clinto
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Project Ferro Navy M37
- Thread starter zout
- Start date
M-37Bruce
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Hey Clinto, Where is that Radar Site with the snow?
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On a side note, when did the Air Force stop using Strata Blue to paint their trucks? I assume sometime in the mid-1970s when the services all adopted the 4-color MERDC camo pattern?
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Drivers fender and grille to get sanded down and also the entire box to blast up - once I know I am blasting the box I will get the body paint - frame I will do last. Also my new $372 air compressor motor came today and I had to get that swapped out and onto business.
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They sure don't give them motors away for good conduct and outstanding photography, do they? Tools, gotta have 'em, if ya want to get it done. Ya just keep rockin, there Commander!
God bless,
Tony
God bless,
Tony
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Will that puppy be done in time for the Gathering on Friday? 
Carter
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"...frame I will do last.
Why last?
Why last?
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The shiny metal looks so good you may want to just clear coat the whole thing and forget paint 
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Hey! How about doing the whole vehicle in a faux wood finish. Perfect for all you natural wood lovers. ![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]")
clinto
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Sorry, no clue. Was looking for strata blue truck pics and found somebody's album on the g503 photo albums. He had a lot of USAF pics so he might know. I can find it again and see if I can get you come contact info if you'd like.
- 7,744
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Carter - great question BTW. Here is my best attack answer.
Cab is not going to get removed - so all the chassis under the cab will have to be sprayed selectively.
Rear chassis that has the box removed will get sprayed while the rear of the cab is papered off (because this will have already been in paint). And this done after I blast up the frame.
For under the cab - it will be easier for me to either paper off open areas and or spray a water borne masking on the body areas that can be washed off so there is no overspray on any of the painted body parts.
Either way - I would have to mask the chassis to paint the cab or mask the body to paint the chassis. Only the under area from back of cab to the nose.
Hope this helps.
Fender/grille should all be done tonight and into bare metal 2k primer. Then I'll pop the hood and get the seams and engine area masked off. Then onto the box blasting.
Cab is not going to get removed - so all the chassis under the cab will have to be sprayed selectively.
Rear chassis that has the box removed will get sprayed while the rear of the cab is papered off (because this will have already been in paint). And this done after I blast up the frame.
For under the cab - it will be easier for me to either paper off open areas and or spray a water borne masking on the body areas that can be washed off so there is no overspray on any of the painted body parts.
Either way - I would have to mask the chassis to paint the cab or mask the body to paint the chassis. Only the under area from back of cab to the nose.
Hope this helps.
Fender/grille should all be done tonight and into bare metal 2k primer. Then I'll pop the hood and get the seams and engine area masked off. Then onto the box blasting.
Carter
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Makes perfect sense to me, thank you.
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Your welcome.
If this helps here is the overspray masking agent I use. When I know I am just too close to get this on to areas I do not want masked like just end of inner fenders to frame that will get sprayed a different color I brush it on.
http://3mcollision.com/3m-overspray-masking-liquid-06854-15-gallon.html
I do not pressure wash this stuff off - I use the garden hose with the very light spray (remember we're using a water based paint and fresh on top of it).
Hopefully before leaving for CAMO Friday I can finally get at least something done to the 37 - this one seems like I am in slow motion.
If this helps here is the overspray masking agent I use. When I know I am just too close to get this on to areas I do not want masked like just end of inner fenders to frame that will get sprayed a different color I brush it on.
http://3mcollision.com/3m-overspray-masking-liquid-06854-15-gallon.html
I do not pressure wash this stuff off - I use the garden hose with the very light spray (remember we're using a water based paint and fresh on top of it).
Hopefully before leaving for CAMO Friday I can finally get at least something done to the 37 - this one seems like I am in slow motion.
Carter
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I need to get my head back into the restoration end of this hobby, I have another truck that needs work and I did not know such a product was available. Years ago when I did my trucks painting I could have used a product like this, thank you for bringing this to my attention. This will be a big help on the one I am about to start.
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Product originated for spray booths to make cleanup easier. Hobbiest use a simular version of this for detailing models.
I have seen it used by artist air brushing. If you are carefull enough you can spray this on - use an exacto knife and cut out patterns just like stencils - then remove the entire product by washing and WA LA - there is your stencil painted and everyone will think you busted your butt doing it.
I have seen it used by artist air brushing. If you are carefull enough you can spray this on - use an exacto knife and cut out patterns just like stencils - then remove the entire product by washing and WA LA - there is your stencil painted and everyone will think you busted your butt doing it.
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Adam - got done what I wanted to get done plus a little more.
You might want to consider getting a piece of hood welting with the rivets to replace the one MIA on the rear of the hood to cowl - this flipping around wears and thins out the metal on the hood - your call.
Here is what gone done - I also went back and ground out more of the deeper rust just to make sure no more flakes were laying in the areas.
You might want to consider getting a piece of hood welting with the rivets to replace the one MIA on the rear of the hood to cowl - this flipping around wears and thins out the metal on the hood - your call.
Here is what gone done - I also went back and ground out more of the deeper rust just to make sure no more flakes were laying in the areas.
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- 7,744
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Putting pics on this site sucks - 
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We love high build primer
sweeeeettttttt
I'm count Swiss and I approve of this great restore
sweeeeettttttt
I'm count Swiss and I approve of this great restore
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I will order one tomorrow. Probably should get the fender welts too huh?
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Can you install them without removing the fenders? Would be very tight...