Power source for trailer wiring

[Not Alex]

Good afternoon ladles and jellyspoons. I'm still very new to my M1008 and I don't really know where anything is in it. I'm looking for a place that I can steal 12 volts from for a cigarette lighter, and the trailer brakes that I'll be using soon.

I planned on taking from the nato plug at the back for the trailer's power but the "K" pin, along with the other 3 in the middle of the plug aren't there. The rest I should be able to figure out myself. I just don't know where under the hood is a good place for getting 12v. It seems that I only get 12 volts from the front battery, since it's only the first in series. Is that my only option, or is there somewhere else that's more appropriate?

Thanks for any help. This truck is what's forcing me to learn electrical things. I've needed to get out of my mechanical comfort zone

 

[M813rc]

For 12v power in the cab, that is only on when the ignition is on, you can plug into either of the sockets in the fuse box indicated by the white arrows.
You'll have to add an in-line fuse as those sockets are not fused.

Someone else will have to advise on getting power to the trailer.

Cheers

 

[Not Alex]

For 12v power in the cab, that is only on when the ignition is on, you can plug into either of the sockets in the fuse box indicated by the white arrows.
You'll have to add an in-line fuse as those sockets are not fused.

Someone else will have to advise on getting power to the trailer.

Cheers

View attachment 916570

That is super helpful, thank you! That's really convenient to just have those right there.

 

[adf5565]

If you’re adding trailer brakes I’m assuming you’ll need a brake controller which means you’ll need to run the power in the cab first. For mine I tapped into the 12v block on the motor side of the firewall and ran it from there into the cab to the controller and then back out down the frame rail to the rear.

Hillbilly wizard used to make an adapter that ties into the CUCV rear wiring harness to power all the trailer lights. I haven’t seen one for sale recently but you could reach out and see if they’ll make you one. Your brake power wire from the controller can be added into that and then the truck is ready to go with the 7 pin plug.

 

[Not Alex]

If you’re adding trailer brakes I’m assuming you’ll need a brake controller which means you’ll need to run the power in the cab first. For mine I tapped into the 12v block on the motor side of the firewall and ran it from there into the cab to the controller and then back out down the frame rail to the rear.

Hillbilly wizard used to make an adapter that ties into the CUCV rear wiring harness to power all the trailer lights. I haven’t seen one for sale recently but you could reach out and see if they’ll make you one. Your brake power wire from the controller can be added into that and then the truck is ready to go with the 7 pin plug.

Okay, so I could just use the same wire that'll provide power to the controller and keep running it back for the trailer? I also don't know where that 12v block is on the firewall. Is it the thing in the very middle? It seems that the bars on the passenger side have 24v.

 

[adf5565]

Yeah it is right next to the glow plug solenoid. Or run it from the + of the first battery (check for it to have 12v). And something like this is what you’ll have to do for wiring the controller.

 

[Not Alex]

Yeah it is right next to the glow plug solenoid. Or run it from the + of the first battery (check for it to have 12v). And something like this is what you’ll have to do for wiring the controller.

View attachment 916574

Yep, that looks about right from what I've seen. It's in progress and should be done tonight. Thanks for the help!

 

[Jeepadict]

Hopkins makes a "T" connector for the factory civvy wiring, 100% plug and play for "4-flat" trailer lights.

There's a double stud device on the engine side of the firewall: large gauge and fuse from there along the frame to the rear. Going direct to the battery is optional.

Power for brake controller from the fuse block as listed above. You'll need to tee off the brake switch to controller. Run proper gauge Blue wire from controller thru firewall and along frame to rear with previous mentioned hot lead.

Hopkins has a 4-to-7 adapter kit with pigtails for ground, +12v batt, and brake...mount it and send it!

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