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Question about picking up mep802a with trailer from GP.

Mattguy

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I posted before that I purchased a 2010 mep802a from GP. I am going to pick up on Tuesday from Sparta, WI. About a 3.5 hour trip. Question is do I need to do anything special if I'm pulling back to Indiana? Bringing extra tire on rim in truck if I need. I'm use to construction trailers where I usually grease the bearings once a year. Does the trailer have greasable hubs?
 

Mullaney

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I posted before that I purchased a 2010 mep802a from GP. I am going to pick up on Tuesday from Sparta, WI. About a 3.5 hour trip. Question is do I need to do anything special if I'm pulling back to Indiana? Bringing extra tire on rim in truck if I need. I'm use to construction trailers where I usually grease the bearings once a year. Does the trailer have greasable hubs?
.
Got to remember that the Army has more manpower than most construction companies.
Those neat grease fittings on commercial trailers hubs aren't on military trailers...
 

Mullaney

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So no greasable bearing cups? How do they get lubricated?
.
The manual way... Remove the tire, remove the hub, knock out the bearings and manually grease them. Remember too that the military has a parts crib full of spare parts - while you have to go to the store or order on-line. (or try to knock the old seals out carefully and hope nothing gets bent)

If you are going to drive an unknown trailer, maybe take a floor jack (for speed) or a bottle jack if that is what you have. Lift the wheel and spin the wheel. It should rotate smoothly and no grinding sound (even the brake shoes). If it is quiet, it might make it home.

I would also suggest that you take one of those hand held temperature measuring devices. Run down the road maybe 10 miles, then pull over and shoot both hubs and see what you get. Maybe another 10 miles and check again. Should be getting warmer, but both should be similar in temperature.
 

Mattguy

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The manual way... Remove the tire, remove the hub, knock out the bearings and manually grease them. Remember too that the military has a parts crib full of spare parts - while you have to go to the store or order on-line. (or try to knock the old seals out carefully and hope nothing gets bent)

If you are going to drive an unknown trailer, maybe take a floor jack (for speed) or a bottle jack if that is what you have. Lift the wheel and spin the wheel. It should rotate smoothly and no grinding sound (even the brake shoes). If it is quiet, it might make it home.

I would also suggest that you take one of those hand held temperature measuring devices. Run down the road maybe 10 miles, then pull over and shoot both hubs and see what you get. Maybe another 10 miles and check again. Should be getting warmer, but both should be similar in temperature.

All good advice! Thank you. I may just end up bringing my tilt trailer and picking up. I don't want to loose a wheel bearing on the expressway.
 

Daybreak

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Howdy,
The MEP-802A is on a LTT-TQG.
The hub grease caps can come off. Old school greasing bearings. Sometimes someone tightens the castle nut to tight, and the hubs heat up. Make sure the parking brakes are off too. Double check hubs 3 miles down the road, and keep checking periodically.
Look over here.
Prepping a Gen trailer for the road home. | SteelSoldiers

and here
M1101/M1102/LTT-TQG any newer aluminum trailer height | SteelSoldiers

I see you are going to use your trailer to pick it all up.
Have a good trip.
Have your pickup authorization printed for release.
 

Mattguy

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Howdy,
The MEP-802A is on a LTT-TQG.
The hub grease caps can come off. Old school greasing bearings. Sometimes someone tightens the castle nut to tight, and the hubs heat up. Make sure the parking brakes are off too. Double check hubs 3 miles down the road, and keep checking periodically.
Look over here.
Prepping a Gen trailer for the road home. | SteelSoldiers

and here
M1101/M1102/LTT-TQG any newer aluminum trailer height | SteelSoldiers

I see you are going to use your trailer to pick it all up.
Have a good trip.
Have your pickup authorization printed for release.
Awesome, thanks!
 

DieselAddict

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.
North Carolina for example requires a tag and the insurance is inherited from your vehicle. South Carolina doesn't require a tag. You will need to comply with "the rules of the road" in your state.
Bilieve it or not but NC doesn’t require a tag for a generator. :)

Edit - that exemption may have been rescinded. :(
 
Last edited:

rickf

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Nobody has mentioned trailer lights. You are not going to be able to plug into the 24 volt trailer lights so a cheapo set of magnetic lights from Harbor Freight will get the job done. I would jack up each side and spin the tire and listen for any bad noises. If smooth and quiet I would probably just go for it with the heat checks mentioned above. But if any roughness or loose wheel then the bearing needs to be checked. Pull the nut and outer bearing and if that bearing is dry then the inner one will be also, if it is well greased and the wheel was just loose then I would not knock out the bearing before pulling the hub off and pushing in on, and turning the bearing by hand. This will tell you if it is rough or dry. I am guessing you are going about 150 moles and that is not all that much as long as they are greased, even if they are rough. They are fairly big bearings. But take jacks, jackstands, tools, grease and grease guns, lot of rags and roll towels and hand cleaner. Be prepared for the worst. I always took a trailer to bring my stuff home on, then check it out when I get home. Less worry that way. And in my state the trailer has to be registered and tagged.
 

Ray70

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West greenwich/RI
I've towed many of them long distances with no issues, but I would still suggest bringing your tilt trailer, just to be safe.
If you decide to flat tow, also be aware that depending on your hitch set-up, the safety chains will probably come up a few inches short of reaching, so bring a chain with hooks or bolts to be able to extend it.
With the 37" tires and surge brakes those gens tow really nice, provided everything is working correctly
 

asloan5

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gainesville fl
Along with the harbor freight lights a lot of zip ties most of the trailer is aluminum so you’re going to want to secure the magnetic light with zip ties and all the wiring to it because it’s extra long. I try to have one of them pressurized air tanks and tire gauge in case they can’t help me with filling up the tires. As well as a spare tire whatever tools I need for it and a floor jack.
 

loosegravel

Just a retired mechanic who's having fun!
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Location
Enumclaw, Washington
Also from Harbor Freight are these inexpensive pigtails. I bought a bunch of them and crimped some 14ga butt-connectors on the end of the wires. They fit directly over the top of the round pins in the military connector. Then remove the 24v bulbs from the taillight/brake lights and go down to NAPA to buy some 12v 1157 642909DA-CE1A-42F0-AF5D-BC3790C80042.jpeg15AF2758-B4FE-4D49-AADA-721500B395D5.jpegbulbs. I can’t remember what pins are the corresponding ones for the tail and turn/brake lights. There’s also a ground wire in that connector somewhere. Not hard to figure out.
 
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