Putting IP back in and Timing Refresher

[Dasgog]

Hey guys.

I can not believe I have forgotten this.
Without checking where the timing was, I took out my IP and Cleaned it out new seals/ o rings etc.

I wanna run these stops by you and see if I am right.
Currently, the IP is out of the truck. I turned the IP to where I “see” the white mark in the 4 bolt window and I see the red tooth on the head dead center, so those are lined up at this point.
Before I put the IP back in, I turn the engine until I see the notch directly on the correct engine I have on the harmonic balancer.
I put the IP in, put the gear on and loosely put bolts on. I move the IP bolt until the white mark in window is dead center and tighten. …. Being I would probably only move it barely, I will still see the red tooth hopefully the one tooth off from dead center.

If harmonic balancer tooth/notch is dead center, white mark in window is dead center and red tooth center/center left…. Is that it?

How do I know what rotation the engine is? I mean it can all be lined up but the wrong stroke right?
I watched the tact repair About it but I still feel lost/without confidence .

 

[Shooter308]

Hey guys.

I can not believe I have forgotten this.
Without checking where the timing was, I took out my IP and Cleaned it out new seals/ o rings etc.

I wanna run these stops by you and see if I am right.
Currently, the IP is out of the truck. I turned the IP to where I “see” the white mark in the 4 bolt window and I see the red tooth on the head dead center, so those are lined up at this point.
Before I put the IP back in, I turn the engine until I see the notch directly on the correct engine I have on the harmonic balancer.
I put the IP in, put the gear on and loosely put bolts on. I move the IP bolt until the white mark in window is dead center and tighten. …. Being I would probably only move it barely, I will still see the red tooth hopefully the one tooth off from dead center.

If harmonic balancer tooth/notch is dead center, white mark in window is dead center and red tooth center/center left…. Is that it?

How do I know what rotation the engine is? I mean it can all be lined up but the wrong stroke right?
I watched the tact repair About it but I still feel lost/without confidence .

I haven't done anything timing the injection pump before, but if you want to know what stroke, should be able to just check valve overlap on #1. If you are tdc #1, should have no pressure on valves.

 

[Dasgog]

I haven't done anything timing the injection pump before, but if you want to know what stroke, should be able to just check valve overlap on #1. If you are tdc #1, should have no pressure on valves.

Unfortunately, I don’t even know what stroke I am supposed to be on. TDC True Dead Center? And #1 is closest to front of engine? Sorry, I’ve never done timing being line the 3 notches but now come to realize it’s more than that .

 

[gringeltaube]

Unfortunately, I don’t even know what stroke I am supposed to be on. TDC True Dead Center? And #1 is closest to front of engine? Sorry, I’ve never done timing being line the 3 notches but now come to realize it’s more than that .

Should be Top Dead Center, at the end of the compression stroke. Both valves are closed, at that time.
And yes, cylinders on engines are always counted 1- and up, going from front to rear.

 

[Dasgog]

Alright so I may have to turn the crank 4 times max to find TDC? When you say both valves closed (the 2 valves in front) that means that the springs or whatever they are called will be loose? Like I can move/shake em? Meaning they won’t be tight and unmovable.
Sorry, I just wanna make sure I understand everything and not reverse it in my head.

 

[gringeltaube]

Alright so I may have to turn the crank 4 times max to find TDC?

Not 4 times; just one - or maybe a second full turn. There are 2 TDC positions for each cylinder; only one of them is correct for your purpose.
Remember, it's a four stroke, requiring 2 full crankshaft revolutions to complete all four.

It will be the rocker arms and push rods that are "loose" at the compression TDC. (Not the springs, not the valves - never!)

 

[Dasgog]

Interesting!
So I may get lucky with my first alignment? When the notch meets the correct engine mark I’ll check the looseness of the Rocker Arm. If tight, I’ll turn the engine until it meets the notch again and then the Rocker Arms should be loose, meaning it’s fully closed?
Loosen= closed, tight=open and TDC would Loose and Closed?
This is how I learn so thank you for your patience and guidance.
Once I finally get it TDC, I’ll put in IP and then align the White Marker in the window which should also have the red tooth on the Head. Then it’s full tighten and go from there.

 

[gringeltaube]

When the notch meets the correct engine mark I’ll check the looseness of the Rocker Arm. If tight, I’ll turn the engine until it meets the notch again and then the Rocker Arms should be loose, meaning it’s fully closed?

