Radiator

[FormerNewMVGuy]

That is the directionof my fan also. I went and looked!! When i put card board up in front of the truck in the winter it sucks it right fast! Like it is supposed to?
Isnt the fan suppose to suck the air through? Or blow it towards the radiator.........See now im all confused and will go out and look at all my trucks

 

[doghead]

Scott, it will suck air in from the front, into the engine compartment(even if you flip it over accidentally, just not as well). If you look close at the picture in this post, Look at the curvature of the blade, that is where you'll notice a difference.(Steve's is backwards)

right----- Engine ) radiator
wrong----Engine ( radiator

the parentheses are representing the fan blade curve and which way it faces.

 

[Jake0147]

I wonder..............

The blades always angle the right direction, but they are obviously curved and more efficient in the correct direction. I wonder how much less efficient both in terms of air flow and in terms of drag on the engine, if one were to "flip the fan" for the cooler months when it takes a full throttle and an endless hill (or a proper arctic kit) to keep the engine up to temperature anyhow... Probably not that much difference, but seeing as the trucks don't "act up" terribly that way, maybe I'll have to see how it works come fall.

 

[sermis]

May fan is marked with a "F" on one side. Does that me front / foward? If so than the fan is right.

I was able to get the other plug out using a heat wrench and pipe wrench. With the return hose on the water pump will the water flow through the filter ok?
I was thinking before with the return hose on the upper plug but after the thermostat it would flow. I almost gave up on getting the plug out and then it started turning and came out.

 

[FormerNewMVGuy]

Scott, it will suck air in from the front, into the engine compartment(even if you flip it over accidentally, just not as well). If you look close at the picture in this post, Look at the curvature of the blade, that is where you'll notice a difference.(Steve's is backwards)

right----- Engine ) radiator
wrong----Engine ( radiator

the parentheses are representing the fan blade curve and which way it faces.

Thanks Eric Yeah i went out and looked at all the trucks i have here and they were all the same, I hate when i start seacond guessing myself

 

[WillWagner]

Steve, the suction needs to before the inlet of the w/p. The plug on the side should be correct. The fan will still pull air in the direction yours is in, but not as good. Turn it around and the temp should hug the stat, around 160 to 180.

 

[sermis]

Well my truck is not the only one with the fan that way. I have a truck that just came out of DRMO that I traded for. SF97 has not even cleared yet. The fan in that truck is the same way. I looked at my parts truck that came from a fire department. The fan is flipped over in it.

 

[sermis]

Any idea why the fan has a "F" on one side? I would think that means foward but if that is the case then my fan in backwards on the truck.

 

[WillWagner]

The "F" could just be a manufacturers mark. The fan should go on like in the top pic, the side facing up goes toward the engine. I have seen this a hundred times. The fan will still pull air, just not as it is supposed to or enough CFM across the core. The end result is usually a slow steady overheat in warmer ambient temps. In cooler weather, it works OK. Think of the blades as a scoop. As the fan sits in the top pic, it is gonna grab alot of air and scoop it away from the core and out into the engine compartment...as it sits in the bottom pic, it is still scooping, but the air is being forced back into the oncomming fan blades and toward the core instead of pulling it out and away from it.

 

[littlebob]

I just dropped off my radiator yesterday and was quoted $125 to rod it. I will check my fan before I put it in.
The guy at the shop said he can't get the top and bottom tanks anymore. I hope he is not setiing me up for some scheme.
littlebob

 

[WillWagner]

They are soldered joints. I would think a good shop could re seal the tank. What abuot an ultrasonic cleaning? Nothing comes apart then.

 

[littlebob]

They are soldered joints. I would think a good shop could re seal the tank. What abuot an ultrasonic cleaning? Nothing comes apart then.

Thanks Will,
I not familiar with ultrasonic cleaning. Louisiana is the last place to get new technology.
The shop has been in business for a while and I hope they are reputable. I've horror stories of people having thier radiators repainted and not cleaned and charged for
rodding and cleaning. It sounds like there are a couple of rocks,nuts or bolts rolling around, so I will check for the loose parts when I pick up.
littlebob

 

[WillWagner]

Where ever you take it, tell them to NOT paint the core. The paint radiator shops use seems to never dry and, I have seen it add 10 degrees to the system temps.

 

[littlebob]

Where ever you take it, tell them to NOT paint the core. The paint radiator shops use seems to never dry and, I have seen it add 10 degrees to the system temps.

Picked up my radiator today. The guy called me to see if I wanted painted and I told him Will said no. Ithink I rember reading it should be black, Is this correct or should I just paint it the same color as the truck? If black, gloss or flat?
littlebob

 

[WillWagner]

I would do the tanks, not the core. .
Ultrasonic leaves the paint, so the tanks and core are still OD on mine. Even the label on the fill neck stayed in one piece.

 

[sermis]

Ok now I am really confused. I flipped the fan around when I had the radiator out. (right way?) My truck has been down until today, about a month. When I got my radiator back the upper neck was leaking so I pulled the radiator again and had it re-soldered. When I put it back in the radiator hose behind the oil filters was leaking so I pulled it back down and fixed the hose. Then the oil cans were leaking so I ordered the JA TANKA conversion. From me forgetting to mail the check and JA being out of town I got the kit today. Really like the filters. Anyway I took the truck for a drive. Temp hit 200 + in about 5 miles and rising. I got back home and flipped the fan back around. 190 and holding with my foot in it. The outside air temp dropped some but I was driving it hard. Before flipping the fan I was on the interstate running all it would go with air temps at 101 to 103 and it stayed at 200. With the 395’s it pulls hard. Explain why it will make that much difference with the fan flipped. I can see where the scoop in the fan should pull more air but my fan is now back like it was before and the temp is lower and holding.

 

[madsam]

I would think these Radiators can be fixed for less than the amount they want for used ones. I have fixed smaller ones for pickups by using a propane torch and wire wheel on a drill to remove old solder, then using a high tin or silver solder to seal it back up. The issue is to not over heat any part of the core. you can create more leaks if you are not carefull.

 

[neilhendrix]

I just pulled my RAD and had it repaired and reinstalled it yesterday. $70.00 rodded/cleaned fixed up. Runs 180-190 . The guy said it would cost $200-$300 t0 re-core if I needed it done . He`s a vet and that might have helped. Now I gotta go check the fan HMMMMM .