Preping your deuce for paint

[Lindsaym151]

Im going to start preping my duece for paint this week, Im trying to find out any tricks from the great mass of owners.Is thier any system that worked for you?
Im trying to establish a thread that can take any one from ppoint a to final tape removal
Any comments &pictures would be appreciated!

 

[Pinz25086]

Take care sanding if it has CARC. Use a respirator as the dust is nasty for you.

 

[porkysplace]

It depends on your end purpose , if your looking at a show queen paint job or a motor pool paint job . A motor pool paint consists of either a rattle can or a brush job witch with my truck looked like they used a wire brush . Many of the show queen paint jobs are stripped to the frame blast painted in a booth and have a paint job better than ever came from the factory . Personally I see the motor pool paint job as more authentic to a MV .

 

[quiksilver1j]

Paint Removal

I just finished a little DiY frame restore on my M1031. If your goal is to get to bare metal then start with some aircraft paint stripper (buy the largest container ... i bought mine at autozone) it should be a Gel stripper not the aerosol. Wait about 20 min. and then scrap off as much paint as possible with a spackle tool. You will know the paint is ready to come off once it starts to bubble.

After rinsing off the stripper,work the stubborn paint with a braided wire wheel attached to an angle grinder. this will remove or at least scuff the surface of this paint.

At this point if all the paint isn't removed, then you need to repeat this process as required until all the paint has been removed. I found this was the quickest and easiest way to remove paint/rust from large areas. Hope this helps!

 

[Bill W]

If your not going with sandblasting the whole truck down to bare metal then I would start by pressure washing and degreasing the whole truck using a turbo tip, that will get rid of oily surfaces and get out all the loose paint/debri in the hard to reach areas. I spent about 1 1/2hrs doing mine with a 4000psi washer

My M-35 redo: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/paint-bodywork/53338-so-begins-but-never-ends.html

 

[dikwks]

A needle gun will remove paint pretty well on the heavier pieces like the frame and bed. It's probably not so good on the lighter metal of the cab. It won't make dust and the flakes are easier to clean up than dust. Follow with a light sanding and wipe with a solvent,and you're good to go. I used rustoleum rusty metal primer, a light coat of rustoleum flat black, and then a coat of properly colored semi-gloss house paint. That has held up very well for 10 months now.

 

[mcmullag]

steet paint job

I used a sanding block to rough up the paint on the truck (was faded green) and would then take it up the street to the carwash and rinse it off and finish with the 'spot free rinse' mode and then used spray cans from Rapco. I did sections at a time and did it free hand.

 

[two.fiveM35]

mcmullag, i like the names on your windshields.

 

[ryan77]

I just painted mine, use a wire wheel from Menards $5.00 with a angle grinder, A 6" da sander and a pressure washer!! Wear a respirator and goggles. Use a self etching primer on any area with rust!

 

[ryan77]

Heres some pics!

 

[JCKnife]

I just finished a little DiY frame restore on my M1031. If your goal is to get to bare metal then start with some aircraft paint stripper (buy the largest container ... i bought mine at autozone) it should be a Gel stripper not the aerosol. Wait about 20 min. and then scrap off as much paint as possible with a spackle tool. You will know the paint is ready to come off once it starts to bubble.

After rinsing off the stripper,work the stubborn paint with a braided wire wheel attached to an angle grinder. this will remove or at least scuff the surface of this paint.

At this point if all the paint isn't removed, then you need to repeat this process as required until all the paint has been removed. I found this was the quickest and easiest way to remove paint/rust from large areas. Hope this helps!

This is what I'm doing as well. Although I have found the Kleen Strip brand stripper MORE effective and LESS noxious than the aircraft stripper.

I got mine at Lowes.

 

[Truckoholic]

Mine goes something like:

Remove every last little light, data plate, mirror, window and anything else that I don't want destroyed.

Sandblast entire truck right down to bare metal.

Use kitty hair fiberglass body filler to fix the rust holes.

Sand that down.

Use lightweight body filler to fill in the tiny holes and sand paper scratches in the fiberglass body filler.

Sand that down.

Go over the entire truck with surface cleaner and a bunch of rags to remove any oils that might be on the surface.

Spray Gillespie black zinc phosphate primer from Rapco (used to use grey primer til I discovered it looks so much like clean freshly sandblasted metal that I could not tell where I had and had not sprayed primer, so now I use black with a much higher contrast)

Sand the primer smooth since it tends to go on kind of rough.

Then spray the green paint.

Then spray the flat black, and tan if I am going for three color.

Put windows, mirrors, lights and everything else back on, and then be afraid to drive the **** thing anywhere because I don't want to mess up my lovely paint job, and wish I had just left it just the way it was when I brought it home from the GL lot

 

[Lindsaym151]

Do you guys recomend ospho on the rust before priming? Also talked to Behr rep today. He said the tinting machines at Home depot have been changed and the old 383 paint code will come out darker ,like vietnam era color. I will take a fresh sample of carc 383 to homo depot in the am for rematch. iwill post when i get home

 

[gungearz]

Sorry... There is no easy way. The most important thing to remember is that the more you prepare for paint. The better the paint job will be. I use a 5" DA sander with 80g paper to cut real thick paint. Work one panel at a time. Try not to cut past the primer unless there is a rust spot that needs attention. Its a slow but very rewarding process. Sometimes I just rattle can it but I also use a 16oz HVLP gun to shoot on the paint. On a deuce with a cover on and to lazy to remove it. Just roll it up and throw a tarp over it and go to town. For a CUCV just mask the windows and mirrors and your ready to spray... Have fun. Hope this helps.

 

[two.fiveM35]

Thanks for all the info. It will be helpful when I buy my future M818

 

[lavarok]

Do you guys recomend ospho on the rust before priming?

I use ospho regularly on rusty or bare metal. I dont use latex paints. The last couple paint jobs were done with Rapco Gillespie for green and brown, both using rattle cans and a HVLP sprayer. For the black, I usually just buy rustoleum flat black.

When doing camo, I spray a base coat of green and cut the black and brown camo patterns in free hand using the rattle cans. Because the black always likes to overspray, I go back through and sharpen the lines with green in a rattle can.

 

[Heavysteven]

My secret for what it's worth. Pressure wash to blast off the loose CARC. Them primer from lowes, Rapco green, Rapco brown, and BBQ grill black paint. Let it dry a day and then go over every thing with tire shine. The tire shine gives it that wet look.

I brush in the tire shine and then rinse it down. Takes a couple days to dry out but looks good for 4 months. I repeat this process problely twice a year.

 

[EWhytsell]

I just took my cab top and rear section down to bare metal to clean up some rust that was about to ruin them. I used abrasive discs and it took probably 10-15 hrs to remove all the paint, but it was perfect and shiny when I was done. Then I put down 4 layers of primer and 3 coats of paint and its pretty nice. That was my first time doing body work on anything and its not perfect, but it'll pass. I used a roller for the paint.

I also went over the rest of the cab with a roller to fix up the rest of the paint.

 

[JCKnife]

My secret for what it's worth. Pressure wash to blast off the loose CARC. Them primer from lowes, Rapco green, Rapco brown, and BBQ grill black paint. Let it dry a day and then go over every thing with tire shine. The tire shine gives it that wet look.

I brush in the tire shine and then rinse it down. Takes a couple days to dry out but looks good for 4 months. I repeat this process problely twice a year.

Aren't you building up a lot of layers? Twice a year seems like a lot.

 

[ICAT]

Having just finished painting my deuce, the best advices is to make .a plan and remember to be flexable. Read everything you can and ask lots of question. I say this having not done any of it until I was about half way done. I had a lot of do overs.