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re-wiring my MEP-004a for different voltages, including single phase

sewerzuk

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Seaside, OR
So…most of us with 3 phase MEP generator sets have wondered if it is possible to rewire the set for something other than 120/208 or 240/417v. Some have asked the question in the forum here and the consensus seems to be that it won’t work. I think it will.

*I am using one of my MEP-004a’s for testing, so the numbers I am posting are related to its power/current/voltage ratings.

Why re-configure? Well, many of the people who own these generators use them only in single phase, at 120/208v. According to the TM, this is permissible, and the vast majority of 240v appliances operate just fine at 208v. But…there are a few loads that don’t like 208v. And, you are limited to 100% of rated current for each phase; so unless you are sending power to 2 separate services, you can only get about 43A, or 9kW. Re-configuring the set for its intended use nets you more useable power, and provides more appropriate voltage for the loads.

I began thinking about the possibility of re-configuring my MEP-004a the other day, and spent a few hours reading through Steelsoldiers and Smokstak; although there were a few stories of a guy who knew a guy whose buddy’s brother-in-law rewired an MEP for single phase, I couldn’t find a single post by somebody who had actually attempted it. I went a step further, and wondered if it would be possible to wire the generator in a 3 phase delta configuration, thinking that 120/240 delta would be useful for the small shop with several large 240v 3 phase loads, and a requirement for a light single phase 120v load. So, I spent another few hours poring over the schematics. Here are the conclusions I come up with:

The MEP’s use a standard 12 lead generator head. That means that, from the generator’s point of view, pretty much any standard voltage is possible. The problem is in the generators instrumentation and control system…the current transformers for the ammeter and safety trips are designed around a 3 phase wye setup. There is no provision for single phase in how the CT’s are wired. However…this doesn’t mean that single phase isn’t possible, it just means that there might be a few “quirks” to deal with when running single phase. I think that all of the safety trips will still function properly, as they are all designed around current passing through the individual windings of the generator. It doesn’t matter how the load is placed on those windings…the cumulative current is what is important and that will not change. The wattmeter should work properly. I believe that the voltmeter will also work properly; it will indicate line voltage as designed and simply read 0 when switched to the phase not being used (for single phase). The ammeter should also indicate current…however it may be a little confusing. It may indicate actual line current, ½ line current, or 1/√3 line current depending on how the switch is selected and the method I choose to re-wire the generator. This is because of where the CT measures the current (it may be possible to re-wind the CT to work properly, but I’ll jump that hurdle if my re-wire actually works and produces useable power). The voltage regulator should also work properly; it is designed to provide 120v per winding and that is all that is needed to produce the voltages that I am aiming for. 480v 3 phase delta is not possible with this generator, as it requires 240v per winding. I believe the following configurations are possible:

3 phase:
1. 417/240v wye (adjustable from 348/200v up to 480/277v) This is a factory-installed voltage
2. 208/120v wye (adjustable from 173/110v up to 240/138v) This is a factory-installed voltage
3. 240/120v Delta (adjustable from 200/100v up to 277/138v) This does change how current flows through the CT’s and may cause problems with the overload trip and ammeter reading
4. 120v Delta (adjustable from 100v to 138v) I don’t think this is a very useful configuration…don’t know of too many 120v 3 phase loads. But, it should be possible. Same CT issues as 240/120v delta.

Single Phase (both 120/240v configurations produce the same power, just different methods of wiring):
1. 120/240v Double Delta (adjustable from 100/200v up to 138/277v) Same issues with the CT
2. 120/240v low zigzag, or dogleg (adjustable from 100/200v up to 138/277v) Same issues with the CT
3. 240/480v high zigzag (adjustable from 200/400v up to 277/554v) Don’t know how many single phase 480v loads are out there, but 554v might be useful for the guy trying to get a little more lightning length out of his Tesla coil. Same issues with the CT