Exactly.

 

[Dasgog]

Sweet! I’m excited to get some things and then put it all back in. Being valve covers are coming off I’m gonna replace those gaskets/seals as well.
Thank you so much for building my confidence up and exposing in a way I could comprehend.

 

[williamh]

Be sure your using the timing mark for the correct motor and turbo application. ‍

 

[williamh]

I replaced the IP on my Duce several years ago. Aligning all the marks before tightening everything down was less of a challenge than getting to the TDC mark by my self. Clicking the motor to get it close than using another tool to spin the motor to the correct spot. No space for a breaker bar. Ended up using my home made bar on the compressor pulley to get it exact. I wish u good luck.

 

[Dasgog]

LD-465-1C is my Engine… I am exited to begin on this and will definitely response with my success

 

[williamh]

M35a2 Timing

Hello I replaced a bad injector cap on my truck a while back and i lined all the ticks up instead of having the injector cap gear (red notch) one off the arrow a little (when the advance unit timing mark is lined up). I also remember turning the engine to line up the marks on the crank shaft...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[williamh]

It’s an old post but has lost of info

 

[gimpyrobb]

When timing the IP to the motor, you ONLY need to look under the 4 bolt indicator and TDC.

The tooth and arrow under the hydraulic head is to time the hydraulic head to the IP.

 

[Dasgog]

Just an update because I didn’t want to just get your help and disappear.
Upon taking things apart and all that jazz, I found that one of the 2 longer bolts holding the booster pump onto the injection pump was just spinning around and around so I had to re-thread it, now fits on nice and tight. Just have to our pump back in.
I then realize that facing the air compressor on the right side there’s a cap with 4 bolts, one of them goes round and round so I need to get a re-threading kit for that.
Other than that the delay was just me being lazy etc.

once back in I’ll let ya know if I did it or it went kaboom.

 

[Dasgog]

Alright, so. Based on our prior discussion, along with the rocker arms being correct, the timing mark on the harmonic balancer being correct, the white tooth in the small window on top of the IP dead center and the red tooth by the hydraulic head just one notch off, I feel I got it all right!
I put it all back together nice and clean looks beautiful!
I try to start it, no start. The starter is strong and the batteries are strong but it does not start! The in tank fuel pump does not work, I verified all fuses etc, and I know it “should” work even if fuel dump doesn’t work, and yet it’s not.
I was wondering, could it be that enough fuel leaked out of the hoses when I took off the IP that there’s no fuel for not to simply start and then start sucking fuel?
Like I said the starter sounds awesome and strong and the 24v batteries are nice and strong!!! It, will, not , start.

I am just curious as well…. I know the IP should receive fuel even if fuel pump is dead but would it still work if the residual fuel from when it worked was completely gone? I mean it would still
Depend on fuel being in the lines I assume.

I do not want to go this route, but to ease my mind, IF the rockets were wrong position, it would still start but crappy right? I mean, I feel this is a fuel issue!!!

 

[rustystud]

If you lost "prime" you will not start. Since your in-tank pump does not work you will need to "manually" prime your fuel system. You can use another pump to try and prime the system. You will know when you have enough fuel when you see it coming out the injection pump hose return. Or the fuel filters return line.

 

[Dasgog]

I don’t suppose they don’t have an inline crank thingy I can place between (nearer to IP) that will prime it?
You Mention another pump…. Which so you recommend? I know on regular rigs there’s a good 1.5/2’ space between tank and bed but mine was bobbed and I have a good 6 inches to work with, so I hope this other pump can be incorporated without me having to deal with tank?
Sorry, I’m smart but have no ingenuity.

 

[cattlerepairman]

I suggest this option: Loosen the fuel line at the secondary filters. Open the fuel tank cap, take a rag and a compressed air gun. Aim air gun into tank and "seal" with the rag with hand pressure. Pressurize the tank to push fuel through to the secondaries. When fuel comes out the line (good flow, not just a few spurts), tighten fitting and open fitting at IP. Repeat. Now you have fuel at the IP. You can try from there It may still want a bit of starting fluid (or long cranking) to pop off. If it does not, loosen the injector lines and crank until you see fuel come out. Then tighten and try starting again.
Starting a diesel with air in the fuel system or air locked is always fun.