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Questions with rear tire air valve - broke!

silverstate55

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My apologies, I've been extremely busy lately...I apologize for the incorrect information, I bought some from Erik's in the past and they were 1/4", not 1/8" as you received....

Try a hydraulic hose repair shop, they usually stock the proper fittings.

Sorry about the misinformation and the wild goose chase you are on.
 

PapaPumpSD

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My apologies, I've been extremely busy lately...I apologize for the incorrect information, I bought some from Erik's in the past and they were 1/4", not 1/8" as you received....

Try a hydraulic hose repair shop, they usually stock the proper fittings.

Sorry about the misinformation and the wild goose chase you are on.
I got it squared away silver. And I appreciate everyone's assistance on here. No need to apologize. Your intentions were well received.

Take care,

Brent
 

PapaPumpSD

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Ok, so we put the 1/8" schrader valve on and reassembled the air hose from the CTIS to the tire. I tried filling up the tire with shop air and I don't think the tire is holding air....it sounds like the air is coming out over that rear axle (on top of it) somewhere and I've been hunched over for a while now filling that tire and I don't think it's filling-up. Can I not fill the tire via the external regular air valve (like a car's) via shop air? Or do I need to let the CTIS do the filling? :drool:
 

PapaPumpSD

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Ok team, thanks to all of you, we got the tire fixed! What is odd though is if we try to fill the tire with air via the exposed valve stem, it just leaks out over the rear axle somewhere (Dropbox video link below). Per the manual, you need to fill the tire where the CTIS hose connects to the schrader valve so that means we had to take off the air line and fill it from the schrader valve. No biggie, just odd. So we've filled the tire and it appears to hold air. We'll let it sit for a while to see if it maintains pressure before we fire it up and take it for a spin.

Recap of the solution to the tire valve:
1) We had to get a new air line made as the old one "fell apart" as we tried removing it from the truck: $40 custom tube w/fittings from a local industrial air shop (Whisler Industrial).
2) We purchased a 1/8" schrader valve from Ace Hardware: Part Number 38-900 Tru-Flate; Cost: $4.00.
3) We simply screwed the scrader valve into the threaded area on the rim. See photo.
4) We filled the tire back up via the scrader valve that we installed. Filling the tire from the regular exterior schrader valve did not work as seen in the video below.

M939A2 air valve Ace Hardware 38-900.jpgNew scrader valve rear tire M939A2.jpgFixed tire valve M939A2.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nhsk21ndb4aoyjc/VID_20160613_103420674.mp4?dl=0


 

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Csm Davis

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Ok team, thanks to all of you, we got the tire fixed! What is odd though is if we try to fill the tire with air via the exposed valve stem, it just leaks out over the rear axle somewhere (Dropbox video link below). Per the manual, you need to fill the tire where the CTIS hose connects to the schrader valve so that means we had to take off the air line and fill it from the schrader valve. No biggie, just odd. So we've filled the tire and it appears to hold air. We'll let it sit for a while to see if it maintains pressure before we fire it up and take it for a spin.

Recap of the solution to the tire valve:
1) We had to get a new air line made as the old one "fell apart" as we tried removing it from the truck: $40 custom tube w/fittings from a local industrial air shop (Whisler Industrial).
2) We purchased a 1/8" schrader valve from Ace Hardware: Part Number 38-900 Tru-Flate; Cost: $4.00.
3) We simply screwed the scrader valve into the threaded area on the rim. See photo.
4) We filled the tire back up via the scrader valve that we installed. Filling the tire from the regular exterior schrader valve did not work as seen in the video below.

View attachment 628230View attachment 628231View attachment 628232

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nhsk21ndb4aoyjc/VID_20160613_103420674.mp4?dl=0


That is probably because you didn't take out the actual valve from the part you replaced, which means you will have to let out a lot of your air to pull it out or your CTIS won't function properly.

sent from my decrepit fingers
 

PapaPumpSD

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That is probably because you didn't take out the actual valve from the part you replaced, which means you will have to let out a lot of your air to pull it out or your CTIS won't function properly.

sent from my decrepit fingers
Csm, the original shrader valve sheared in half so the valve inside was stuck in the schrader body. I didn't even know it could come out (I tried pulling it out thought but it didn't want to come out). Are you saying we should remove the valve in the Ace Hardware schrader assembly and replace it with a valve that would have originally come with an "OEM" shrader valve?

