Quick & efficient starting

[dom1986ck30]

Aloha, I was wondering who might be able to jump in on this one. - 1986 M1008 6.2. - It has started fine for awhile. I want it to start like others I have seen and heard via videos or in person. My truck has new glow plugs, new/rebuild Stanadyne (IP), strong voltage, electric fuel pump, new fuel filter, starter in good shape. Just replaced flywheel. When I start the truck, it takes about 10-15 seconds to warm up the glow plugs. But when I turn the key, it drags (turning over sound), for about 5-10 seconds. It will start and it drives and sounds like a CHAMP!!! I am curious to know what makes others start in 1-2 seconds after glow plugs have done their job. Am I missing anything? Mahalo.

 

[sandcobra164]

Aloha, I'm going to offer an opinion as it has worked well on my truck. Some may disagree but I'm not trying to start the great glow plug debate of the Christmas 2017 season. I did the DH resistor bypass and solely run my glow plugs on the 12 volt lug next to the solenoid. I only had to drill the eyelet of the ring connector out to accomplish this. I also replaced all of my glow plugs (1/2 were burnt out, missing tips, etc.) with AC60G's. This requires installing new female spade terminals which I did or grinding down the male end of the spade terminal on the glow plug as the AC's have a wider spade than the original Wellmans. This cured my hard starting truck. I've never lived in Hawaii but I'd imagine your temperatures are likely similar to South Georgia in terms of cold. On my coldest start of the M1028, it was positive 17F and it did just fine. Prior to making the changes, I'd have similar starting issues due to the defective glow plugs. I know you stated you installed new ones but if just one has an issue (bad connection or otherwise) the rest see too much voltage and fail in short order. The issue with the stock firewall resistor system has been discussed and once again, everyone is entitled to their opinion about what is best for your truck and it's use. The only thing 24 volt on mine is the starter and I'm keeping it that way for the rare occasion that the 5 ton needs to be slaved off or vice versa. If you don't have a 2nd truck, I'll only advise that these are "herd animals", they like similar company. Mahalo!

 

[dom1986ck30]

Mahalo sandcobra164, sounds like you have played with this a little. I will check all the wiring and look at the glow plugs. Maybe gauge of wire and other connections might play a roll in this problem/concern. I got the glow plugs from a Michigan distributor/manufacturer. ACCURATE DIESEL. Not sure if any others have heard of or have any say on them. Nice guy, owner, he sent me the new fuel lines for the IP as well. It is sounding like I am going to have to put some time into the electrical system. Mahalo again for your input

 

[gimpyrobb]

What condition are your fuel injectors in? That plays a huge part in start-ability. If the spray pattern or pop pressure(or both) is wrong, it will be hard to start quickly.

Also, have you tested the glow plugs? Just cause you bought them doesn't mean they work right. I've had some that didn't glow right on the tip. Thats where they need to glow.

 

[dom1986ck30]

Aloha gimpyrobb, I have not tested the glow plugs. I bought them new. Assuming, I take it, is not the way. How do I test? As far as the injectors... I had my IP rebuilt a couple months ago, or 250 miles ago. Paid BIG $$$$.$$ for it. Rebuilt IP, new lines, and new glow plugs. Mahalo

 

[snowtrac nome]

If your starter is dragging look at the batterys, or starter, a gear reduction starter is a good upgrade. If your motor isn't sinning fast enough it wont build the heat to start.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Pull the glow plugs out and hook them to a batt charger. Be carefull not to burn yourself, the tips get red hot. As long as the very tip lights up, its good.

I didn't ask about the injection pump, I asked about the injectors. They are one of the most important aspects of how the truck(motor) runs. it is a fuel system and it all has to be in "spec".


Edit, that sounds condescending, but isn't meant to be. I just don't know how much you know about the motors.

 

[Barrman]

The first start of the day takes 5-10 seconds of cranking is what you started this thread with. Is there any smoke out the exhaust once it does start?

Greasy looking and smelling white/gray smoke indicates fuel but no heat. Glow plugs.

No smoke of any kind and the engine running smooth right at cold start up as you wrote normally means slow turning starter. Batteries, wiring, starter motor.

How are all the rest of the start ups for the day? Does each and every start no matter how warm the engine is take 5-10 seconds? If so, starter speed or fuel system is where to look. The glow plugs are not used once the engine gets over 124° coolant temperature.

 

[sandcobra164]

Aloha,
I'm interested in the answer Barrman asked in concern of how it starts once warm. I only thought of cold starts when I posted. I started mine on a balmy (kidding) 70 degree day this afternoon. Normal glow plug cycle and it started about as soon as I turned the switch. Probably less than 1 second of starter engaged time. It had sat for about 2 weeks prior to today. I needed to put some fresh fuel in it for the Parade on Saturday and it was between 1/8 and 1/16th on the gauge. Filled up the tank and it's still running like a top. Put it on the battery charger today, front battery read 70 percent and back battery read 66 percent. Front battery took a full charge and waiting for back battery to get done. I have some Hawker 6TAGM's in it, way more than a 6.2 needs to start. I was kind of surprised they were low but we'll fix it. Truck still spins over quickly.

