Proper Wrenches for Seized Brake Adjustment Jam Nut

[UPFINN]

I ran into a bit of a problem with the 1 1/8 anchor pin jam nuts. I am getting ready to adjust brakes. I have two TM's that mention different ways to loosen and tighten them. One TM says to tighten to 80-110 ft lbs which requires using a socket, while the other TM says to use a box end wrench to tighten them with no torque specified.

The TM on this thread says to torque the nut to between 80 to 110 ft lbs: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?26011-Deuce-brake-adjustment-TM

TM 9 - 2 3 2 0 - 2 0 9 - 2 0 - 3 - 2 does not specify any torque and requires use of a box end wrench, however an average box end wrench won't fit.

The big issue is that using a socket does not let you hold the 1/2 in pin from turning, however while using a breaker bar and socket I don't THINK the pins were turning while I loosened the nuts.

My 1 1/8 box end wrenches do not have enough offset to go over the nuts because the backing plate blocks them. I can use an open end wrench, but it is rounding off and nut and I can not get enough leverage.

My other problem is that on the front axle the boot guard blocks you from using a socket and breaker bar or a torque wrench. Would it be safe to remove the boot guards? I would have to take out two bolts on the bottom and top of the steering knuckle along with the grease fitting.

To summarize everything: The jam nuts are tight as h@!!, I am using a breaker bar to loosen them and both the nut and pin may be be turning, my box end wrenches do not have enough offset, open ended wrenches are rounding the nuts off, and I am not sure if the nuts need to be torqued or hand tightened because I have two TMs.

I think I might need a wrench called a "deep offset box end wrench". Were would I get one of these without buying an entire set? I can not really find any online.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Ehh, I'd just make one. Cut the back off a no-name socket(6 point) and weld an arm onto the side of it.

 

[73m819]

i would HEAT a box end and make the needed offset.

 

[gimpyrobb]

That works too, but if you bend it close to the box end, you can deform the box end! Just a word of caution.

 

[UPFINN]

I finally was able to locate an offset wrench that was the right size. Tomorrow I will go to town and if I can't find one there I will order it.

That still does not solve the issue of whether or not the jam nuts need to be tightened to a specific torque. A torque wrench will not fit on the front axle unless I remove the boot guard. Unfortunately, the bolts holding the guard and king pin cap on at the bottom also must be torqued to 140 ft lbs, and the brake backing plate blocks the wrench.

Is it a big deal if I can't torque these nuts/bolts to spec and just get them as tight as I can with a box wrench?

 

[gimpyrobb]

I'm guessing your talking about the bottom brake pad adjuster? I never used a torque wrench, I use the German torque spec "gut-n-tight"!

 

[welldigger]

I finally was able to locate an offset wrench that was the right size. Tomorrow I will go to town and if I can't find one there I will order it.

That still does not solve the issue of whether or not the jam nuts need to be tightened to a specific torque. A torque wrench will not fit on the front axle unless I remove the boot guard. Unfortunately, the bolts holding the guard and king pin cap on at the bottom also must be torqued to 140 ft lbs, and the brake backing plate blocks the wrench.

Is it a big deal if I can't torque these nuts/bolts to spec and just get them as tight as I can with a box wrench?

Ya I just use a wrench and get them goI'd and snug. Doesn't seem to be a problem.

 

[UPFINN]

I found a 1 1/8 wrench in town that fit. I was able to just barely fit the crescent end on the nut and it came loose with lots of heating, hammer, and pb blaster. I had to be careful not to round the nut. I think it has been awhile before anyone adjusted the brakes.

The box end of the wrench should fit with the wheels off. I just wanted to loosen the jam nuts before getting it on jack stands since I don't want to be cranking on it while under the truck.

 

[rflegal]

I am curious on this as I am working on a complete rebuild of brakes as well. I had seen both procedures specs as you did.

Given the lockwasher on the adjuster, I would think the "grunt" approach is perfectly workable.
Torquing? I dunno, I think that's what may have got you where you are if corrosion didn't. On the other hand, I would want to lose the setting from being too loose. Experience from engine head bolts elsewhere shows 80-110 ft-lbs to be "PDG" with a breaker and move on. No gorilla necessary.

Removing the shield on the front for access is no biggie. I have done that. Just be sure to re-install properly.

One thing I did notice is that the adjusters were very stiff from age and had to be "persuaded" out out of their home. I removed them and ran a small brake hone through the bore to make sure they were operative. HP grease too.

Some pics of before. I know they look OK, the truck was maintained by a mine maintenance dept., but it hasn't been used for years. Had to go through the brakes before operating. Hydraulics were a mess from sitting - bent new lines, fittings, cylinders, etc.

BTW - anyone have a good replacement for the felt washers: Tried cutting some new ones - not as easy as it looks.

Will post some "after" shots later.

 

[rustystud]

Almost any truck parts place should have felt washers.
Felts have been used for over 5 decades now on anchor pin brakes.