Re-Powering The Deuce With A 5-Ton LDS-465-1A Engine

[SasquatchSanta]

Today was a long day.

We pulled to LDT engine --- getting ready to drop in the LDS

Here are pictures of today's activity --- more to follow.

 

[gimpyrobb]

So are you nealing next to the truck?

 

[clinto]

You gonna paint it in the engine compartment while it's out?

 

[Armada]

Now would be a good time to drill and tap 2 holes pre turbo for a pyrometer if you haven't already.

 

[SasquatchSanta]

The man that won't go to Gary Indiana sez:

So are you nealing next to the truck?

As tired as I am, if I were to neal I would never be able to get back up.

Clinto sez:

You gonna paint it in the engine compartment while it's out?

Yes. First a good pressure washing and degreasing then several coats of Dyna Spray thermal shield/sound deadener.

Armada sez:

Now would be a good time to drill and tap 2 holes pre turbo for a pyrometer if you haven't already.

I agree. I'm removing the turbo tomorrow morning so we can drill and tap two holes, one in each side of the manifold. My pyro is currently reading post turbo EGTs. I recently purchased another sensor and a switch so I can read pre and post turbo EGTs. Once I've ran some tests to see exactly what the temperature spread is I'm going to move the post turbo sensor to the vacant side of the manifold. Since I've already got two sensors I might as well use them. Being able to read EGTs on either side/end of the manifold will make it easy to diagnose an injector or cylinder problem.

I'm also installing a pre-lube system, Amsoil by-pass filter to go with builder77s spin-on 1970 filters, oil temp gauge, and two additional oil pressure gauges --- one pre filter and one post filter. With three oil pressure gauges I hope to be able to safely tinker with the setting on the oil filter by-pass valve.

Engine compartment space for the by-pass filter, pre-lube pump etc. is at a premium. The stock deuce personnel (cab) heater takes up a lot of room and is always in the way. I took the top off my heater to remove the core for PM repair and found that the core only occupies a small portion of the heater box. To save space I'm shortening the heater box and mounting base by six inches. Every little bit helps.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Have you used the Dyna spray before? I have been looking it over since it available near me. I would like the input from someone who has used it.

 

[jwaller]

you could always mount the entire heater in the cab like on the A3's.

 

[jeli]

monty, the 3208 is just a very noisey engine. the fuel knock is very loud and i had to have hearing protection not because of the exhaust but because of the engine noise. i had a new engine and we chased the noise several times even changing brands of pistons. but as i said i had a stock ldt radiator that had been cleaned and with no shroud for 3 years and 10000 miles. the only time it ran hot was above 5000' altitude because the fuel rate was too high.

Thanks it was just an idea, I may look at changing the gas engine to a multi fuel or some diesel engine as I learn more about waht was offered and what would make a clean efficent install.

Thanks
Chad

Makes me sick to think my company had a 3126 cat they gave a way for $3500.00 It was an industrial engine on a skid. Less than 100 hrs on it. It was either a mechanical fuel injection or self contained. Like them of not it would have been an easy install.

 

[SasquatchSanta]

Spent the day swapping the bellhousing, flywheel starter ect. from the old LDT engine to the new LDS.

Transfered the 5-micron (builder77) spin-on filter assemblies over to the new engine --- see pics.

Also reduced the size of the heater to gain more under-hood space --- see pics.

 

[OPCOM]

oh no!! the secret!! Hey now would be a good time to do a real good check on the steering box and maybe the compressor air line (mine passes under it out of reach and that is where it has rubbed and leaks..)

 

[clinto]

Ditto to OPCOM's statement-those steering boxes are a nightmare with the engine in, taking care of it now might be a good idea.

 

[SasquatchSanta]

Ditto to OPCOM's statement-those steering boxes are a nightmare with the engine in, taking care of it now might be a good idea.

Thanks for the heads up guys.

jwaller sez:

you could always mount the entire heater in the cab like on the A3's.

I'd like to know more about this. Do you have a picture or cartoon (drawing)?

Thanks.

 

[jeli]

Since you reduced the size of the heater you might want to add another under the dash. I found this at Northern. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_21785_21785

 

[SasquatchSanta]

The project is starting to come together. Today the LDS engine jumped up off the floor and into the truck.

