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Pre modding questions

kicker9898

Member
39
0
6
Location
oklahoma
Hello all, I have been accumulating accessories and finally have almost everything in to start installing in the 923.

1. 2 Pyle 720 watt DC-DC converters
2. Stereo
3. 2 Amplifiers
4. CB and aux speaker
5. 105 Watt LED lightbar
6. Assorted switches, relays, battery disconnect

To get 24v power to the converters, I am planning on running a 4 gauge wire to a grounding block, through an inline fuse. The block will split to three 8 gauge wires. 2 of these will go to the converters, and 1 will go to a Buss Bar or fuse box to be able to add additional 24V accessories later. I plan on running the power for the LED Lightbar from the buss/fuseblock.

The 12V feeds from the converters will go to 2 additional fuseblocks to wire the CB, Radio, Amps and any other 12V accessories.

A couple of questions if anyone wouldn't mind helping me avoid a meltdown because of a wiring mistake!

What kind of 24V solenoid do I need to be able to run a master switch on the dashboard to turn off the converters? Would this one work? http://www.amazon.com/Solenoid-Heav...d=1367831730&sr=1-5&keywords=24+volt+solenoid

I also have a keyed battery disconnect, although I would rather use a dash switch. Any reason not to use the disconnect?

Should the ground for the converters and 12V accessories be connected to the same location, and should they be grounded to battery negative or chassis?

Finally, the lightbar came with a wiring and a relay. Even though the lightbar itself will accept 24 V, the relay it came with is 12V. I want to run the lightbar off the 24V side, can I run the switch wire to the 12V side and the power wire to 24V or will this fry the relay?

Sorry for all the questions, any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Jason
 
194
2
16
Location
Norfolk, VA
A couple of questions if anyone wouldn't mind helping me avoid a meltdown because of a wiring mistake!

What kind of 24V solenoid do I need to be able to run a master switch on the dashboard to turn off the converters? Would this one work? http://www.amazon.com/Solenoid-Heav...d=1367831730&sr=1-5&keywords=24+volt+solenoid

Listed as 12v?
Probably, but I would go with a name brand
http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/173/24124/
essentially you need 24v 60amps just to run the converters so you will be getting close to the max if you start adding 24v accessories on the switched side of the solenoid.



I also have a keyed battery disconnect, although I would rather use a dash switch. Any reason not to use the disconnect?

I would use both. If you already have the disconnect.


Should the ground for the converters and 12V accessories be connected to the same location, and should they be grounded to battery negative or chassis?

Chassis is fine

Finally, the lightbar came with a wiring and a relay. Even though the lightbar itself will accept 24 V, the relay it came with is 12V. I want to run the lightbar off the 24V side, can I run the switch wire to the 12V side and the power wire to 24V or will this fry the relay?

Depends on relay, but should be ok. The part number of the relay would be helpful.



Jason
Jim
 

Suprman

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
6,860
693
113
Location
Stratford/Connecticut
No most of those solenoids have a duty cycle. You can go on the bay and get 24 volt bosch type relays they are good for 30 amps at 24 volts or get a pair of 12v ones and wire the coils in series. A member has nice 12v heavy duty bosch relays in the parts for sale section you can run 2 of these or you can cheat and tap off between a pair of batteries and get the 12v for the relay coil it is such a minimal draw it will not make a difference and just switch the ground from the relay coil. Me personally I like solid state relays if you get one make sure it is DC control. I would use separate relays and switches for the converters and the light bar you will want to switch them separately anways. I can tell you this fuse fuse fuse there is a boatload of current you are dealing with. If you drill holes to run wires thru use a grommet and make sure you use marine rated wiring all the cheap stuff wiring kits suck a little diesel will melt away the plastic coating on them. 2 amps? where do you plan on putting all the speakers? You must have the extended cab m923 I am in the process of shoehorning in a stereo setup in mine with the radio in a marine case mounted to the back of the seat with a 8" slim powered sub mounted next to it so I can still fold and open the battery box if I need to. I have a converter mounted in the passenger side open area in the battery box and I have a small amp I am putting in there also but I have no idea where I am going to put speakers. I tapped off the 12v between 2 batteries for the constant power memory lead for the radio and the 12v is switched. I bought a mechless unit its an alpine I can just connect an ipod to it and I have a remote. I dont know what I am doing about an antenna its a work in progress.
 

kicker9898

Member
39
0
6
Location
oklahoma
Thanks for the advice Jim :)

Super, I'm either going to mount 6.5" speakers in a bar overhead or try to put them in boxes in the cab corners. I think I'm going to run 1 or 2 6.5" bazooka tubes for bass. I have a couple of 8" RF Punch woofers, I ordered boxes for them and they came in today....too big to fit. What sub are you using? I may decide to only go with 1 amp and the 6.5's without subs, don't know yet. I'll hook the speakers up and see how they sound alone and go from there.

I have the CB mounted under the dash to the right of the shifter. I got a marine box for the stereo, it is a cd player though so vertical is out. It can be mounted up to 60 degrees so I may make a center console type holder for it and the CB.

1 other question, and I'm sure it's a dumb one but I want to make sure. The starter is connected to 2 batteries, and the slave receptacle is mounted to the other 2. Can I pull my 24 volt feed off either?

Got the lightbar mounted in it's custom cage on the front of the truck tonight. I'll try to post pics tomorrow.

Jason
 

kicker9898

Member
39
0
6
Location
oklahoma
Antenna

Oh and my am/fm signal is going to be coming from the CB antenna. Got a splitter from Firestik that sends the right signal to each unit.
 

Suprman

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
6,860
693
113
Location
Stratford/Connecticut
I have my radio (alpine mechless) mounted on the back of the bench seat. I have an iPod for it. After trying just about everything I ordered a slim all in one sub it's the size of an amp it's made to stash under a seat I am going to mount it on the back of the bench seat also. I will still be able to open and close the battery box. I have a pair of 4x10s I am going to try and mount in the top corners I have a hard top. I will add some pics tomorrow. I might add an antenna somewhere. The batteries are 4 12 volt batteries 2 each in series making 24 volts and then both pairs wired in parallel. You can grab 24 volts from either point there is a cable connecting them look where the slave positive lead comes off and follow a cable to the other pair of batts.
 

kicker9898

Member
39
0
6
Location
oklahoma
Let me know how the 4x10s work out. I looked at those , but from the reviews I wasn't sure how they would mount in the truck. Pioneer used to make truck speakers that surface mounted. I had some in my first truck, and they worked out great. Now the only surface mount speakers I can find are crappy chinese jobbies or the pioneer 4x10s.
I actually thought about using some home outdoor speakers and wiring them in parallel so they would be a 4 ohm load. Most of the ones I've found are too big though.
 

Suprman

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
6,860
693
113
Location
Stratford/Connecticut
Do you have a hard or soft top? I found speakers that work great with my hard top not sure with the soft top though. I will put up pics later.
 
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