There are a few issues to deal with and things to think about:
1. The cable size going to the main circuit breaker and to the load terminals is too small for the increased current that is possible during single phase operation. It should be upsized appropriately.
2. I believe that no additional current would be traveling through individual generator windings, meaning that you could get the full rated 15kW out of the generator at 120/240v single phase without exceeding the design limits of the windings (however, the overload trip will still limit you to the current ratings from 3 phase operation).
3. The CT 1-3 could be re-wound to indicate proper current on each “leg”. This would also affect the overload trip.
4. Re-winding the CT’s might indicate proper current; however the overload trip is still set to 130% of the 3 phase rated current; meaning that it will still trip at roughly 55A, even though 63A would be the 100% rated current for single phase 120/240. It may be possible to add a properly sized resistor inline with the overload trip relays, as they only have a very small amount of current passing through them. This resistor could be sized to adjust the overload trip to the new 130% rated current of 82A. Another option would be to increase the size of resistors R23, R24, and R25 in the tactical relay box. It also may be possible to remove one turn of the generator leads from the CT; this would change how the ammeter and wattmeter read, and it would also raise the overload trip setpoint by roughly 25% (this is the method I intend to experiment with).
5. L0 is internally bonded to ground in the generator; therefore it would be absolutely critical to remove this bond prior to starting up the generator in delta configuration. Failure to do so would result in a hardwired phase to ground short.
6. T10, T11, and T12 are bonded together under the voltage reconnection board. It is critical to remove/modify this bonding bar for any configuration other than Wye. Failure to remove it would result is a phase to phase to phase short.
7. The generator reconfiguration should be able to be completed all on the voltage reconnection board; a few jumper wires and buss bars would complete the reconfiguration. I’m hoping to come up with a VERY simple reconnection for zigzag; the other connections will require a bit more work. For that reason I’ll try the zigzag first, and if it works I may proceed to experiment with the delta configurations.

I am planning on attempting this in the coming few weeks with one of my -004a sets. Of course I’ll take all of the safety precautions; and I am prepared for the possibility that I may destroy some critical internal components with my meddling (although I don’t think this will happen…otherwise I wouldn’t be trying it).
I’ll set up the video camera when I first fire this thing up, just in case I manage to create molten copper and smoke instead of single phase power.
I think I have a grasp on the problems, pitfalls, etc. associated with this reconfiguration (albeit a loose grasp). I’m looking for input before I try this out…anything I’ve missed? Am I re-creating something that somebody else has already accomplished?

Attached some relevant schematics and diagrams...

edit 1: low zigzag re-configuration is complete; it works mostly as predicted. Details and a video on page 3
edit 2: additional reconnections have been made to correct issues with the installed voltmeter and voltage regulator. Details on page 4
edit 3: I plan to post the entire reconnection process here in this original post once all of the testing is complete
edit 4: here is the completed process:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YmF4Awr3uc4
 

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sewerzuk

Member
524
10
18
Location
Seaside, OR
Sounds interesting. Am I reading correctly that this would be possible to do to a 002 or 003 as well?

Aaron Z
-002's and -003's have a built in switch that allows 120/240 double delta, 120v single phase, or 208/120v 3 phase wye. The re-configuration for these would be more complicated, as all 12 leads go to that enormous switch.

My plan would work well for an MEP-004, -005, or -006 and their precise equivalents because they all use the same voltage reconnection board.
 

storeman

Well-known member
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Peter,
Not to call you out.......But as I recall, you use MEP-004a single phase routinely as your backup power and I would love to know how and what amps you get from yours. This is an interesting thread. I turned down a mint 004a at Richmond last year because I was afraid of it.
Jerry
 

sewerzuk

Member
524
10
18
Location
Seaside, OR
Peter,
Not to call you out.......But as I recall, you use MEP-004a single phase routinely as your backup power and I would love to know how and what amps you get from yours. This is an interesting thread. I turned down a mint 004a at Richmond last year because I was afraid of it.
Jerry
Edit: oops! Just realized that question wasn't directed at me...but I'm sure he's doing the same 120/208 setup I am. Dang small screen on my phone!

Hey...no problem. It's a legit question!

Yep...I have an -004 for backup power for my house and shop. I just pull 120/208 off of 2 separate phases and send one to the house, and the other to my shop. I have a 200 amp transfer switch at each meter base to transfer over the entire service. 100% rated current for each phase is about 46 amps, and the overloads trip after about 8 minutes at 130% rated current, or about 60 amps. so, I can get 60 amps sustained to each building indefinitely, at 120/208 single phase. This runs everything in my house, an 90 % of the equipment in my shop. Every 240v load I have works fine on 208 (although my dryer takes a little longer to dry a load of laundry). It works great for my situation, but most people don't need to feed 2 separate electrical services, so they're stuck with a little less than 10kw.