The LDS-1A engine shown ready to drop in. The 5-Ton bell housing and flywheel had been exchanged fora deuce configuration. The 5-Ton starter has been re-clocked and installed with 20MM spacer from deuce. Oil pan had been reversed and the 5-Ton oil pump sump plumbing exchanged for deuce (Reo) sump plumbing. Oil dip stick moved. Five-micron 1970XE spin-on fiilters installed. The oil pan has been modified for the pre-lube pump feed and external by-pass Amsoil oil filter discharge. The manifold heater system has been removed.

We're going to finish buttoning up the engine tomorrow and the pre-lube pump on Friday.

Next week we install the Mr. Fission and Flux Capacitor

 

[ARMYMAN30YearsPlus]

OK quick refresher for me since I can't go out and look under the hood (7,000 miles away) is my 1970 M35 A2:
an LD-465-1,1C-------62 lb/hr (min) 126HP
or a LDT-465-1C,1D--- 64 lb/hr (min) 130HP
or a LDS-465-1--------- 80 lb/hr 170-185HP

I know it does not screem and starts really well

 

[gimpyrobb]

David, are you referring to the turbo boost with the lb/hr referrance?

 

[houdel]

David, are you referring to the turbo boost with the lb/hr referrance?

That is the fuel flow rate at rated horsepower.

 

[SasquatchSanta]

Perhaps Small minds amuse easily but I find it fascinating how an engine that has been in hibernation for going on 20 years can explode to life and run as if it had just finished a west coast turn-around.

In case that didn't tip my hand, we started the new LDS engine today. I'm amazed as to how much quieter it is compared to my old LDT engine and also how much more throaty it sounds. Several guys in the shop said it sounds more like a Mack that a Multi.

After start-up I drove it out of the building and ran it @ 1,500 RPMs for approx 30 minutes. It ran long enough to get up to full operating temperature so we could test all the gauges along with the electric fan controls and check for leaks. All went perfect except for an air pressure problem. We "may" have the alcohol injector plumbed backwards. "Oops"

The project took longer than originally planned because of all the extras that were added. They include the pre-lube pump, Amsoil by-pass filter and a different cab heater configuration. To make room for the pre-lube pump and make the drivers side of the engine more friendly we moved the existing Deuce heater from the engine compartment to an under dash mount and also added an axillary heater under the passengers seat. We also added two (1-front and 1-rear) freeze plug block heaters and two oil pan heaters to accompany the already installed battery heaters and float charger.

Reconfiguring the LDS engine for the Deuce was also time consuming in that Reo style (Deuce) oil pan sump plumbing had to be added and the bell housing, flywheel and clutch assembly had to be exchanged. The electronic oil pressure gauge was replaced with three mechanical gauges and the electronic temperature gauge was replaced with mechanical water and oil temp gauges.

The 24 Volt Bendix pump will build 50 pounds of oil pressure at the standard oil pressure gauge (Nr 6 Rod) port in approx 15 seconds. After the pump builds pressure I stop pushing the pump button and start pushing the starter button. The engine oil pump will hold the pressure while the engine is cranking.

I also have pressure guages at the pre-filter (drain) port and post filter (sampling) port. The pre filter gauge will go up to 95 PSI. More on pressure readings later --- as I run more tests.

After running approx 20 minutes the engine warmed up to 190 degrees (both oil and water temps) the oil pressure readings settled in at 50 PSI at Nr 6 Rod, 52 PSI immediately after the filters (post filter) and 62 PSI between the oil pump and filters (pre-filter). During warm-up oil pressure readings were appreciably higher. (More to follow on oil pressure readings.)

Some pictures are attached. Because the pre-lube pump is new and therefore somewhat experimental we elected to mount it where it is easy to access. In the pictures below the alcohol evaporator is mounted below the pump.

This configuration leavs room the for "Mister Fission" assembly to be mounted between the firewall and the pre-lube pump. The only tell tale sign will be a second intake mushroom.

More to follow.

 

[JDToumanian]

Looks great! Congratulations! I bet it was a very satisfying day...

Jon

 

[cranetruck]

Congrats Ernie! I have a bunch of questions, of course, but will wait for further reports.