Thanks for your thoughts,

Brent
 
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Jbulach

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You have to unscrew the Schrader valve/valve core (The part in my hand, closest to the camera) from the new tank valve that you installed, with a special tool (the part farthest away from the camera in my hand).
You do not need to put anything back in its place.
If there was one inside of your old broken tank valve, you probably have CTIS issues.

Also to fill the tire with a valve core in place, crawl underneath your truck and look on the backside of your wheel for the valve stem that my finger is touching, you can air up your tires up and down from there without removing the hose.
 
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PapaPumpSD

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You have to unscrew the Schrader valve/valve core (The part in my hand, closest to the camera) from the new tank valve that you installed, with a special tool (the part farthest away from the camera in my hand).
You do not need to put anything back in its place.
If there was one inside of your old broken tank valve, you probably have CTIS issues.

Also to fill the tire with a valve core in place, crawl underneath your truck and look on the backside of your wheel for the valve stem that my finger is touching, you can air up your tires up and down from there without removing the hose.
This is very helpful! Thank you. I'll remove that valve core from the shrader valve. So there shouldn't be a valve stem/core in the shrader valve after I install it on the truck, correct? The shrader valve is supposed to simply act like a hollow "tube/connection point"? And yes, there was a valve stem inside of the original shrader valve I removed....it looked exactly like the one in your hand (the red thing).

I don't know if we have CTIS issues as we purchased the truck with an air issue and we have been replacing all sorts of parts since then (Haldex unit, air valves, air governor, horn solenoid, LQ2 brake valve, etc.) and now the truck is starting to make sounds it never did before (like things are actually working properly now!). We haven't messed around w/the CTIS to be honest. The tires hold air just fine so I haven't rocked the CTIS boat. I'd actually like to delete the CTIS but that's a project I'll leave for the next owner I think. Perhaps there's a segment of the MV market that likes it.
 

Jbulach

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If your tires all hold air, don't leak down and you're not interested in having a working CTIS, there's no need to delete the CTIS, Just leave that valve core in (this blocks off the CTIS from being able to work) and set all your tire pressure's using the valve stem on the backside.
I'm betting all your other wheels already have valve cores in them also...


M925A2 with dump hoist
 

PapaPumpSD

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If your tires all hold air, don't leak down and you're not interested in having a working CTIS, there's no need to delete the CTIS, Just leave that valve core in (this blocks off the CTIS from being able to work) and set all your tire pressure's using the valve stem on the backside.
I'm betting all your other wheels already have valve cores in them also...


M925A2 with dump hoist
J, my tires don't leak down. I'm also not interested in having a working CTIS as I've heard from others, including our former military mechanic, that those systems can fail and leave you stranded. I'd rather rely on the manual fill method. The CTIS concept sounds really functional, but unfortunately it's too buggy and risky so I'm fine not having it functional. And yes, you're probably right.....the other tires probably have valve stems in them! :???:

Thanks for chiming in!

Brent
 

Jbulach

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Don't write it off yet, I absolutely love mine. But the only thing I had to do, was fix a few air leaks and pull the valve cores out to get mine working. As far as leaving you stranded, just make sure if you get it working, always have six valve cores, an installation tool and a wrench to fit that hose in your truck at all times, so you can put those valve cores back in if necessary.


M925A2 with dump hoist
 

PapaPumpSD

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Don't write it off yet, I absolutely love mine. But the only thing I had to do, was fix a few air leaks and pull the valve cores out to get mine working. As far as leaving you stranded, just make sure if you get it working, always have six valve cores, an installation tool and a wrench to fit that hose in your truck at all times, so you can put those valve cores back in if necessary.


M925A2 with dump hoist
You're the 2nd guy that's said he's really enjoyed the CTIS. Hmmm, makes me want to check all the tires to see make sure no valve cores are in! And I completely agree with keeping the valve cores and other items in the truck as a CTIS "insurance policy". :beer:
 

Ford Mechanic

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I'm not a fan of the CTIS either. I've heard enough failure stories that I'll just do it by hand. I've got enough broke things here on the farm without adding to it.
 

therooster2001

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Count me as the third to enjoy my CTIS, I even run it at the upgraded 70 on highway. It's a multi part, yet simple concept. Stay with it, if things really get bad, just disconnect the ECU. If things leak then you probably needed to fix them anyway..
 
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