If you're interested, I have a YouTube video showing one of my 004's powering my shop single phase. In the video, I start several large loads on the generator, and even show the waveform with my oscilloscope. I'd post a link to it, but I'm sending this from my phone and don't have the url handy. Just search through my YouTube videos (my name is the same there as it is here; sewerzuk)

edit: here it is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_ykrzMbTZk
 
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storeman

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sewerzuk
now i begin to understand your goal (after re-reading your original post) I guess balanced load is key to keep the unit from burning up. Can you run indefinitely on 120 single phase? FROM THAT SINGLE PHASE OPERATION CAN YOU GET 2 LEGS TO FEED A 220/240v BREAKER ON A NORMAL HOUSE WIRING SYSTEM?
opps, didn't realize i was typing in caps.
Jerry
 

Ken_86gt

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Williamsburg VA
I know that you can setup the MEP-005 and MEP-006 to single phase 120/240. I did this with my MEP-005 as a test and it worked for me. I don't know if the MEP-004 has the same generator head. I had posted a link to this page some time ago, it may help you:
Re-wiring a three phase generator | AnOldMan.com

When I did mine, I had some stange meter readings on the gen set, but confirmed with a hand held meter.
 

sewerzuk

Member
524
10
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Location
Seaside, OR
sewerzuk
now i begin to understand your goal (after re-reading your original post) I guess balanced load is key to keep the unit from burning up. Can you run indefinitely on 120 single phase? FROM THAT SINGLE PHASE OPERATION CAN YOU GET 2 LEGS TO FEED A 220/240v BREAKER ON A NORMAL HOUSE WIRING SYSTEM?
opps, didn't realize i was typing in caps.
Jerry
Yep; my plan is to get 100% of the generator's rated output from L1 and L3 at 120/240v; same as common residential service. This also allows you to get 240v, instead of 208.

I know that you can setup the MEP-005 and MEP-006 to single phase 120/240. I did this with my MEP-005 as a test and it worked for me. I don't know if the MEP-004 has the same generator head. I had posted a link to this page some time ago, it may help you:
Re-wiring a three phase generator | AnOldMan.com

When I did mine, I had some stange meter readings on the gen set, but confirmed with a hand held meter.
Wow...missed that one during my searches! The author of that web page did EXACTLY what I was planning to do, with reference to the low zigzag wiring. At least I can fire mine up now without worrying about wearing my firefighting gear [thumbzup]

He accomplished the proper output voltage, but still had to live with the reduced output because of the overload trip setpoint, and the funny meter readings. I intend to solve and/or explain those issues with my conversion.

I'll get right to doing a "how to" video for the -004 and -005. I'll post it up here as soon as I'm done...
 
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storeman

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Ken and sewerzuk,
now i'm following you. ken, your example went from 75 to 44 kw. that's comparable to the 15 to 9 kw de-rating on the mep004a. just out of curiosity, if one were willing to accept the de-rating, would it hurt the unit for it to operate in single phase as continuous backup? there were some postings a year or so ago about it being harmful. I believe Peterd has his set up as single phase backup but don't have any idea how much he has used it and he is laying low waiting for the next 004a give away.:grin:
some of the 004a's go cheaper than 003a's and appear to be in better shape for the $.
Jerry
 

Ken_86gt

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The Zig Zag configuration is considered "balanced" if that is what you are worried about. The only long term issue I see is of running the gen under too light of a load- which will eventually cause wet stacking. Diesel gens run ideally at 80% or more for best efficiency. The point at which wet stacking becomes an issue is probably when it is run for long periods under 20%. I get this number from the minimum rating that CAT uses in its newer diesel generators.
 

Ken_86gt

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In "general", when it comes to diesel generators, you want to size the generator to be 50-80% of expected average load. This is just a ballpark estimate and does not take into account motor starting surges and other factors. There is a science to spec'ing out generator sizes. The problem with over-sizing is wet stacking and decreased efficiency/cost of operation.

