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Project Time Once Again

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zout

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Clinto - really just going my normal "pace" all I know how to do is work. Was spending a lot of time just comparing both chassis's in differences.

These are a lot of fun to work on and when you really look at them - they are just minature trucks.

I was curious comparing what engines I am familar with on how oversize they go on crank bearings and mains before they actually have the tendancy to spin - looking on the parts site - I see they go as large as .080 over!! man that seems extreme. Also see the pistons already .040 over and wondered how much long term tendancy and longegity going any larger would be.


PB - thanks for the heads up on parts - I have a mental pic of what is needed - and it fades fast when I burn up brain cells sippin your hooch.:beer:.

I did print all the TM manuals on the 38 for references as well this past week.
 

zout

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Still debating on the oversize rod bearing question - being an ole timer - .030 would be the end of the trail for me that I would normally go on rod bearings - unless anyone that might read this blah blah blah has an opinion from experience of going larger. Some of the reputable parts houses carry up to .080 oversize - holy cow - but that may be me - Input if you like on this.

Rippin down Dingers unit - rear diff removed and cleaned up a tremdous amount of build up debris off the frame - eventually will flip this and get the underside so it can be degreased again - and rust converter put on it - then expoxy primer then paint er pink :-D.

We cleaned out one of our buildings and wa la - there were floresent light fixtures to be had - garage is now a surgical room.

Here are some more boring pics
 

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papabear

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That frame "appears" to be in darn good shape...we've had to "scab" a couple of ours to make them safe/roadworthy.:)

On a sad note...that rear axle seems to be missing the passenger side dinglearmroflrofl
 

zout

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It is a sad thing it is missing the crucial part - BUT - the happy news is - it has a dingaling working on it with Fisher Price tool box rofl
 

zout

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Gonna take a break from this madness this Sat and invade a compound south of here. Just as well I bring some melon juice to soften up some brain cells and ask some techie questions while I am there (there are a bunch of smart fellers down there) see which one can last the longest and that is the one I will listen to:deadhorse:.
Bringing 12 items for a friend down there that can surely use em as well. Its a pleasure to be invited down there to join in - its like being in candy land. If I can hold my hands steady after getting there I may take a few pics for evidence and blackmail.
 

zout

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Found a very reputable engine rebuilder a short ways from the house that has experience on these engines.

To my above question on oversize - when to stop - being that this is not a high rev'ing engine where as other engines rpm's run to - this is basically an industrial engine - low rpm and solid as a rock. So going out to that .080 is not a fictious number for oversize on the crank.

Only appears from running the mic on it - it will need another .010 on the #1 journal. Also getting the cyl head rebuilt as well - no reason not to. That will put the crank at .030 for the bearings and just hone up the bores and leave them at .040.

Will get the block torn down and hopefully within the next week or so get it dropped off at the rebuilder and machined - get the piceces back so I can stick er together.

Will get the remainder of Dingers frame torn down - cleaned up - more degreasing - rust converter on it and epoxy primed and painted. Then get started back on the 38 of my wife's.
 

zout

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PB's cookout was FANTASTIC and the group of folks there are SPECTACULAR - if you ever get an opportunity to visit these folks - take it.

PB assised in helping with an F engine that appears to be stock and no machine work done on it - this is for the 38 of my wife's.

@1 piston had a chunk out of it around the top lip = this may have been the culprit in #1 rod spinning as well. The donated engine is in the air at sundown tonight and will pull the pan to see if it is truely stock - this was a great help in getting her unit opertational.

Dinger65 got his framework pressurewashed again - all added on BS crap over the years removed and cleaned up - this frame looks awesome. Little more work to do before it is brushed down with rust converter.

Thanks to PB and the awesome group of friends down there - I need to move to Columbus.
 

zout

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If you look around there are a few available.

I am not looking to "restore" back to OEM condition and make a mantle piece out of my wife's and nor is Dinger65. We are cleaning up his to rid itself of the added on items foks have done to it over the years and my wife's does not require what I would condsider a tremendous amout of work.

We want the frames cleaned up and protected and mechanically sound and operational - besides that we are going to drive them and use them.

