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pressurewasher sandblaster attachment

Heath_h49008

New member
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Kalamazoo/Mich
That would last a few seconds in my blaster.

One thing you will note with the wet blasters, they like to use the sand. Although I have been told it can be throttled down with practice and fine tuning. The major issue for many commercial operators will be that the media CAN NOT be easily reused. You would need a way to collect, dry and then sift the media. Drying would be the really hard part with collecting a close second.

Media is cheap enough with Home Depot sand, I really don't care. Some might.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
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113
Location
Schertz TX
Be careful. The distortion comes from two factors when you blast thin metal... heat (which isn't a problem with the water blaster) and "peening" from each bit of sand acting like a tiny hammer-blow stretching the metal.

I plan to use it on my 1964 Fairlane 500 this spring/summer, if that tells you how safe I think it will be.

I also tested it on a trashed decklid I had from my 2003 Taurus... it cut the paint and didn't seem to have any ill effects. Personally, I think it's safe.

YMMV
The paint on the vehicle in question is chalked and aged, it doesn't appear to be primed either as it is easily chipped. I just don't want to have to use a wire wheel over the entire vehicle. The sand will also work well on rust spots, there are a few due to the poor prep work.

Yes, it is an FMV. That had been stripped of CARC and repainted white, hence the need for getting it back down to bare metal.
 

seastallion

New member
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Location
candia/new hampshire
The military uses a non toxic chemical on there equipment.you can buy it by the gallon,5 gallon and up.To get rid of the rust.You can buy it at advanced auto parts ,Also 3 M makes a product but is a little more expensive.It willl take away heavy rust.Just rinse off with a hose.Apply more coats for heavier rust .Just keep it damp until it does its stuff.I use towels emersed with the solution and keep it in a cool place with plastic covering it.It does a great job....Also most shops that dont want to burn out there compressors rent a machine with a 5 horsepower motor.It will run 11 cfm all day .Thats more then enough cfm.Most of my sand blasting i try to get done in 1 or 2 days.To rent i think they get 80.00 a day to rent,Maybe bargains on the week end.Good luck...I charge 25.00 an hour to do restoration work out of my house in NH.603-799-9699
 

71tr

New member
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Location
Or
Any updates on this idea? Thinking about trying it, with pool filter/play sand that is filtered and running Hold Tight through the soap port.
 

Doug Roberts

Member
285
4
18
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
I've done this , and regret it . It's a lot of work. You can roll on dry days , but any humidity get in the air and your sand grit will clump. I use a grinder with a waffle pad ( use a respirator) . Just wipe clean with acetone , prime with Rustoleum Rust Resistant primer , and you'll move through the truck in no time
 

rcamacho

Well-known member
770
850
93
Location
Bainbridge Island Wa
Interesting read, I'm also thinking about picking up a sandblaster attachment for my pressure washer use on heavy parts. For thin parts I understand these units can feed other abrasives and soda if needed.
 

Aruba1

New member
48
0
0
Location
BHM
I have my sandblaster attachment sitting by the door so I can send it back to Northern Tools in the morning. I tried different sand sizes, I added a valve to control the sand delivery, etc and nothing works. When the sand flows consistently it just dulls the paint and then it has the intermittent burst where it just dumps sand for 1-3 seconds and goes back to the light sand flow. Mine was connected to a good pressure washer (2700 psi), a portable abrasive blaster from HF (gray one) and a large 5hp compressor. Probably it would have worked with a large pressure washer and a pressurized blaster.
 
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