Proper trailer for 802A

[boxer4luvr]

I'm in the process of prepping for an 802A. Am considering mounting it on a trailer rather than permanent mount. Grabbed a used 4x8 utility trailer from a friend... running the numbers now, rather than BEFORE the purchase idea and am realizing 4x8 may not be enough trailer.
For width I see the unit is 31.8" with each side access panel being 18", for a full-access width of ~68"... ball park of 6'.

OK... so mount it transverse rather than longitudinal. 50.4" overall length with 10.8" access panels on the end, for 61.2" in that dimension... just a bit over 5'.

Has anyone used a 4x8 utility trailer successfully? Am I looking at needing to remove a couple sections of side support in order for the side access panels to swing open?
The bottom of the side panel doors appears to be ~8" high, which would contact the side supports of the trailer.

Anyone have a comment other than "Measure FIRST dumba$$" ?


Thanks,
Jon

 

[98G]

Why reinvent the wheel?

The military mounts these on M1101 chassis and M116A3 chassis. Probably a little more $ for a lot more trailer.

If you're cheap, and have enough truck to pull it, consider an m105 chassis....

 

[Bmxenbrett]

The doors are about 6in off the ground when opened up. If your fenders are taller just block it up with some 4x4s. It will just make it easier to work on too.

 

[boxer4luvr]

Yeah, I was hoping/willing to find one mounted on a trailer, but found a SS member who had an 802A on hand, but no trailer included.

 

[lonesouth]

M103 and M105 are way too much IMO.

 

[FloridaAKM]

A M-103A3 will hold two M-802A's & is lighter than a M-105A2.

 

[boxer4luvr]

Soo...... FloridaAKM.... how 'bout that 1987 M103A3 Kasel Genset Trailer ?

 

[FloridaAKM]

I have the 802A & 803A for it, so it is spoken for now as my hurricane backup.

 

[lonesouth]

M103 is also a VERY large trailer. If you can weld, I'd say build your own, rather than go with something that isn't as good a fit.

 

[Zed254]

Another option is an M1101/M1102. I picked my 802 up with my M1101 and there it sat until I was able to score a proper LTT-HC generator trailer. The M1101 was a wee bit tight when opening the doors because I didn't think to put dunnage under it (just had a 1/4" rubber mat), but the doors did open enough for access inside box.

 

[98G]

Empty M105A2 weighs 2750lbs. Remove the bed and you're dropping 900lbs or so. The 802 weighs 800lbs.

This yields a 2600lb total. You have the whole airbrake thing etc, but if the tow vehicle is a lifted one ton for instance it'd be do-able. If you're only occasionally transport it it'd be do-able.

My understanding is the M103 chassis is the same as the 105.

The 116 and 1101 chassis are ideal, but a bit more costly.

Diesel welders are frequently found on small trailers. One of these would be nearly ideal as well, in terms of dimensions and weight.

 

[boxer4luvr]

M103 is also a VERY large trailer. If you can weld, I'd say build your own, rather than go with something that isn't as good a fit.

That's an excellent point. I can't weld but I do have a friend who can.

Thanks

 

[lonesouth]

yep, 103 and 105 share the chassis. I got a powerplant, 2x803, last year. Took one off and did a permanent install at my house, sold the other on the trailer. Even with the lunette flipped, you'd need a substantial rise in the hitch to tow it level. Not a problem if you only move it occasionally, but not something I would want to tow more than once a quarter. The height also makes maintenance a problem, getting up and down, and I still consider myself somewhat young and spry. I had looked into getting a drop axle to replace, but that it almost as much work as building one from scratch, and then you get a standard coupling, exact dimensions, and a lighter overall package.

 

[Guyfang]

There are severl applications that the Army use, to get around the lack of space to open the generator doors, on the trailer. On one that I worked on, the gen set was elevated high enough that the doors were higher then the sides of the M1101 trailer. I might be able to find some info on it if anyone is interested.

Another method I used, was to remove the hinge pins, or better said, ground off the bottom of the hinge pin. The pin is nothing more then a big rivet. So I ground off the bottom end. Open the door, pull out the pin, pull the door away, perform work, replace door. It was a little bit of a PITA at first, but worked well. Later, I found a quick release pin, with the right diameter. It was much easyer it get out, and would not come out until you pressed the little button in the middle. Great answer to the problem.

BUT, yes there is a but. But, the Army has a regulation against "modifying" Army equipment. It's alright to modify something, as long as the equipment can be returned to the original configuration in a timely manner. AND, yes, and, and you need to get permission from the proper command. CECOM, for gen sets. As a civilian, I could not "petition" CECOM to allow this. But a helpful young Major took that under his wing. We modified two units, (communication units, power generation heavy) about 60-70 gen sets.