At least don't run out and buy a MEP-004, intending to run it single phase, until sewerzuk proves the concept works.
 

storeman

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Thanks Ken,
I don't intend to. I wonder how the 60-80% works when the unit is rated at 80% at 15kw at 8000' or whatever elevation. here at sea level it must take quite a load to satisfy it. More that we are likely to require unless a heat pump was involved.
Jerry
 

Ken_86gt

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The % rating that I am referring to would be 50-80% of 15KW, at sea level, with no derating in your senario. Now if your heatpump has a 10KW resistive backup heater like mine- you have to size your gen to at least 10KW plus ....You would need at least a 15KW if you plan on needing the resistive heater. Now the nice thing about the MEP generators we are talking about is that they can run 20% overloaded for I think an hour.

* This assumes that you are matching a single phase load to a single phase rated generator, not a three phase.
 

sewerzuk

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Location
Seaside, OR
just out of curiosity, if one were willing to accept the de-rating, would it hurt the unit for it to operate in single phase as continuous backup?
Jerry
Nope. It works just fine. In fact, the tech manual says it is permissible, provided you don't exceed 100% of rated current on any single phase. My personal setup in my shop and house is ideal, because I am supplying 2 independent services so I can fully load my genset (although it is never fully balanced).

My setup works well because, since I am using 2 of the 3 phases, I can usually fully load the generator. Most people don't need to feed to independent services, so the 3 phase output really isn't useful or practical in a residential system. So that's why I'm trying out this modification. It would make the -004 and even the -005 a viable backup generator for a power-hungry home.

I currently own several MEP's, including a few -004's, one -005, and one -006. One of my -004's is a pretty ratty looking set that will require a lot of effort to make saleable, so I intend to do my testing on that one. Less to lose if I burn up the generator head or some other critical part. If it works there, I'll present the same modification as an option if/when I go to sell one of the other sets.

I routinely test the -004's at 65A-70A per phase for an extended period of time to test the overload trips. I have run them for hours at close to this load with no problems whatsoever. I have even pulled some pretty massive starting surges, and once ran at close to 100A for several minutes. The engine has no problem with this in single phase, but when you hit about 65-70A 3 phase it begins to bog down.
One might think I'm abusing my sets...but I don't do it all the time. I figured that, if I wanted to sell one or two, I should be able to honestly say what they were capable of based on my own testing. Better to burn up something in one of my own than one that I sold to somebody.

edit: I do the same testing on my other sets, but I'm less aggressive with the -006's. My load bank tops out at about 80kW, so it is more difficult to really overload the -006. That thing makes an incredible amount of heat when you're pumping 75kW into it. All of the MEP's seem to be significantly over-engineered...I have yet to have one fail during electrical testing (pre-existing damaged parts excepted).
 
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PeterD

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Peter,
Not to call you out.......But as I recall, you use MEP-004a single phase routinely as your backup power and I would love to know how and what amps you get from yours. This is an interesting thread. I turned down a mint 004a at Richmond last year because I was afraid of it.
Jerry
What I did was to make (two) three phase transfer switches. These are the circuit by circuit type, one has six circuits and the other ten. The transfer switches then distribute the loads in those 16 circuits between the three phases of the generator.

Up side: no modifications to the generator were required.
Down side: Still not well balanced because things turn on and turn off as they're being used.

I could easily be convinced to restore these to single phase if there is a good way to convert the generator to single phase without hacking it up too much.
 

deuce bigalow

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Good thread. :beer:

Sewerzuk how do you have the 2 services hooked to the generator? Do you use 2 wires to each L1 & L3 terminals and not use L2?

I will eventually be doing the same thing, powering both house and shop with mine as well. For now it's just the shop and I hooked up L1 & L2 and didn't use L3.

I was thinking once I added a second service (when I build the house) that I would need to get a transformer to take 416v 3ph and deliver 240v 1ph to both. Then an electrician friend told me that would be a waste of money, not sure what his reasoning was.
 

Ken_86gt

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Deuce- You can not change 416V 3 Ph to 240V 1PH.

You could get what looks like 240V Delta 3Ph by ignoring the neutral and turning up the voltage when the gen is set to Low Y, 120/208 configuration. Then use 3 transformers to convert 240 single phase to 120/240 split phase- but this only gets you 3 different services that are still not in sync to call it all single phase.

You would be much better off just doing the zig-zag conversion to single phase if you must have 120/240 single (split) phase - this is what you see at your home power panel from the power company.
 
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