 

[Tinstar]

If your starter is dragging look at the batterys, or starter, a gear reduction starter is a good upgrade. If your motor isn't sinning fast enough it wont build the heat to start.

I was having trouble starting.
Finally wouldn’t.

After testing several things, turns out it was starter.
Installed new starter, problem solved.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...done-to-your-CUCV-today-lately-Part-2/page671

 

[dom1986ck30]

Aloha All, Interesting information. And thank you... When it has been running and I start it up again throughout the day, no problems whatsoever. Maybe 5 seconds holding the warmer button. Which leads me to say that I forgot to mention that an after or modification was made. I have a button to push. I turn the key forward/start, then hold the button the previous owner installed. This is where it could be some electrical. I also feel that with the mention of starter problems... I should check that too. It is just the first start that it takes to the starting procedure that I originally posted. Mahalo.

 

[gimpyrobb]

HA!

Try holding that button for 10seconds before you try to start it. Report back after please.

 

[Barrman]

Stop! What glow plugs do you have? Unless they are Delco 60G glow plugs. Holding more than 10 seconds can cause them to burn out, swell or even explode inside the pre cup. You can do 10 seconds, but I wouldn't do anymore.

Have you replaced the glow plugs yet? 10mm socket and a cold engine are all it takes. Well, maybe a stool to stand on and a fender cover too. If you don't have 60G's in there, you need to get a set. They are around $8.00 each here. I would also suggest anti seize on the threads when you put in the new ones. If your truck has never had 60G's, then you will need to either cut off part of the male connector on the glow plug to fit the stock wire female plug or replace the female plug on the wiring harness.

 

[dom1986ck30]

Aloha, (At Cold), I held the glow plug warmer button for 9 seconds. Starts after 4-5 seconds of turning over. I suppose that it doesn't need to be held too long. Started a little faster, that's for sure. It is the turn over to start/run time that I am curious about now, I suppose. The glow plugs were purchased with the IP rebuild a few months ago from Accurate Diesel. What kind are they? I need to look. Mahalo...

 

[Chaski]

You need to pull and test all of the glow plugs. Even though they are not that old does not mean they still function. Do you own a multimeter?

 

[dom1986ck30]

Aloha, Yeah, I have a multi-meter. What procedure do I use to test Chaski?

 

[Tinstar]

You need to read the TMs and stickies and old threads.
Testing glow plug procedure has been covered a lot.

 

[Chaski]

Yep, read the TM. If you scroll to the top click on the “Technical Manuals” link then find what you need.

That being said if the previous owner did some electrical modifications who knows how far your glow plug design has drifted from OE design.

Put your multimeter on DC volts, measure the voltage on each glow plug to ground when the push button is pushed (don’t hold the button down for more than a few seconds at a time). Check all 8. That will show if any of the fuseable links are burnt open, should get somewhere between 11 and 24 bolts depending on how many glow plugs are bad and if your rig still has the original ballast resistor. No voltage at some means you have some burnt fusable links most likely from shorted glow plugs. No voltage at any of them means something else is screwed up like an open ballast resistor or a bad solenoid.


Next place your multimeter on ohms. Disconnect all 8 glow plug connectors. Measure the resistance of each glow plug to ground. I think they are supposed to be about 2 ohms. When they fail the usually fail open, so you will read no continuity or a heck of a lot more ohms than 2 ohms. Sometimes they fail shorted and that is when they will blow the individual fused link.

You’ll probably find some bad glow plugs. The bad part about the ballast resistor is when glow plugs fail open it changes the “balance” between the resistor and the glow plugs, applying higher voltage to the remaning good glow plugs. It can result in a cascading failure where it takes out all the plugs.

if you do find some bad read up on swollen glow plugs before you try to replace them.

Good luck!

 

[edpdx]

dom1986ck30, I'd agree with all recommendations. I had a slow starting M1009. Slow to start, slow to warm, slow to find gears until warmed-up. I changed the starter- found the PO had been using a 12 volt starter, no bracket. I installed new fuel injector lines and glow-plugs, but still had slow starts. This fall I found a new leak at the filter base, but even after a new filter I had problems with starting it; it cranked but took a while to catch. It would run a few seconds and then die. Folks here said it was a fuel leak in a line or at an injector. Some urged me to change the stock fuel filter to a spin-on. I did. I also put new injectors and glow plugs in. It starts like new now. It finds gear right away- even when cold- The new transmission pickup tube with double o-rings helped.

1, new 60G plugs (if your new ones are the wrong ones- or if you've left the key on too long and burned them up already. 2, new injectors. 3, spin-on fuel filter. I have an extra one you can have. Finally, consider putting your primary (start-up) wiring back as it should be; it makes it easier to get help here, and you won't have to remember how to service hacked systems down the road when you have long forgotten how you jerry-rigged things and have no notes to refer to. Hang loose.

 

[dom1986ck30]

edpdx, Yeah, I was thinking of going in reverse... Get my electrical in order. Good point. Get everything back in stock order somewhat. Gonna order the whole dash, gauges, control panel, fuse box, etc... get it done. Messy. Would be nice to turn the key and see original light glow for start. Besides LMC and E-Bay, hmmm gotta do some research on where for these items. Mahalo