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Pre-oiler Pump?

mbwarner

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Mentioned in another post. Is that a pump that loads all the empty places so you have immediate oil pressure when you start?

If so, where can I get one, how hard is it to install, how much, etc?

Thanks, fellas
 

Rebelpride

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Somebody needs to go back to mechanic school. Last time I looked there was all kinds of room under the hood. Plus the mess in the cab when theres a filter change. I'd be seriously pissed if I bought a truck and that was the way my prelube pump was installed.
 

bottleworks

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mbwarner said:
If so, where can I get one, how hard is it to install, how much, etc?
Search the Deuce modification forum (this forum is for stock items/issues). There are many posts ranging from installing a pre-made/commercially available system, or using an aircraft pump, or using a hand pump, or making a system and pump from scratch.

OD Iron's remote oil filter is a great compliment to any pre/post lube system.
 

dabtl

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Location
Denton, Texas
RE: Re: Pre-oiler Pump?

I am wondering, if the purpose is to fill the oil filters before starting, why not just use jatonka's spin on filter adapters? They cost far less, are much easier to install and maintain. Mine give virtually instant oil pressure at the start up.

Just thinking out loud.
 

cranetruck

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Meadows of Dan, Virginia
biodeucel said:
...... Reduces or eliminates idleing time....
Things to consider:
A hot engine should not be shut down without a cool down idling period to even out the temperatures, it's not only the turbo lube factor.

The purpose of the upside down oil canisters is to be able to heat the oil in the crankcase during cold conditions (Mil Spec). Highly viscous oil trapped in the oil filters will open the bypass valve and cause unfiltered oil to enter the galleries.
 

M543A2

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We have two trucks with the spin-on filters and are very happy with how quickly the oil pressure comes up. Don't forget, Oliver tractors and White tractors that use the same 478 motor that is in our trucks are equipped with spin-on filter bases. We have bought three from local salvage yards. There are two types, one is the complete cast iron filter base and the other consists of the adapter kit that goes on the current filter base. We gave $60 for the complete bases, and $5 for the adapter kit kind. Alas, the adapter kit is no longer available as new parts from White/Oliver dealers.
Regards Marti
 

SasquatchSanta

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Northern Minnesota
RE: Re: Pre-oiler Pump?

Here is a thread that shows the system I built.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=13265&postdays=0&postorder=asc

Because I live in a cold climate I chose to go with the pre-lube pump and high efficiency inverted top of block mounted filters that would drain down into the block.

I couldn't see going with remote filters that do not take advantage of engine heat to get the oil flowing trough them or top of motor mounted check valve filters (like Jatonka's) that have to be warmed up before the cold oil is warmed by engine heat to purge the filters and stop the bypassing. Logic says it's one thing to have instant oil pressure and another to have instant filtration. IMHO, having to clear a plug of below zero oil from a couple of filters on a 30-below morning isn't the fastest way to efficient filtration

I went with non-check valve (drain-down) #1970 five micron filters. If memory serves me properly the 1970s almost double the capacity requirement of the oil pump and the stock filters. I believe the Jatonka filters are somewhere around 16 to 20 micron.

To go for the ultimate in filtration I also chose to go with a remote Amsoil bypass filter. Unlike the main filters, it doesn''t worry me when the Amsoil filter bypasses for 30 minutes on a cold morning.

I take mechanical oil pressure readings between the oil pump and the 1970 filters, immediately after the 1970 filters and at the end of the oil gallery/at the turbo so I've got a pretty good idea of what's going on and when.

I use two oil pan heaters and two freeze plug coolant heaters. When I elect to build a fire in Rosie on a 30-below zero January morning the filters are clear of cold oil and the oil in the pan is warm. After running the pre-lube pump for approx 30 seconds and a shot of tequila sunrise (ether) Rosie has instant oil pressure AND instant filtration followed by instant activity on the fire deck.

If I lived in a warm climate I would probably elect to go with Jatonka's system AND and Amsoil bypass filter to make up for the 16 to 20 micron filter spec.

I hope this sheds some light on the overall logic as to go or not to go with a pre-lube system. Jatonka has a good system but IMHO his system isn't the optimum for all seasons.

In closing I'd like to say that building and installing a pre-lube system in a PITA.

I Hope this helps.
 

dabtl

Active member
2,053
7
38
Location
Denton, Texas
cranetruck said:
biodeucel said:
...... Reduces or eliminates idleing time....
Things to consider:
A hot engine should not be shut down without a cool down idling period to even out the temperatures, it's not only the turbo lube factor.

The purpose of the upside down oil canisters is to be able to heat the oil in the crankcase during cold conditions (Mil Spec). Highly viscous oil trapped in the oil filters will open the bypass valve and cause unfiltered oil to enter the galleries.
I use 15-40w Rotella T in mine. But, come to think of it,our coldest days are balmy compared to yours. :lol:
 

forgingahead

New member
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Location
b.i., hawai'i
i don't seem to be able to post new threads, nor again find some of the same ones i have seen... so i'll put this here...
i found a diy pre-oiler that might be good for somehere, i'm going to try it...it's too cheap and easy not to try it.
TheSamba.com :: Gallery - DIY Pre-oiler tool
no how to power hydraulics or 12/24v dilemmas, just hook up air supply line to idiotproof reservoir pushing oil to gallery.
 
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