Purchased a 2004 Fermont MEP-802A 5kW Generator Set mounted on a trailer.

[kayak1]

I am going to attempt to tow if from VA to Maine in a couple of days.

2004 Fermont MEP-802A 5kW Generator Set

5 kW, 120/240 Volts Single Phase, 120/208 Volts 3 Phase, 120V Receptacles, Diesel Engine, Fuel Tank, Surge Brakes, Single Axle Trailer Chassis, 37x12.50R16.5LT Tires, Pintle Ring. ***Please see DLA supplied Tire Safety Warning document below

www.govplanet.com

It looks like it's short two lug nuts and a wheel stud.

Does anybody know the specks of the wheel studs and lug nuts? Hopefully, this is something that I can pick up at my local auto parts store.

I would like to drive to VA with the tools and parts in hand.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Jeepadict]

Bring a standard star wrench tire iron. Borrow a nut from the other good side and give it to one of your missing kids. Check your tire pressures to 30-ish PSI. Bring a set of magnetic tow lights from Harbor Freight. Hook on to it and don't think twice about it! 7 out of 8 on a 2500 lb trailer is a cakewalk...I'd even be willing to be missing 4 out of 8 as long as they're every other stud. Anything can run down the road missing one, and the only reason they're 8 lug on Humvee wheels is parts interchangeability...that would be a 5 lug wheel on any other trailer in the world.

If ya got overly motivated, any auto parts will have the 9/16" (IIRC) lug nut for a standard issue K20 Chevy pickup from the 70s and 80s. I seriously would not even give a thought to the broken stud...fix that much later on in life. Congrats on a great buy!!

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[kayak1]

Bring a standard star wrench tire iron. Borrow a nut from the other good side and give it to one of your missing kids. Check your tire pressures to 30-ish PSI. Bring a set of magnetic tow lights from Harbor Freight. Hook on to it and don't think twice about it! 7 out of 8 on a 2500 lb trailer is a cakewalk...I'd even be willing to be missing 4 out of 8 as long as they're every other stud. Anything can run down the road missing one, and the only reason they're 8 lug on Humvee wheels is parts interchangeability...that would be a 5 lug wheel on any other trailer in the world.

If ya got overly motivated, any auto parts will have the 9/16" (IIRC) lug nut for a standard issue K20 Chevy pickup from the 70s and 80s. I seriously would not even give a thought to the broken stud...fix that much later on in life. Congrats on a great buy!!

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Thanks for the help. I have picked up 3 lug nuts and a wheel stud. I agree with your thoughts on the quantity of the lug nuts it makes total sense. I just rather not have to talk with a DOT person about the wheels. for $15.05 it's worth having the

I have an air compressor impact wrench, floor jack and 6"x6" cribbing pack with normal hand tools.

I have also picked up a 7-pin end and 2x 1157 light bulbs. (I wasn't sure what other ones I might need).

I have duct tape, and zip ties to go with my magnetic lights ( I read that the decking is made from aluminum, thus if I can't get the stock lights working. I have a backup plan ).

 

[Jeepadict]

You do you boo...but doing that much surgery that many miles from home is not my kind of a good time. That missing lug stud will need more than the list of tools you're bringing and I'd bet money the stud isn't the right one. (Tho you could get lucky)

1157 is the wrong bulb for the incandescent conversion. It's a dual-bulb configuration. 1156 should be good for stop/turn, but you'll need to take the smaller bulb in to the auto parts house to get a comparison. Drag lights are much easier to get it home. Your deck is most definitely not Aluminum. You've misread somewhere...the newer generation 1101/1102 trailers went Aluminum. I've brought home a few 116 trailers with drag lights without incident.

You're gonna need a #4 Philips to get the drum off...I could only find them at Napa, and had to order them.

Get into the TM (download it from SS). There's a parts breakdown with the proper UOC so you can search the part number or NSN to give you the stud size, then that can be had from any auto parts.

Your hub/drum assys are Dexter, identical to many boats making e-trailer your friend. Your Hydraulic tongue parts are from Mendenhall Industries, Calvin is the owner and a very helpful fella (see attached pic for his contact info).

I chose to replace my light pigtail whip instead of cut off the connector as I have specific intent for my projects, and the OE whip isn't long enough with my hitch configuration. (See attached screenshot)

Don't stress your DOT worries...I've spent many years in a scalehouse to say they don't mess with Ma & Pa Kettle, they're in it for the commercial operators. (I could stand on my box about this as it has made me mad for years) Trust me when I say your lack of DOT lighting or license plate stands a higher risk of bringing a penalty than your missing lug stud.

