Questions MEP803a

[2Pbfeet]

Update and question: I installed a new coolant gauge than I made up a load bank and ran it 3 times for 3.5 hours each and had it loaded to 75 percent each time. I checked the exhaust temps with a IR gun. From the radiator side to the gen head side, I had 260,300,320,and 380. Of course the temps are fluctuating by 50 degrees because I can't hold the red dot steady . Would this be some where near Normal?
Also, the frequency cable that is attached to the plate with the 2 stop screws: what would the normal position for that to be at? Mine has the plate very close to the stop screw closest to the center of the engine. And, on a side note: our last chicken became lunch for another critter. Now I can clean the coup out and put the generator in it for a nice home.

IR temperature meters are a little sensitive to surface effects (paint/no paint, rust vs. shiny), but I agree with @Light in the Dark 120F seems too much, if it is real. I would try to retake the temperatures from the same distance, with the same angle (preferably 90) to the manifold. IIRC: the exhaust port closest to the fan runs a little warmer, but only a little. Some IR temperature meters have average or max modes that may make it easier to collect readings consistently.

All the best,

2Pbfeet

 

[Light in the Dark]

IR temperature meters are a little sensitive to surface effects (paint/no paint, rust vs. shiny), but I agree with @Light in the Dark 120F seems too much, if it is real. I would try to retake the temperatures from the same distance, with the same angle (preferably 90) to the manifold. IIRC: the exhaust port closest to the fan runs a little warmer, but only a little. Some IR temperature meters have average or max modes that may make it easier to collect readings consistently.

All the best,

2Pbfeet

Yes its best to take the reading perpendicular to the surface for true consistency, but yes surface condition does come into play as 2PB said. I would expect the jug closest to the fan to be the coolest as its adjacent to the water pump... the water jacket at the top end goes between all the cylinders though, so unless you have a pocket of air stuck in the system (which is a possibility in these poorly designed cooling systems) the temperature differential should be minimal.

 

[Tims]

No that spread is too large. If you look at where the fuel lines break out from the rigid line (off the fuel filter bowl), down to the individual metering pumps... the hose mounts onto barbs there. Is the position of each fuel line connection in about the same position (ie... is it almost touching the push rod tube on each cylinder)?

As for the stops, unless they have been messed with... they are factory set. If your set reads 60hz, and you confirm with a handheld meter (not just trusting the gauge) then the stop position distances mean nothing. Its all about the engine being at 60hz. If you cannot achieve 60, thats a whole other ball game worth talking about in reference to possibly correcting stop positions (or other possibilities).

Each fuel hose is about a 1/4" from the push rod tubes.. The two pumps closest to the gen head are a little bit more than that.

 

[Light in the Dark]

All pumps need to be set as close to identically as possible... This rotational position is the visual representation of how much fuel you are letting the pumps pump (as the internal diaphragm rotates with the fuel rack, either allowing flow of fuel, or shutting it off).

I would think this might be an opportune time to adjust them into equal positions, and retest.

Edit: I would set each hose to get as close to the pushrod tube as it will allow.

 

[Tims]

All pumps need to be set as close to identically as possible... This rotational position is the visual representation of how much fuel you are letting the pumps pump (as the internal diaphragm rotates with the fuel rack, either allowing flow of fuel, or shutting it off).

I would think this might be an opportune time to adjust them into equal positions, and retest.

Edit: I would set each hose to get as close to the pushrod tube as it will allow.

Sounds like a plan to me. I am also going to take some better temp readings using my multimeter and the thermistor that came with it. Thanks for your time .

 

[Tims]

Had a chance to move the IP's closer to the pushrod tubes. Ran the unit at 75 Percent. Took various readings using the max on the IR gun and being more aware of where I was aiming and the position of the dot. The first reading starting from the front (radiator side) 268, 299, 299, 275.
The second reading after about 45 minutes 261,288,288,271. I think this makes more sense to me because of the firing order and the way the coolant is traveling thru the engine. I may be off base. I did take readings when I dropped it down to a 35percent load. 231,252,262,237. The decrease in temp was more than I thought it would be. Then again, I am learning what the "normal" is for this unit.
Thanks LITD and 2Pbfeet for your time and suggestions.

 

[Tims]

After running the generator again, I had roughly the same temps again. So, would it be safe to say that the temps are good and I should be ok? Its time to clean the shed/coop out and get it in there.

 

[Light in the Dark]

They look much better, I'd run it like that.

 

[Tims]

Thanks.