So there are are work arounds.

 

[jamawieb]

I'm in the process of prepping for an 802A. Am considering mounting it on a trailer rather than permanent mount. Grabbed a used 4x8 utility trailer from a friend... running the numbers now, rather than BEFORE the purchase idea and am realizing 4x8 may not be enough trailer.
For width I see the unit is 31.8" with each side access panel being 18", for a full-access width of ~68"... ball park of 6'.

OK... so mount it transverse rather than longitudinal. 50.4" overall length with 10.8" access panels on the end, for 61.2" in that dimension... just a bit over 5'.

Has anyone used a 4x8 utility trailer successfully? Am I looking at needing to remove a couple sections of side support in order for the side access panels to swing open?
The bottom of the side panel doors appears to be ~8" high, which would contact the side supports of the trailer.

Anyone have a comment other than "Measure FIRST dumba$$" ?


Thanks,
Jon

The trailer is plenty big enough because I've had several people pick up generators on a 5x8. The only thing I would do, is make a platform on the trailer to rise the generator up enough so you will be able to open the doors. Beneath the platform, could yield you enough space to put an aux. fuel tank. Wink Wink.

 

[69birdman]

My 4x8 harbor freight trailer would be about right for an 802a, I'm maxed with an 803a on it but I only move it around my property or neighbors farm.

 

[NormB]

I'm in the process of prepping for an 802A. Am considering mounting it on a trailer rather than permanent mount. Grabbed a used 4x8 utility trailer from a friend... running the numbers now, rather than BEFORE the purchase idea and am realizing 4x8 may not be enough trailer.

*snip*
Has anyone used a 4x8 utility trailer successfully? Am I looking at needing to remove a couple sections of side support in order for the side access panels to swing open?
Thanks,
Jon

Matter of fact, that’s how I got my 802a home two years ago - Harbor freight 4x8 folding trailer. I’d mounted some marine-grade 3/4” plywood and stainless 1” solid D-ring (shackles) on the corners and in between. Guy I bought the genset from used a forklift to set it on the trailer. Used 2” ratchet straps to keep it in place until I got home. About 55 miles. Son and I tilted the trailer and used 2x4x slipped through the slots in the skids, EZPZ. Plan on using a comealong or gantry to get the thing back on a larger trailer in a few years.

Then today, I drove about 90 miles to pick up and 803a using the same trailer, but I’d upgraded the tires to 6 ply LR-C tires. Load limit by design is 1420 lbs (or 1450, give or take). Handled like a champ. Have it and my truck in the yard where I plan on doing the same finessing to get it onto a space I’ll clear next to the other one. For now.

Still contemplating buying an M116A3 - got a line on one, nowhere to store it, I’ve pretty much used up all the available space in the yard, next to the deck and under it and I need to get a couple cords of firewood delivered so there goes the patio slab where I’ve been storing the foldup trailer. I’ll think of something.

But yeah, a 4x8 trailer is fine depending on how you modify it. I’ll try and remember to take pictures tomorrow and post ‘em here.

 

[boxer4luvr]

Yeah, I understand that 4x8 is plenty for picking up the 802, but I'm hoping to mount it permanently on that trailer. I' love to see pics of anyone else's 4x8's and mods they made. The idea of raising the unit up via a platform is an intriguing one. My question is how adversely that would impact the center of gravity and make the unit really top heavy. Jamawieb's idea of mounting an fuel cell under there is interesting. I had been considering using a 30 or 55gal drum as an aux fuel reservoir and storing it in the shed or in the lawn/garden shed, which I could then roll over close to the 802 if/when I wanted to pull from the reserve.

Thank you guys again for the ideas and comments.

Best,
Jon

 

[NormB]

803a is JUST a tad heavy for this model trailer - rated wt about 1420, genset's around 1100+. Fine for the 802a though.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Yeah here is the HF unit: https://www.harborfreight.com/1720-lbs-capacity-48-in-x-96-in-super-duty-folding-trailer-62647.html

What I would do is to get some rectangle channel steel (or maybe real heavy wall aluminum), and drill and bolt it to all of the cross members on the trailer (so perpendicular to the cross members), I would then add bolt through holes on said channels, to pick up the mounting hole pattern on the genset. You then get the rise you need to clear the fenders, and its distributing the weight evenly across the front to back. Of course keeping in mind the listed center of gravity of the genset, and of the trailer (if provided by the manufacturer). Add a drop leg to the front with a wheel to roll around as needed, and consider bolting on a rear bracing leg for anti-tip when not attached to a vehicle.