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[kayak1]

You do you boo...but doing that much surgery that many miles from home is not my kind of a good time. That missing lug stud will need more than the list of tools you're bringing and I'd bet money the stud isn't the right one. (Tho you could get lucky)

1157 is the wrong bulb for the incandescent conversion. It's a dual-bulb configuration. 1156 should be good for stop/turn, but you'll need to take the smaller bulb in to the auto parts house to get a comparison. Drag lights are much easier to get it home. Your deck is most definitely not Aluminum. You've misread somewhere...the newer generation 1101/1102 trailers went Aluminum. I've brought home a few 116 trailers with drag lights without incident.

You're gonna need a #4 Philips to get the drum off...I could only find them at Napa, and had to order them.

Get into the TM (download it from SS). There's a parts breakdown with the proper UOC so you can search the part number or NSN to give you the stud size, then that can be had from any auto parts.

Your hub/drum assys are Dexter, identical to many boats making e-trailer your friend. Your Hydraulic tongue parts are from Mendenhall Industries, Calvin is the owner and a very helpful fella (see attached pic for his contact info).

I chose to replace my light pigtail whip instead of cut off the connector as I have specific intent for my projects, and the OE whip isn't long enough with my hitch configuration. (See attached screenshot)

Don't stress your DOT worries...I've spent many years in a scalehouse to say they don't mess with Ma & Pa Kettle, they're in it for the commercial operators. (I could stand on my box about this as it has made me mad for years) Trust me when I say your lack of DOT lighting or license plate stands a higher risk of bringing a penalty than your missing lug stud.

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Jeepadict,
Thanks for the advice. You have made the wheel stud sound like so much fun I will forget the idea of fixing the wheel stud for now.
I don't even own a #4 Philips. I now have ordered 5-pack of Apex 484 Phillips #4 Head Bit 7/16" Hex Drive. (I have a 7/16 hex adapter for my 1/2 impact).

I was able to get a plate with the bill of sale. Thus if I can figure a location to mount it, I have a lighted bracket to keep the DOT happy.

I will pick up the 1156 bulbs in the AM and on route home I will see about the other bulbs.

I currently own 5 trailers, E-Trailers is already my friend. (Easy with them to make orders $100 to get the free shipping).

I keep on downloading trailer manuals but they don't seem to match the pictures, I will see if I can find the exact model to find the appropriate manual.

Thanks again!

 

[Guyfang]

If you want a trailer TM, you have to know what Trailer you have, (Model) and what the model of the PU, Power unit you have. So look at the data plates and then someone can help you.

 

[Jeepadict]

If you want a trailer TM, you have to know what Trailer you have, (Model) and what the model of the PU, Power unit you have. So look at the data plates and then someone can help you.

My bad, totally didn't click in my brain to help on this. Thanks @Guyfang

OP, using the auction link you posted, it's a MEP-802A mounted on a M116A3. (Now observe as the tech data massiah bestows upon on the)

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[emmado22]

The M101A3/M116A3 manual

http://www.jatonkam35s.com/M105TMS/TM9-2330-202-14&P.pdf

has the detailed info on the "frame and below" that you have. The PP/PU manual will have the info on the deck and up. TM 9-6115-659-13&P http://manuals.chudov.com/MEP-002A/AN_MJQ-35.pdf For transport, just worry about the 116A3/101A3 manual. it will have all the info you need to get you home.


The bed is steel.

Looks like you are missing the crank handle for the landing leg as per usual. All the crank does is extend/retract the landing leg, so if you can muscle it on to your hitch, you should be able to retract the landing leg by the "pull handle" and secure it. Check the accessories box, maybe you got lucky and it is in there.


Also, if it is a "working motorpool" you may get lucky and a crusty old motor SGT might help you out with the lug nut and handle and may have info on the trailer/genny. Always worth an ask.

Good luck with the recovery.

 

[Guyfang]

Emmado is correct. The secret to a PP or PU set, it all in the data plates. There will be a data plate for the gen set. There will be a data plate for the trailer. And there will be a data plate for the PP or PU. On said data plates will be the Operator TM listed.

Also, all these TM's are listed in the Steel Soldiers TM forum.

 

[emmado22]

PP's are power plants with 2 gensets, and PU's are power units with 1 genset.

 

[kayak1]

Bring a standard star wrench tire iron. Borrow a nut from the other good side and give it to one of your missing kids. Check your tire pressures to 30-ish PSI. Bring a set of magnetic tow lights from Harbor Freight. Hook on to it and don't think twice about it! 7 out of 8 on a 2500 lb trailer is a cakewalk...I'd even be willing to be missing 4 out of 8 as long as they're every other stud. Anything can run down the road missing one, and the only reason they're 8 lug on Humvee wheels is parts interchangeability...that would be a 5 lug wheel on any other trailer in the world.

