PU798 MEP-803/ M116A3 towing questions

[jimbo913]

Finally pulled the trigger on a sweet 11hr Generator and now planning for the long road trip.
Does anyone know the interstate highway laws along the east coast for towing these trailer (RT95 Carolinas to MD), or RT81 are possibilities. I highly doubt most people have tags on them to transport home. I will be using magnetic lights. Thinking they should stay on ok for the highway.

in regards to the pintle, does anyone have photos, recommendations or links for what is needed and what height the bottom of the pintle hook ID needs to be off the ground for proper towing? My truck reciever is about 17.5" to center.

Any help that can make this trip easier and less stressful is appreciated.

Thanks
Jim

 

[R Racing]

I believe it's northern tool has a drop hitch that you can put on upside down and on my f350 it makes it very close to level. I use the magnetic lights when I have done it. I have never had a tag on my trips on the trailer. and have never been pulled over even when being passed by a officer. Have have done 4 trips so far no issues. Just make sure your lights all work and you should be fine.

 

[jimbo913]

Thanks, it makes me feel less stressed. How fast do you pull them and do they track well?
Are the tires run flat, tube or tubeless?

If anyone has one of these trailers sitting level and can get me a hitch height, I would be very appreciative.

 

[R Racing]

They track excellent! ! I think top speed I did was 75 in a 75 mph zone. I didn't know they were back there lol.

 

[glassk]

The Ring is about 25 inches high, A friend pulled my M116A1 with an MEP002A South Carolina to around Ft Benning , 65 MPH with no trouble, you might want a couple of those quick links because the chains are about an inch short with a bolt on Pintle

 

[jimbo913]

Will this type with a ball work? The kind I have seen before didn't have an actual ball. This one states 2"

 

[jimbo913]

And the guy said I needed a drop pintle. I would say at 25" you need raised unless your truck is lifted. My reciever is 17.5" to center.

 

[glassk]

That is the one I used on the right, with his van, my pickup is lower so I got the extra riser for mine,

 

[jimbo913]

Do you know if your ball is 2" or 2-5/16". I dont know if it matters because they likely space the area for the hook the same on both. I could be wrong..

 

[glassk]

2", it worked with regular trailers, be sure and lock it up for a ball hitch on a trailer , heard it will break something if it's down ,

 

[glassk]

And the guy said I needed a drop pintle. I would say at 25" you need raised unless your truck is lifted. My reciever is 17.5" to center.

drop hitch that you can put on upside down,

 

[jimbo913]

It would likely rip off the locking mechanism of a standard hitch if it was down.

 

[jimbo913]

Think I will order 2-5/16" because I have another trailer that size. They must make the inside space the same on both. I will take some power tools just in case since I will have plenty of power

 

[jimbo913]

Can anyone confirm the inside diameter of the lunette ring on these trailers? The hitch I want to have expressed shipped by tomorrow says it works with 2.5" and 3" ID lunette rings.

 

[1800 Diesel]

Can anyone confirm the inside diameter of the lunette ring on these trailers? The hitch I want to have expressed shipped by tomorrow says it works with 2.5" and 3" ID lunette rings.

I just checked an M116A2 & the ID of the lunette ring is 3".

 

[zarathustra]

I towed one about 500 miles which included a snowstorm in West Virginia and Eastern Kentucky. I was towing with a Dodge 3/4 ton.

It towed at high speeds just fine.
I just had a standard straight pintle hitch on the truck. It has a combo pintle / ball. It was a 2"ball.


I did not try to use the trailer lights at all. I brought a 7 pin to 4 pin adapter and a set of trailer lights from Harbor Freight.

Used some zip ties to fasten the lights to the back of the trailer and some wire to go forward to the truck.

The reason for not using the trailer lights was that I had tried it on a previous occasion, and there were just too many variables to get those lights working with a four pin at a time when I was far away from the shop and in a hurry to get back home.

A little extra chain might be helpful. I had some, but didn't need it.

You just need to get it home. It doesn't have to look pretty, just safe, so it would be wasted money to spend a lot on equipment that you'll only use once.

And I'd also get a couple of ~6 inch grade 8 bolts and nuts. 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch (I don't remember which). Those will come in really handy if the shock absorber in the surge brake hitch is bad. You can run that bolt through the hitch and that'll prevent the surge brake from clunking back and forth and will also make backing easier. Backing up a hill with surge brakes is always an interesting and fun-filled experience.

The trailers have a fairly heavy tongue weight and with the Dodge the trailer was at a forward leaning angle, but there was no problem towing at all. They don't like to back up easily, so for stops on the way try to go to the RV and Trailer parking at Cracker Barrel. I recommend the Country Vegetable Plate (with turnip greens).

As an aside, the vendor (mendenhall industries formerly Hydro Act) that makes the surge brake for this trailer also makes an adjustable hitch module that will swap into your hitch and eliminate the lunette. You can then get a Bulldog 2" or 2.5" coupler that will bolt into the adjustable module. That module will allow you to move the coupler down or up to match your truck. I like it because since it is a factory part from the factory vendor and is made for that particular hitch.

z

 

[jimbo913]

Thanks for all the help everyone.

 

[glassk]

I towed one about 500 miles which included a snowstorm in West Virginia and Eastern Kentucky. I was towing with a Dodge 3/4 ton.

It towed at high speeds just fine.
I just had a standard straight pintle hitch on the truck. It has a combo pintle / ball. It was a 2"ball.


I did not try to use the trailer lights at all. I brought a 7 pin to 4 pin adapter and a set of trailer lights from Harbor Freight.

Used some zip ties to fasten the lights to the back of the trailer and some wire to go forward to the truck.

The reason for not using the trailer lights was that I had tried it on a previous occasion, and there were just too many variables to get those lights working with a four pin at a time when I was far away from the shop and in a hurry to get back home.

A little extra chain might be helpful. I had some, but didn't need it.

You just need to get it home. It doesn't have to look pretty, just safe, so it would be wasted money to spend a lot on equipment that you'll only use once.

And I'd also get a couple of ~6 inch grade 8 bolts and nuts. 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch (I don't remember which). Those will come in really handy if the shock absorber in the surge brake hitch is bad. You can run that bolt through the hitch and that'll prevent the surge brake from clunking back and forth and will also make backing easier. Backing up a hill with surge brakes is always an interesting and fun-filled experience.

The trailers have a fairly heavy tongue weight and with the Dodge the trailer was at a forward leaning angle, but there was no problem towing at all. They don't like to back up easily, so for stops on the way try to go to the RV and Trailer parking at Cracker Barrel. I recommend the Country Vegetable Plate (with turnip greens).

As an aside, the vendor (mendenhall industries formerly Hydro Act) that makes the surge brake for this trailer also makes an adjustable hitch module that will swap into your hitch and eliminate the lunette. You can then get a Bulldog 2" or 2.5" coupler that will bolt into the adjustable module. That module will allow you to move the coupler down or up to match your truck. I like it because since it is a factory part from the factory vendor and is made for that particular hitch.

z

I like the Chef salad and Chicken & Dumplings,

Jimbo

http://www.hummerknowledgebase.com/acc/m101a.pdf

I printed the wheel hub section and had it just in case ,

 

[73m819]

If you get the combo hitch, GET the one that WILL allow you to switch balls if needed, this you way can pull ALL the ball hitch trailers.

 

[jimbo913]

I found a pintle hitch at my old mans which puts the bottom inside ID at 20" off the ground, and I think I might roll with that instead of buying new.