Check on the Web - you will find one within your purchase needs - but do nto overlook your abilities - skill level - available tools and final the condition of a jeep - you might want to pay a little more that will save you bundles in the end.
 

clinto

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Z, I have a parts A1 frame that is mostly good... it's rust free and straight but has had a typical GM Saginaw power steering box crudely welded to the front. It would make a good parts frame.

I'll be happy to bring it along with your parts tub this week. My Dad or Dave are coming over one night to help me load it into the D250.
 

zout

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Thanks Clinto

Dingers frame area where the master cylinder mounts is rusted out - his has the steer gear with the shaft and steer wheel. I am going to fab this bracket - the frame right under this area is "thin" and looking to fab in a new small section to this. Otherwise his frame is really looking good - should have taken a pic of it - will do this tomorrow and post them.

Using your tub - he needs the front bumper - and I am removing the - whatever it was - off the rear along with the two 45 degree support arms along with it - as these were something other than what they were suppose to be.
Fab him up the 50 cal mount that belongs on the rear crossmember as well.

Springs and hangers wil be on the first agenda for his after frame repair and paint.
 

zout

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Here are pics of Dingers frame how clean it came.

Got the donated engine ripped down - #3 cyl was packed full of dirt and rust and walnuts -pistons were frozen solid - got the pan off and the rod bearings are .010 and crank looks really good. Cyl head is for chit - lots of corrosion - but the other head is good.

Was hoping to be able to snatch another piston out the donated block - got them all soaking in trans fluid right now to see they might break loose :jumpin:.

So with using the orignal block with bore at .040 over - take the crank from the donor engine and swap getting it back down into a less oversized cutting. Locate another piston if the others don't want to break loose and get it sent off to the machine shop. Then continue on with the wife's 38 and spend some time on Dingers unit on the frame sections.
 

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zout

In Memorial
In Memorial
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Got both engines taken down as far as I wish to go for the engine rebuilder - here is what is happening:
Remove the crank out of PB's donated engine as it is .010 over - pistons are in with the grip of god - frozen solid - will let the rebuilder remove a rod if he needs one.

Rebuild the engine that was removed - was hoping the pistons were not in the shape they were as the block as well was only .010 over - the original is .040 - so it looks like we stick with the removed block and slight honing to bring the bores back up to spec with new rings only.

As you remember #1 rod bearing was spun in the take out engine.

Worked on Dingers frame as well - he is shocked everytime he comes over as it was not in the same position as he left it - love working on it as it is out in the wide open. Used rust converter - other side he still has come cutting to do to the frame update to the dual brake master cyl with its mount bracket. Plus repair that section of frame about 2 1/2 ft of it - most likely will install an inner liner in it.

Sat the wife's rollin chassis out side to I can pressure wash it more.

While I was sanding I was reminded of the different colors that had been painted on the body over the years - reminds me of how your body looks after having a malfunction and have to pop your reserve chute - it opens so hard it leaves you body in different colors of brusing from your harness - better than crashing tho aua if you ever had been in an accident and had your seat belt hold you from smashing into the dash - you will know what I mean.

The tub will be about 500 pounds lighter with just primer and paint on it instead of primer-paint-more primer and paint and then primer and paint - yes there were 5 colors on the tub.:p
 

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zout

In Memorial
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thx - been struggling between the jeeps and the master bathroom I tore apart over a month ago to re-tile the shower in travertine tile - Deb has been very calm about the whole ordeal.

I do need to get a body panel for both sides just in front of the step in area (cowl) - the rust damage is not that large. That will include replacing both pass and driver side foot panels and a new tool box. Did not get a pic of the tailgate as it is kind of dark on the backside - but that had a lot of damage to it as well - too much body work and a new panel would repair it correctly.

The Chassis needs a few minor components -but that is outside to get pressure washed again tomorrow.

Will stick after the body and at least get the panels replaced and into primer.

I did have two of the grandsons down there today and they had a ball working with the orbital sander and wearing a paint mask again.

I appreciate the input.

PB - that piece of tin we did not know what it was but you knew I needed it - it is the framework for the glovebox :mrgreen:.
 
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