Random Long Cranking to Start

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Sometimes my LDT-465 equipped A2 can sit weeks and I hit the button and it lights right off with no throttle. Sometimes it can sit a day and it will have to crank for 15 seconds and need some throttle. It is not temperature dependent. Should I be looking at an FDC bypass?

If I should be doing an FDC bypass:

I run a lot of waste motor oil, waste ATF, waste hydraulic fluid, etc with about 20% diesel and rarely any gas, maybe a gallon or two. I watch my EGTs with a digital pyrometer. Will an FDC bypass have any adverse effects given my range of fuel? From what I read, I just have to watch EGTs and adjust/tune accordingly as always.

 

[Flyingvan911]

Usually the FDC will pour your fuel into the crank case. Most people do bypass it just as a reliability matter. I don't know that it would affect your crank time.

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

It was suggested to me that the FDC sticking or doing something to supply fuel at the incorrect rate could be causing the long crank issue.

 

[patracy]

When was the last filter change? How do you prepare your WMO? Ever run it empty? What's your fuel pressure?

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

I have a mechanical fuel pressure gauge from the top of the secondaries, the reading escapes me but I know the needle always stays in the same range. I'm going to take it for a spin Friday and I'll write down the readings.

Filters are a year old and due to be changed with upcoming spring maintenance. Truck doesn't feel sluggish or anything requiring a change sooner.

WMO sits months for water to separate then filtered down to 5 micron with duda diesel socks.

Never been run empty on my watch.

 

[patracy]

Take a look at my thread, lots of good info there

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...n-of-testing-fuel-system-failure-of-Hyd-Head)

You should see 5-7psi master switch on before hitting the starter.

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

That is a well documented saga. I was stuck reading it through to the end after I got the pressure info I needed to look for.

 

[steelandcanvas]

That is a well documented saga. I was stuck reading it through to the end after I got the pressure info I needed to look for.

Ditto!

 

[sandcobra164]

I don't think it's a leaky connection from my experience. Read all of what I'm about to post. I messed up a line that feeds the intake flame heater when I installed my C Turbo. It would still crank right up every time but would shut off about 15 seconds afterward. It would then take 30 seconds on the starter to get started again. I repaired that and I am good to go again. NOW, later down the road, I ran my truck low on fuel as in somewhere in the neighborhood of less than 5 gallons or so. It was a pain to start, idle would hunt but it would run fine down the road. Park on a downward hill, it'd start fine. At first I drained the fuel filter, bled it back out, started it and she was running perfect. Looked at the fuel guage and saw just below 1/4 and thought, well that's about 10 gallons or so. Can't be a supply problem. I decided to pull the strainer and look into the tank. Couldn't have been more than an 1 1/2" of fuel down there. Well there we go, don't trust the gauge if it's below half. Tried to drive home and she started stalling at idle but would run just fine under throttle. I pulled into the fuel station, she was trying to stall so I pulled the hand throttle out till she settled at 1200 rpms. I started fueling her up and about the time I had added 8 gallons of diesel, she quit hunting and shot up to 2600 rpms and was hard against the governor. I let off the nozzle and went to the driver's side, pushed the hand throttle back in and she settled right back to her old smooth steady idle. To make this all relevant to your original question, I run alot of filtered waste oil through this truck as well. Next time it takes a long time to start, check your fuel tank level as it may be that simple and I hope it is. Injection pump issues are not fun or cheap.

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

I'll have to check my hoses in the tank.

To ask again, can I bypass my FDC, given the fuels I run, with no adverse effects?

 

[patracy]

I'll have to check my hoses in the tank.

To ask again, can I bypass my FDC, given the fuels I run, with no adverse effects?

Yes, you may bypass it.

 

[Ford Mechanic]

I'll have to check my hoses in the tank.

To ask again, can I bypass my FDC, given the fuels I run, with no adverse effects?

Mine's bypassed, I run 75% waste oil. No problems. Get a pyro to fine tune the fuel screw by so it's not too hot.

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Get a pyro to fine tune the fuel screw by so it's not too hot.

I got that part down!

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

My truck was off the road for about a year but now it's bobbed and I'm driving it a lot more. My fuel mix is pretty regular now: 25% waste cooking oil, 50% waste motor oil, and 25% gasoline, with it sitting to remove water and then filtering as previously described. The truck runs awesome once it starts that first time from totally cold. Highway performance is awesome and the truck has plenty of power. It's pretty regularly hard to start for that first cold start of the day. I have to crank for 2 or 3 10-second intervals with my foot to the floor for it to stutter to life. I have the FDC bypassed now, filters are fine, and I recently cleaned out both of my fuel tanks and made sure the in tank pumps were adjusted. I can hear the in tank pump when I turn the main power on.

I read in a few threads that say the manifold flame heater doesn't work with waste oil. Is this true, and if so, why? I don't know if it works it all and I need to tear into it. I guess it isn't too useful if it doesn't work with WO and I might look for an original ether start system. I also plan on starting to use my block heater on a timer for the coming days when I plant to drive it it work to see if that helps.