Rear Axle Lift Blocks for a Bobber

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Almost done building my bobber and I had some questions about the rear axle lift blocks for the M105 suspension bolted to the frame.

First, I'm sure aluminum is a no-go with the weight we're dealing with, but is cast iron ok? It doesn't need to be billet steel or cast steel?

In particular, are these ok: http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Comp-Lift...411063204&sr=1-8&keywords=pro+comp+lift+block

This is more personal preference, but should I make the truck level or a little higher in the back? I will measure for the lift block with the bed sitting on it but when I add the bed sides, cargo cover, fuel cans, pioneer tools, and maybe a spare tire to the bed I don't want the back to sit lower than the front. Should I sit the bed on, measure, then add a half inch, or...?

Thanks for input.

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Today I finished bolting in the rear crossmember and I drilled the holes for the air lines and tail lights. I sat the bed on the frame on some 4x4" cribbing to see how much the springs would compress.

The frame at the front by the winch is 38.5" high to the top. The frame at the very back is 38" high. I think a 3" lift block should give me a nice stance or should I stay smaller? I also will be adding about 200 lbs or so to the bed before its all done, plus the other fuel tank.

These Rough Country 3" fabricated steel ones will be $42 shipped, not worth me firing up the welder: http://www.roughcountry.com/universal-lift-block-kit-6594.html

Think they will be strong enough? If I'm holding them in my hands and I don't get a warm and fuzzy feeling I can always box them with plate on the sides.

 

[red]

With the strength depends on what you plan to carry with the truck. Call them to see what they are rated for but most of their suspension products are for the 1 ton truck and lighter market.

As you mentioned how much of a lift in the rear comes down to personal preference. Your springs will settle some more (half an inch or so) as you drive it.

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Found some 3-3/8" cast iron lift blocks on craigslist this morning and picked them up and installed them. Should be good to go now.

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Also, with the M105 bed mounted to my frame with just a 1/4 rubber spacer, can I run duals without flipping the hubs? Can I run duals WITH the hubs flipped or will they stick out like crazy?

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

I used 2.5"x1.5".250" steel tubing. Stacked up 3 pieces then welded them together then welded 1/2" plates to enclose it all. Drilled locating holes for the pins and called it a day. My truck isn't a show queen either.

 

[welldigger]

Also, with the M105 bed mounted to my frame with just a 1/4 rubber spacer, can I run duals without flipping the hubs? Can I run duals WITH the hubs flipped or will they stick out like crazy?

Hubs not flipped = duals. Hubs flipped= super singles.

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Hubs not flipped = duals. Hubs flipped= super singles.

Understood, but does the M105 frame mounted to the frame interfere with running duals? It looked like the bed floor at the fender well inner edge would contact the inner tire.

 

[welldigger]

There are a lot of guys with a bobber running 11.00-20 duals. I'm pretty sure there isn't any clearance problems.

 

[DUECE-COUPE]

The fender on the trailer bed is very close to the inside dual. Run a 4x4 PT between the bed and the frame, and drill 3/4 in hole to allow the frame rivets to sink into the wood.

 

[welldigger]

Tubbing the inner fenders of the 105 bed is easy enough to do also.

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Tubbing the inner fenders of the 105 bed is easy enough to do also.

Can you elaborate on that?

 

[welldigger]

Hmm trying to figure out the easiest way to explain it.

Basically you will cut the inner fenders out of the bed. Then cut a few inches extra out of the floor of the bed where the fenders were. Then weld your inner fenders back in. You will have to then fill the gap between the fender and the bed side with sheet metal. Since the inner fenders are made of flat sections of sheet metal it would be relatively easy to do. At least if you have any welding or auto body experience.


Google tubbing inner fenders for examples of what I'm talking about. The 105 would be easier than any car or truck.

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Ok, I see what you're saying. I'm not looking to do anything like that but I did see that there was some meat I could trim off the ribs under the center of the bed if it came down to a half an inch. I guess I'll see what I need to do once I get the bed on. Just waiting on the u-bolts and lengthened driveshaft now.

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

So close to being done!

so what's the correct way of installing the driveshaft, slip yoke towards the axle or the tcase?

 

[welldigger]

Slip yoke towards t case.