Please recommend a transfer switch

[98G]

I'm looking for a plain Jane mechanical transfer switch to be used to connect a MEP802 to a house for use during power outages.

The primary user would be a >70yo woman, when the power goes out.

I figure someone here has one they like...

 

[ZiggyO]

GE Emergency Power Transfer Switch 100/200-Amp 240-Volt 1-Phase Non-Fused Manual | eBay

Fused Non-Fused. Phase Type 1 Phase. Electrical Product Type Transfer Switch. Automatic/Manual Manual. Single-phase, 3-wire SN, 200 Amp 120/240 VAC. We do not accept P.O. Boxes. Product Height (in) 10.

www.ebay.com

Works great for my purposes. I also use a pin and sleeve connector for the generator power inlet.

Z

 

[NDT]

Amp rating of her service?

 

[98G]

Amp rating of her service?

She probably has 200 amp service. But the MEP802 obviously can't run all of that.

Her furnace and water heater are gas. She's concerned about running the lights, the refrigerator, the furnace, and whatever other trivialities can be supported by the 802. We're going to go through her breaker box next time we're there and label the ones to be turned on when she's on genset power.

I'm going to put a 24v trickle charger on the 802, and i should be able to PM it a couple times a year.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Honestly she should be able to keep them all on, if those appliances are gas and have no high draw coils in them. Well pump? Whats the range, oven, and clothes dryer powered by?

 

[Light in the Dark]

I have a 200A service too, and I am able to run everything except my dryer without fault. Multiple fridges, multiple freezers, gas range, gas FHW, lights, tv, internet, well.

 

[NDT]

I have a 150A made by Reliance Controls and appreciate how simple it is.

200A:

reliancecontrols.com/products/reliance-controls-twb-series-manual-transfer-panel-4-8-circuits-metal-outdoor-twb2003dr

 

[msgjd]

She probably has 200 amp service. But the MEP802 obviously can't run all of that.

A transfer switch has to be sized no less than the rated amperage of the utility service .. It doesn't matter if the draw on the genny and genny size is less.. In most cases you will have to get the utility involved to pull the meter unless you are a service tech with your own meter seals issued by a utility, as I had been until retirement.. In some places there is no jurisdiction for residential services other than to let them know you need to pull the meter and they come out to reseal it.. Many jurisdictions require inspection of the install before the meter is put back in the can or otherwise service re-engergized. If you are lucky there might be a disconnect situated at the load side of the meter or integral with it, thus you could do the work undetected, but I didn't say that.

An alternative to messing with the service itself is a "Gentran" box. They are less-expensive than a 200A nema3 (outdoor) xfer switch , indoor-rated, and easy to install/use. However, a customer is restricted to the low number of circuits powered by the genny through these boxes and loses the ability to have power in every room. Last I recall, they did not make them larger than 12-circuit and 50-amp, and of course, most water pumps take up two of those right off the bat..

If someone needs flexibilty for the entire house (not everything running at same time of course) , they are better off with a xfer switch in the main service .. My favorites were 1980's-90's vintage Cutler-Hammer as well as Bryant-brand transfers, rugged and having a high-current fault service rating that exceeded all inspection and utility requirements. I had 5 different utilities to deal with in three states, their requirements weren't 100% the same

 

[Light in the Dark]

Does she have open breaker positions in her box? You could go even lower tech (but just as safe) and move the top RH (2) breakers and put a simple interlock kit in place. They make specific models, for specific breaker panels. They are low tech, and work perfectly every time (and are very easy to install).

All you do to use them is flip the main OFF, then slide up a little metal bar (which was blocking the top two breakers from moving) and engage those top two breakers. The bar will prohibit the movement of the main switch. Once you shut the genset breaker set off, the metal bar will drop, and you can reengage the main upon utility return.

Here is a representative example: https://www.amazon.com/Generator-Interlock-Siemens-Panel-Murray/dp/B08Y78NVTH

That is not a UL listed product, but a more reputable place like https://interlockkit.com would have UL and NEC approved items. All just comes down to knowing what panel she has.

 

[G744]

I called you...

 

[98G]

Does she have open breaker positions in her box? You could go even lower tech (but just as safe) and move the top RH (2) breakers and put a simple interlock kit in place. They make specific models, for specific breaker panels. They are low tech, and work perfectly every time (and are very easy to install).

All you do to use them is flip the main OFF, then slide up a little metal bar (which was blocking the top two breakers from moving) and engage those top two breakers. The bar will prohibit the movement of the main switch. Once you shut the genset breaker set off, the metal bar will drop, and you can reengage the main upon utility return.

Here is a representative example: https://www.amazon.com/Generator-Interlock-Siemens-Panel-Murray/dp/B08Y78NVTH

That is not a UL listed product, but a more reputable place like https://interlockkit.com would have UL and NEC approved items. All just comes down to knowing what panel she has.

That sounds like the ideal solution. I'll get a look at her panel and see what we're dealing with.

 

[98G]

I called you...

I called you back.

 

[98G]

This is what I'm working with. Presumably I can move a couple of breakers from the upper position to a lower position and use an interlock like LITD linked.

I'm obviously not an electrician, but I'm not clueless. I've wired in L14-50R welder access in the past, and I know enough to make sure that nothing is energized before I touch it.

I know enough not to make a suicide male/male cable, which is more than can be said for some...

 

[msgjd]

I know enough not to make a suicide male/male cable, which is more than can be said for some...

where's your sense of fun and adventure ?

I had one hanging on the back wall of the "storefront" at my shop .. Once in awhile I'd get a customer whose eyes would go wide

 

[Light in the Dark]

This is what I'm working with. Presumably I can move a couple of breakers from the upper position to a lower position and use an interlock like LITD linked.

I'm obviously not an electrician, but I'm not clueless. I've wired in L14-50R welder access in the past, and I know enough to make sure that nothing is energized before I touch it.

I know enough not to make a suicide male/male cable, which is more than can be said for some...

I assume the make and model is on the label on the door?

 

[98G]

I assume the make and model is on the label on the door?

I assume so. It's 400 miles away. I'm at the mercy of the pictures from the people there.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Well as soon as you get the good info share it. Happy to help find the best unit for that exact model.

 

[98G]

I assume the make and model is on the label on the door?

 

[Light in the Dark]

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Siemens-Standby-Power-Interlock-Kit-PON-125-Amp-and-Below/5012957113

And I got that part number from a 'SIEMENS Product Expert' review comment found here: https://www.homedepot.com/p/questio...ck-Kit-125-Amp-and-Below-ECSBPK04/203262158/2

 

[98G]

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Siemens-Standby-Power-Interlock-Kit-PON-125-Amp-and-Below/5012957113

And I got that part number from a 'SIEMENS Product Expert' review comment found here: https://www.homedepot.com/p/questio...ck-Kit-125-Amp-and-Below-ECSBPK04/203262158/2

I thank you profusely!