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Procedure for using spare tire(s) without CTIS hardware?

jaws4518

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I would like to switch out tires on my 1083. I have the CTIS controller cable unplugged because I want to run tires @70-80 lbs anyway. What do I need to do? Does CTIS only work with split rims? I have some tires on rims that have the control valve hole in the rim. I guess that is what the hole is for?? I just want to change out tires for now. I will worry about the CTIS system later.
 

GeneralDisorder

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The CTIS can be set to 81 psi by switching the 1911 wire to the controller from power to open (cut the wire or install a switch). Here's my thread on how to change the CTIS settings without programming. You can do even more with the Dana software and an RP1210 adapter/laptop.


CTIS works with any wheel that has a compatible valve stem (or you figure some way to adapt it) and the capability to mount the valve.
 

GeneralDisorder

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I'd do it like this:

Unplug the controller (and leave it unplugged)
Install the spare
Manually inflate all tires to desired psi
It takes literally a couple minutes to find, cut and insulate the 1911 wire to the controller and now it will inflate them to 81 psi for you. 🤷‍♂️

Just my personal opinion. But I have my truck setup to run cargo or bobtail pressure at the flip of a switch. If the CTIS valve will work with the new rim it will literally be faster to cut that wire and walk away while the truck adjusts the pressure than it would be to sit there with a hose and inflate them manually. I'm all for the easy button when it's actually easier but some application of brain power to this problem will save labor now and in the future.
 

jaws4518

Cold Beer
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Abilene, Texas
I'd do it like this:

Unplug the controller (and leave it unplugged)
Install the spare
Manually inflate all tires to desired psi
I already did that. I need to replace all of the tires though. Different rims without the CTIS control valves. I have new tires on alloy rims. Some might support the CTIS hardware but that I'm not sure about. Do I need to plug anything off on the wheel drum?
 

Ronmar

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Well in the end it is just a hub and wheel. The wheel of course needs the one larger lug hole to fit over the hollow air wheel stud to be mounted. Beyond that a Schrader valve core in the wheel stem to hold the air in the tire?
 

Ronmar

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Port angeles wa
I already did that. I need to replace all of the tires though. Different rims without the CTIS control valves. I have new tires on alloy rims. Some might support the CTIS hardware but that I'm not sure about. Do I need to plug anything off on the wheel drum?
Not if you unplug the controller… you could screw a plain bolt into the hollow wheel stud to keep crap out of it…
 

jaws4518

Cold Beer
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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22
18
Location
Abilene, Texas
Well in the end it is just a hub and wheel. The wheel of course needs the one larger lug hole to fit over the hollow air wheel stud to be mounted. Beyond that a Schrader valve core in the wheel stem to hold the air in the tire?
Ok, This is all new to me and I haven't even removed one of these combat rims yet. I have several tires out of round, one has a major flat spot. I have a bunch of 18-22.5 (20 ply) jumbos which have been great. They are old as hell but 95% tread on them. I'm off-road most of the time so they are perfect. I haven't had one fail yet. I use my (NOS) XZL 395/85 for my drive tires. These are load rated for 11.5K. I've put a 22k load gravel on my dump and it was very stable. I would not do any more than that, nor could I. I have 8" risers on the 5 yard bed. That is a heaping 9 yard load. :D 18k is about as much as I like to put on the 5 ton dump. Anyway, thanks again for getting me past some of these issues. I will update after these go on.

IMG_4350.JPGIMG_4349.JPG
 

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