Pyrometer

[bigkaiser]

I am looking to install a pyrometer on the deuce. Who has been down this path already? Thinking about one from the aviation industry as the autometers of the world look wrong with the other guages. Some need power, most 12 volt, so pull power from 1st battery I guess. Where on/in the exhaust manifold did you put the probe? Been carefully opening up the fueling rate & what a difference. They had it so choked off it was hard to start and did not want to pull 1st gear.

 

[cranetruck]

This image shows my pyro/boost instument "pod". The thermocouple is installed in the exhaust manifold BEFORE the turbo. You can install it downstream of it too, but the temp will be about 300 deg lower and the response time longer.
Thermocouple type instruments do not usually need external power except for illumination and the bulb can be changed to 12 or 24 volts very easily.
The instument came from a junked road tractor (salvage yard) and cos abot $20, the thermocouple was purchased new from Hewitt Industries. The boost indicator is an industrial pressure gauge w/o illumination, which I paid $10 for, new.

Any other questions, don't hesitate to call. [^]

 

[Westech]

I got mine from checker auto one of the race car ones. carbin fiber auto meter. just add a little 383 green and bam looks good. I didint want to drill in to the manifold so I just welded it in just after the turbo. I know its sopz to be befor but that just was not going to happen. looks good and works good what more do you wnat.

 

[brgmchevy]

I've been scouting gauges and found 1-1600F most common. What temp range does your gauges have? I heard pyro close to 1700F is still OK for these when they're tuned up but they'd be out of range for most gauges I've seen?

 

[Longhunter7]

Cranetruck,

Is there a potential problem drilling into the manifold before the turbo? I would think you would have to be careful not to get metal fileings in the turbo! []

 

[Desert Rat]

Guys,
I was told to drill after the turbo because you do not get an accurate reading before it because the turbo blades can actually increase the temp. due to friction from the turbo. It seems a convincing argument to me.

 

[yeager1]

From what I've been told from a friend that builds diesels for tractor pulls is that in a non-turbo motor your trying to protect the pistons from too much heat. In a turbo motor (especially older non-ball bearing turbos) the turbo bearings are the first thing to go- blows the turbo and sents shrapnel into the intake. Since it's the turbo your protecting ideally you want to know how hot the incoming air is before the turbo. To do so though, you have to pull the turbo off to keep metal shavings out when drilling and tapping. I have also heard that temps over 1300 will kill a motor if they last long. Havn't heard how high they can spike for a short duration.

 

[Pappa-G]

I'm just a simple caveman duce owner. All this talk about "turbochargers and pyrometers" alarms and confuses me. I don't know about metalurgy but I do know this, the temp probe is a thermocouple, it is installed in the exhaust stream before the turbo (though after turbo is better than not having one installed at all) you should remove the turbo before installing the probe. Any small metal particals will probably go through, but for the cost of a replacement I would remove it. I have read some where that 1300 deg is the EGT you wouldn't want to pass, though I can't remember where. The turbo extracts energy from the exhaust in the form of volocity and heat that is why the exhaust is cooler after the turbo.

I hope my [] helps ~ Pappa-G

(graduate from the caveman school of spelling)

 

[bigkaiser]

Bjorn,

Where did you tap into for your boost gauge? I found a pyro with two needles so maybe i will do a before and after turbo setup just for fun...

 

[cranetruck]

There is an 1/8" NPT plug on top of the intake manifold adapter where the boost gauge can be plumbed into.

 

[Pappa-G]

I went looking throough some TM's today and the only reference to Exhaust Outlet temp was " It is not to exceede the inlet air temp by more than 1100[sup]0[/sup]F to be measured at the exhaust manifold outlet." Now this was for an LDS-465-2 engine that produces 200 HP at 2850 RPM. For further information check in: TM 9-2910-226-35 (fuel inj pumps) or look in TM 9-2990-201-35 (turbo chargers).

Best of Luck - Pappa-G

 

[hot rod deuce]

hey big kaiser thats a snowmobile pyro that you saw incase some one didnt know. thats an awsome idea some what cheap and a much quicker response. im going to get a 2 cyl. one and put one before and one after and solve this mess ones and for all.

 

[Lee Alessi]

www.westach.com has a dual pyro/boost gauge. and they can make it 24 volts. its 2 1/16" and i ordered one today. ill let ya'll know how it works

 

[Recovry4x4]

Westach makes all kinds of neat gauge combos. How bad did they hurt you? Several hundred dollars wouldn't surprise me!

 

[bigkaiser]

mcinfantry,
that is one of the guages I have been looking at cause the styling fits the old deuce better than most. I will be very interested in how the install goes....keep me posted for sure.

and hot rod I am still thinking about the snowmobile pyro cause you can pick them up pretty cheap and be way trick with dual readings. You can also find some from aircraft with multiple needles...

 

[Lee Alessi]

i had thought of getting the dual egt to run post/pre turbo... but i figured its unecessary. it was 250 for everything, including 10 feet of pyro wire