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Is this the same for 5 ton and the 2-12 ton Deuce?
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Quantity of grease in front axle
- Thread starter frioman
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The -12 for both the 2 1/2 and 5t states remove both plugs, install grease fitting and fill till grease appears at other hole, there HAS to be a reason for this instruction in every -12 for all the 2 1/2 and 5ts other then just venting, if that was the case, only one plug would need to be removed and no grease fitting would be needed.
silverstate55
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Ron, you are correct. However it's been my experience that filling from one side to another overloads the knuckle with grease, and I've blown out several boots that way...I don't go through water much so I add grease via the zerks on top & bottom (through the kingpins), just a few squeezes each, with the plugs open to vent. I've finally gone more than a year & 5K miles without blowing a knuckle boot.
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- 7,409
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Is there anyone with a 60's model truck. I looked and I only had late 70's trucks. The Diff. tag say Rockwell on top and Rockwell International on the bottom. These are the newer Ujoint style. If it has Rockwell on top and Timken on the botton of the tag I do believe they are old style CV or the ball type .
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Do you know if the axles are interchangeable ??
- 7,409
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I don't know Ron but I would guess yes.
- 7,409
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How many licks does it take to get to the center off a charm pop and how many pounds of grease does it take to blow out a boot?
Does anyone think the maybe the Goverment maybe just once had an oversight and forgot to update the TM's when they switched to Ujoints. Oh yea that could not happen so forget that.
silverstate55
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I should clarify that for the U-joint style axle shafts, less grease seems to work better. It seems that too much grease near the boot, when steering, results in the grease being forced out via tearing the boot; as the steering knuckle turns, it compresses the grease through the boot, if there is too much accumulated already inside the knuckle area.
I'm wondering if maybe it was anticipated to have frequent enough tear-downs of the front axle ends to avoid this accumulation of grease (boot replacements, wheel cylinder work, etc...)?
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Ok please tell me what do you think your greasing when you have ujoints and you load up the knuckle? There are no bearings that get greased, I realy don't think that the grease will make the spindle bushing. The upper and lower bushings for the knuckle ( king pins ) only need a little once and awhile and you don't have to knock out the old grease from the knuckle upper or lower bushings as they will not take on dirt. Then there is the needle bearings in the ujoint and there is no way any grease will get into them no matter how many boots you blow out.
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If you had a seal at the inboard end of the spindle, you would not need the boot at all if you had u-joint axles. There is the axle oil seal and the new spindle seal to keep dirt out of the spindle. My X xm977 had u-joint axles, it only had a axle seal and the back of the hub was sealed off with the outer axle going though the seal, the u-joint was open to the world and WAS greaseable.
Getting rid of that boot sure go a long way in making MV life eaiser.
Getting rid of that boot sure go a long way in making MV life eaiser.
silverstate55
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You're right, I'm wrong...I was thinking of the grease outside the spindle.
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Thats ok no worries. Now I have never said that the grease would never make it to the inside of the spindle and get some grease on the bushing and axle but.
I think it would be a better plan to grease the axle and spindle where the bushing and axle ride is when we service the axles.
I believe when we get these trucks from GL we should.
#1 Pull all drums and repack. Check for problems like wheel cylinders and such. When doing the the front then grease the inside of spindles and bushing for axle.
#2 Replace all rubber line brake hose.
#3 Check and or replace master and or airpack as required.
#4 Check all Gear lube. If you just loosen the diff, trans or transfer case plug just a bit and if clean fresh looking gear lube drips out then your good. Pull filler plug and top off till it runs out. None of the finger crap. Top off till it runs out period.
#5 Change all fuel filters. If you have a five ton replace the rubber lines that are on transfer valve inless they look perfecty new. Deuce check the rubber jumper thats after the primary and runs from the IP to copper line.
#6 Change motor oil and filters.
#7 Change antifreeze filter if you have one and check the PH of antifreeze.
#8 Check air filter.
These are the ones I can think of right now.
I think it would be a better plan to grease the axle and spindle where the bushing and axle ride is when we service the axles.
I believe when we get these trucks from GL we should.
#1 Pull all drums and repack. Check for problems like wheel cylinders and such. When doing the the front then grease the inside of spindles and bushing for axle.
#2 Replace all rubber line brake hose.
#3 Check and or replace master and or airpack as required.
#4 Check all Gear lube. If you just loosen the diff, trans or transfer case plug just a bit and if clean fresh looking gear lube drips out then your good. Pull filler plug and top off till it runs out. None of the finger crap. Top off till it runs out period.
#5 Change all fuel filters. If you have a five ton replace the rubber lines that are on transfer valve inless they look perfecty new. Deuce check the rubber jumper thats after the primary and runs from the IP to copper line.
#6 Change motor oil and filters.
#7 Change antifreeze filter if you have one and check the PH of antifreeze.
#8 Check air filter.
These are the ones I can think of right now.
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