Questions about removing deuce wheels

[bearboley]

You could tighten them by hand with a long enough bar I suppose. Just do not try a 1/2 inch impact won't even come close to doin it. Neverseize the inners and outters after you get them off be easier the next time

 

[hndrsonj]

Here is a very bad pic of the inside of a Snap On budd socket. See the inner square?

 

[hndrsonj]

A budd socket is just that, a budd socket. You will need that for the budd nuts holding the inside tires on. You will also need a 1 1/2" socket to get the outter rear tires and front tires off. The budd nuts are square drive.

As you can see from the pic above, use the socket to remove the lug nut, then use the inner "square" to remove inner tire. O'Rileys also sells them for under $30 each.

 

[gimpyrobb]

REMEMBER always pull to the rear no matter what side of the truck U are on to break lugs loose... Good Luck...

Thats only true if the breaker bar is in the 12:00 position!

 

[hndrsonj]

Thats only true if the breaker bar is in the 12:00 position!

And if the ratchets on "OFF"

 

[flyusn99]

A couple things. First I know what you're talking about with the HF bud socket, I have one from their 3/4" impact socket kit that is ONLY a bud socket. I wasn't aware there were the combo sockets that had both the bud and the 1 1/2 drives together in one until recently. Personally I think there are pros and cons to both which is why I keep both of them. (The bud only socket seems to grip better).
The other thing is when you first get a truck I and friends of mine have had MAJOR issues getting the lug nuts and sockets loose (one time we had to use a 3/4" breaker bar with a 15' (yes FIFTEEN foot) cheater bar on it and both of us jumping on it to get the lug nuts loose off of his M923). Seems sometimes its a sport in the army to see exactly how tight they can get the lug nuts before they snap off.
So once you get the truck and actually get the lug nuts and buds off then you can put the anti-seize on and torque them down to a reasonable amount (so they don't back off under normal use but they still don't need King Kong to loosen them). I have an Ingersol Rand 1/2" air impact wrench that works fine for both putting them on and taking them off. In fact I can't imagine NOT having it.
There are some tricks that can help you, like when removing the outer wheels on the duals driving the inner rear wheels up on a piece of 4x4 in order not to need jack it up. But the best thing to do is read up on the TM's in order to see some of the pitfalls that have gotten GI's of the past in trouble.. Some of the warnings will blow you're mind but some of the tips are quite insightful... Good luck either way!

James

 

[seabeeut]

look into a geared lug wrench there are several threads on this site showing them.
I got one off ebay and always have it with me thing is great
took off some lugs on my truck that my 3/4 impact would not budge.

 

[4x4 Forever]

As you can see from the pic above, use the socket to remove the lug nut, then use the inner "square" to remove inner tire. O'Rileys also sells them for under $30 each.

hndrsonj, I have one. Mine DOES NOT fit the 1 1/2" outer nut by just a fudge, that's why I use a 1 1/2" socket for the outer nut and the "does not fit outter' socket on the budd...I figure whomever made the combo socket did not swedge it out enough...Like one of them 'Monday morning or Friday afternoon built' FORDs...

 

[Jesse6325]

First off, The TM's are your friend and remember you ARE dealing with split rims.
Second you can get a combination budd/1 1/2 inch socket from NAPA for around $35.
Third, If you can find a torque multiplier you will love it, I have a 4X multiplier and I only have to put in 92 FT LBS to get 370 out of it. Remember, If you do get a torque multiplier do NOT! use an impact on it, If you do you will chew up the gears in the multiplier.
Just my worth.

 

[FormerNewMVGuy]

You could tighten them by hand with a long enough bar I suppose. Just do not try a 1/2 inch impact won't even come close to doin it. Neverseize the inners and outters after you get them off be easier the next time

Just remember, if you are using antiseize with a large impact tool, it will over tighten the nuts and pull the threads off the studs.....

 

[Heavysteven]

My setup is a 1" impact gun from Harbor freight and a 1 1/2" bud socket. I use the on board air to power the impact wrench.

Here is a video of me using the tire inflation adapter.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vszidVdgACQ&feature=relmfu[/media]

 

[Kohburn]

You might also want to check into a torque multiplier. Some guys I know in excavating swear by them.

Amazon.com: Torque Multiplier Truck Trailer RV Lug Nut Wrench: Home Improvement

Torque Multiplier Lug Wrench, 1:78 Ratio, Heavy-Duty - YouTube

I use one of these - freakin amazing

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-DRIVE-NO-...561?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item256f4dd841

can't use an impact gun with them, but i can use a cordless or electric drill with a socket on the end to speed it up.

