the final or HH. I don't think you will find any instructions that say remove it. Its' there for a reason.

 

[WillWagner]

Try this, search is your friend!

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/5385-fuel-canister-set-up.html

Washer, spring, washer, seal ring, cup..cup side up...filter. Just like James stated.

 

[LowTech]

I've had to flip the cup w/ some filters. They didn't want to compress enough w/ it "cup up".

 

[Floridianson]

I've had to flip the cup w/ some filters. They didn't want to compress enough w/ it "cup up".

Then it's the wrong filter or some how you got the wrong parts going on.

 

[jasonjc]

Think its washer spring washer O ring or fiber sealing washer then cup up. On the top there is fiber washer under securing bolt not O ring.

If nothing else just look at it till it makes sence that there is a good seal on top and bottom and the filter protrudes from the top of the canister enough that the spring will take up slack and the filter be tight in the housing.

Respctfully by removing the center metal pice in the filter could expose cork to the inside of filter then carried to the final or HH. I don't think you will find any instructions that say remove it. Its' there for a reason.

The new 2006 361-24P does not show or list the frist washer. And in the tm and filter kit, it has a "gasket" for under the bolt ,that is a square cut O-ring that fits in the grove in the filter housing not a fiber washer. Now the wix filter 33511 (made for a Detroit Diesel engine) comes with a fiber washer and the housing O-ring that does not fit.

The center metal pice is just to hold the cork. The mil filter has a rubber gasket that is glued on. So it could also expose rubber to the inside of the filter.

 

[Floridianson]

You would think the rubber would not come apart in little pices like cork could. I have only seen the ones like in the pic. So if there are outher setups then one would just have to use common sence and get a good seal both around shaft and where filter base and retainer are. I have seen and heard of being put back wrong so that why I allways say do the fuel filters as soon as you get the machine and make it right if wrong.