Blower removal misery continues MEP002A
I took storeman's advice and made another attempt pulling the blower wheel on our "Unit #2" today.
Even called in a retired outside machinist (which I used to do in my shipyard days many years ago) to observe/assist. When he saw the setup we had (heavy bar type puller), the amount of force applied and the hammer hits on the blower wheel and on the end of the puller, he was convinced that something is still holding the wheel in place. He inquired about the 6 studs still visible on the wheel (QTY 3 5/16" & QTY (3) 3/8") I explained that these had to stay in place and that they would "ride" with the wheel when it was pulled. We also read the TM and it clearly says to only pull the center bolt, though the illustration shows a much shorter bolt than the one that is actually installed into the center-drilled/tapped hole in the crankshaft.
To reiterate the process we used and relevant observations:
1. Center bolt washer [3/8" + thick one] removed. Center bolt screwed all the way in then backed out 2 or 3 turns.
2. Bar type puller (free "rental" from local auto parts place) setup against crankshaft bolt (greased head) & two 5/16" by 4" GR 8 bolts screwed into hub.
3. Hub area heated to 200 degrees.
4. Liberal amounts of PBB applied to keyway & hub area.
5. Puller tightened with 1/2" breaker bar in excess of 80 ft-#s.
6. CO2 applied to face of crankshaft.
7. Hammered blower wheel along rear edge at multiple positions.
8. Hammered end of puller with 2-3# machinist hammer at lease 25 times as hard as we could swing the hammer...
My machinist buddy is convinced we are "dead-heading" the wheel against something else. I know I've asked at least twice, but is everyone absolutely positive that none of the 6 hub bolts need to be loosened? I know they can't be removed, but if these nuts were backed off & removed, could the aluminum portion of the blower wheel then come off easy? Is there any benefit to removing the magnet ring (not sure abt terminology) using a right angle screw driver or is it even possible to remove prior to removing blower wheel.
Bottom line, I'm with storeman in suggesting I should try to keep the generators as original as possible and would really like to remove this one to repair/clean (or replace) the stator, but I'm way beyond the point of diminishing returns & getting close to my breaking point & equipment limits too!!
Storeman--I haven't drilled/tapped the hub for the 3/8" bolts yet, since the 5/16" GR 8s are still holding there own I'm not sure that is worth the effort & risk.
If you guys are absolutely positive the 6 other bolts stay in place & only the center bolt into the crankshaft has to be loosened to allow pressing against the puller stud & the wheel should come off after reasonably efforts to do so then I'll stand down for a second time and dress my wounds. If someone tells me how dumb my methods are, please don't be shy. I definitely need the help.
Thanks for the assist..