 

[Darwin T]

everytime i step out i carry the full spread. i have one 3/4" 24 volt slave cable impact with a combination budd nut 1 1/2" with teh 13/16 square inside, a 3 to 1 torque multiplier, a reagular duece lug wrench like the one in post #9. i also carry a 20 ton hydralic jack (because i blew the seal in an 8ton so i skipped 12 and went to 20ton) and 12 ton jack stands and 4x6 oak cribbing. if you drive up on the cribbing the jack does not need to lift as high. i also have a 3/4" ingersol rand air impact in my M109a3 if it comes to it.

in my M1028 i have a 1/2" 24 volt slave cable impact with a 1" deep well impact socket that fits the lug nuts on it. i also have a 1 1/2" socket (without teh 13/16 square inside) to fit my M105 trailers that i move around with the M1028 just incase.

i have a 3 to1 torque multipier and the dual 1 1/2 by 13/16 square bud nut socket at the house that i am sending to a friend i will try to get a pictures of some of my traveling supplies.

i carry all of this because i travel by myself most of the time.

 

[Horst]

I am surprised that nobody listed the original geared lug wrench. To my knowledge only that one will help if the thimble turns with the nut. All of them did that on the now-gone deuce I had because they were so terribly corroded.

 

[Rustygears]

While I have both 3/4" and 1" drive air impacts, I always finish tighten my lugs using a 3/4 breaker bar and a 6' thick walled pipe. If the spec is for 475ftlbs lug torque, with 6 foot of total bar (the pipe slides over the breaker bar handle completely), a mere 80 ft lbs (a old-fashioned 'grunt') is 480 ft lbs based upon a 6 foot lever. Very repeatable and I'll never rip the threads off.

That's about as simple as it gets. I use air to zip lugs off, but often I have to use the breaker bar to crack them loose first. It that doesn't work, I use the farmer's old standby: smoke wrench. I keep a rosebud torch (#8 size) on my bottles just for this purpose.

 

[kc2vwi]

Torque Multiplier

A better deal on the ebay Torque Multiplier can be had here from the same seller:

Welcome To LugWrench.Biz

I have no affiliation, but I have been looking at them for a while. They only recently came back into stock.

I carry a HF 3/4 gun and a breaker bar for back up. I find that using a 5-10gal pony tank is key to getting the gun to develop more power.

Any one have any practical experience with these multiplier units?

 

[porkysplace]

I found after bring the truck home from GL and needing to do a break inspection with it stored in the middle of nowhere and a 6 foot pipe and 3/4 breakerbar laughed at me . I call the local tire guy to come out and break everything loose for $25 best money ever spent . Then torque back on by hand.

 

[Darwin T]

I am surprised that nobody listed the original geared lug wrench. To my knowledge only that one will help if the thimble turns with the nut. All of them did that on the now-gone deuce I had because they were so terribly corroded.

that is the 3 to 1 i was talking about.

the first picture is my gear wrench and 3/4" drive 24 volt impact that both go with me on trips.

the second picture is the inside of the budd nut socket the does both the outside ring and the inside thimble.

the 3rd picture is my support group

the 4th picture in in my M1028 with the 1 1/2" socket of the M105 trailers and the handle of my 1/2" drive 24 volt impact

the 5th picture is my 1/2" drive 24 volt impact with the 1" impact socket and extantion for the lugg nuts

i have changed 2 rear tires on one of my M35a2's (one inside left and one outside right) and i would hate to try it without the right tools. it has taken me several years to collect the right stuff. i will probably be collecting for several more just for tire changing.

 

[Darwin T]

here is my M1028 hauling my M105a3. the here is one of my M35a2's hauling one of my M101a2's. someday i will get it straight.

 

[Woodsplinter]

Today, I received the torque multiplier mentioned by kc2 in his earlier post. I ordered it from lugwrench.biz on Friday.
(Fast shipping!) ($160 incl. shipping)
I got my A2 deuce recently and haven't had any reason to take the wheels off.

After it got here I put on the 1-1/2" socket and proceeded to remove 4 of the lug nuts in about 5 minutes! (didn't want to take them all off)
It was very easy and I'm just a tall, thin guy.

The kit also includes a 13/16" bud nut socket but I didn't get that far.
The wrench has a 58:1 ratio.

To tighten you can attach a torque wrench and tighten using the included chart.
For ex: input 13 ft.lbs/ output 360 ft.lbs
20 ft.lbs = 640 ft.lbs.

I was really concerned after hearing all the horror stories, thought I would need to haul a 8 ft cheater bar around! Not now- weighs 20 lbs, fits easily in tool box.

Just thought I would pass this on so everybody knows what options are available!