If ya got overly motivated, any auto parts will have the 9/16" (IIRC) lug nut for a standard issue K20 Chevy pickup from the 70s and 80s. I seriously would not even give a thought to the broken stud...fix that much later on in life. Congrats on a great buy!!

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

The 9/16 K20 Chevy pickup lug nut worked great! I just had to air up the tires.

I aired the tires up, the hubs stayed within 5F of ambient. The magnet mount lights worked fine. I haven't messed with the missing stud.

The only issue on the trip was traffic and at the hotel last night in CT someone cut my catalytic converter out of my truck.

 

[Jeepadict]

The 9/16 K20 Chevy pickup lug nut worked great! I just had to air up the tires.

I aired the tires up, the hubs stayed within 5F of ambient. The magnet mount lights worked fine. I haven't messed with the missing stud.

The only issue on the trip was traffic and at the hotel last night in CT someone cut my catalytic converter out of my truck.

It's never an adventure if nothing goes wrong! If it's broken, that means you get to upgrade, right?!

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[kayak1]

It's never an adventure if nothing goes wrong! If it's broken, that means you get to upgrade, right?!

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It has been dropped off at the dealer. Insurance should cover most of the costs.. I need to get it back as I have the 2nd one to pick up in NJ:

https://www.govplanet.com/jsp/s/item/6696657 ( I didn't expect to win any, I would have been happier with just one).

 

[Jeepadict]

It has been dropped off at the dealer. Insurance should cover most of the costs.. I need to get it back as I have the 2nd one to pick up in NJ:

https://www.govplanet.com/jsp/s/item/6696657 ( I didn't expect to win any, I would have been happier with just one).

Well that sycks, sorry ya had to go to the stealership. Major bonus side...you're getting both those PUs for a mere fraction of what they go for out here in the Southwest states! Your 5KW will retail around here for $6-7K, and that 10KW can easily fetch up to $10K. Not sure your intended use, but make sure if your intended load is less than the rated unit then you'll need something to load it to avoid wetstacking. Plenty of threads on the subject if it's a new thing for you.

Note to self: that 10K is on the more modern trailer with the Aluminum bed...but you can still use your magnetic lights on the very tail frame tubes by the D-rings. Lug nuts and wheel/tire are the same.

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[emmado22]

Here is the TM you need for the NJ trailer. TM 9-6115-660-13&P

 

[kayak1]

Well that sycks, sorry ya had to go to the stealership. Major bonus side...you're getting both those PUs for a mere fraction of what they go for out here in the Southwest states! Your 5KW will retail around here for $6-7K, and that 10KW can easily fetch up to $10K. Not sure your intended use, but make sure if your intended load is less than the rated unit then you'll need something to load it to avoid wetstacking. Plenty of threads on the subject if it's a new thing for you.

Note to self: that 10K is on the more modern trailer with the Aluminum bed...but you can still use your magnetic lights on the very tail frame tubes by the D-rings. Lug nuts and wheel/tire are the same.

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Insurance is going to cover all but $250 in terms of the repairs. Going back to the dealership will get me OEM parts.

I almost had my brothers friend agree to take the 10k one off my hands for my auction costs. (he would have then picked it up).

I think that the 5k one would be the best fit for me, I am planning on installing the wifi/2 wire start kit in it then hooking it to my solar setup.

When the grid is out and it's dark. I currently have the inverter (Outback Radian 8048a) programed to close a relay when the batteries hit 70% full then open the relay when the batteries are 95% full, this should keep them charged. The outback can use up to 7200 watts (programable) in terms of battery charging.

 

[kayak1]

Here is the TM you need for the NJ trailer. TM 9-6115-660-13&P

Thanks for the TM. I am planning on bringing one of the 5K tires down with me as a just in case.

 

[kayak1]

New update, the exhaust will have to replaced from the headers back at ~6K. The parts are on national backorder with no eta.

I don't want to have to pay for storage of the generator with https://www.govplanet.com/.

I have upgraded my steelsoldiers, and will post in the classifieds see if someone would like the 10K.

 

[kayak1]

With the 2nd generator that I couldn't get home Light in the Dark ( https://www.steelsoldiers.com/members/light-in-the-dark.74995/ ) has purchased from it me in the https://www.govplanet.com/ NJ location. He had a friend pick it up from the action to avoid the storage fees. Later this summer, he is going to bring it back to his place to fix up for a future owner.

If your looking for an MEP-802a or MEP-803a you might talk to Light in the Dark he is very knowledgeable about them. He picks them up, fixes them, and then passes them on to new homes.

When I was with him he showed me a number of things to do with my 802.