Rear brake caliper w/ parking brake issues

[GYs_M998]

I have several questions about the parking brake setup on my 998. I have tried searching the existing threads for answers but either missed them or they just aren’t out there. If the answer is already in a thread, I am sorry for taking everyone down a familiar rabbit hole and would be thankful for the location of the pre-existing thread.

My issues started when I noticed my right rear caliper was leaking significantly one day - Big obvious stain underneath it in the driveway. It looks to be coming from the parking brake actuator shaft. I bought a rebuild kit and followed the steps to replacing every seal in the dang thing. When I was seating the parking brake actuator shaft dust seal, I pinched the little spring inside of it. Not too bad, but it did give me pause. I pushed ahead and I got it all back together. Then I used a negative pressure pump on the bleeder valves to flush all old fluid as well as air bubbles (old fluid was really bad). Turned on the truck, gave the brake pedal a couple of pumps until the squishiness subsided. Once the pedal firmed up I gave it one more pump for good measure. Felt a slight pop through the pedal, head something matching what I felt, and the pedal was super squishy again and the brake light came back on. Looked under the truck… big ol’ puddle is back bigger than before and the parking brake assembly side of the caliper is dripping.

First question: does the parking brake actuator shaft dust seal retain fluid, or is it truly just a dust seal? The actuator shaft has its own o-ring so I figured by the name [dust seal] that pinching the metal tension spring wouldn’t be too big of a deal. If that is true, anyone have any ideas on what I may have messed up in rebuilding this thing that would make it leak like I put it together with bubblegum and duct tape?

Second question: does anyone have an auto parts store part number, an NSN, or the dimensions for the parking brake actuator shaft dust seal? I don’t want to buy another $60 kit for a single 50¢ seal.

Third question: in taking the caliper off and putting it on, I have discovered that the brake line is a hard line with coil above the caliper for slack rather than a soft line. Those who have had to remove one of the rear calipers know how much of a pain it is to remove the brake line without removing the half shaft. Is there a kit to change a portion of that hard line to a soft line, or is it something that one would have to cobble together on my own?

I appreciate all thoughts and input. Apologies for delving into any topics that exist in other threads.

 

[Mogman]

Welcome to the SS forums!

 

[GYs_M998]

It’s been a little over a week and here’s an update for anyone reading this in the future looking for answers to the same questions:
- for questions 1 & 2 above, I did not get an answer. I ended up just replacing the entire caliper rather than potentially repeatedly installing and removing the same caliper for the same issues.

As for the last question, I saw in another thread that people were talking about some kit that a company makes to change the hard lines in the rear (from the T to the calipers) over to soft lines. I decided to piece it together myself. It ended up only costing me about $30 per side.

What you will need (this is per caliper):
- (1) 36” braided stainless steel brake line with 3AN female fittings. $18.70/ea
- (2) 3AN male to 3/8-24 inverted flare male (IFM) adapter fittings. $5/ea
*All can be found on the popular online shopping site and can be delivered next day.

[if you want to eliminate the brass adapter at the caliper, substitute one of the above adapter fittings with a 3AN male to 3AN male adapter fitting.]

Method:
Note: I found this process was easiest with caliper removed for more room to maneuver.
-remove line from caliper with a 3/8” line wrench
-remove line from T with a 3/8” line wrench
-remove snap clips securing the hub vent tube to the brake line. (Mine had 3, but quantities may vary)
-remove the 9/16” bolt and bracket securing the brake line to the crossmember.
-remove brake line, remove bracket from line, place bracket on new line.
-place adapter fitting into the T.
Note: some people argue that some sort of teflon tape or thread lock fluid is necessary. If you agree, apply before installing fittings.
-place new line in position and secure to the T with line wrench.
-adjust position of securing bracket to align with hole in crossmember and secure with 9/16” bolt.
-place new adapter fitting into caliper and attached new line with line wrench.
-optional but recommended: secure new line to hub vent tubes with zip ties; or you may be able to reuse the old clips if they will fit around your new brake line. This will depend on the outer dimension of the line you purchased.
-complete any additional assembly to brake system (e.g. reattaching caliper or any other items)
-check all bolts
-ensure new line is clear of any rubbing or snagging on other components. Zip ties can be your friend here. You don’t want the new line rubbing on anything. With the inherent vibrating of the truck, this has the potential over time of causing a hole in your brake line. You also don’t want the new line coming into contact with the rotor or any other spinning/moving parts
-repeat all steps on opposite side/caliper.
-purge/flush brake system according to TM.
-test brakes in a controlled area.

Hope this helps someone down the road



[The attached images are the old HARD brake line and the new SOFT brake line with fittings. I painted my new hardware red for my own purposes

 

[TNDRIVER]

It’s been a little over a week and here’s an update for anyone reading this in the future looking for answers to the same questions:
- for questions 1 & 2 above, I did not get an answer. I ended up just replacing the entire caliper rather than potentially repeatedly installing and removing the same caliper for the same issues.

As for the last question, I saw in another thread that people were talking about some kit that a company makes to change the hard lines in the rear (from the T to the calipers) over to soft lines. I decided to piece it together myself. It ended up only costing me about $30 per side.

What you will need (this is per caliper):
- (1) 36” braided stainless steel brake line with 3AN female fittings. $18.70/ea
- (2) 3AN male to 3/8-24 inverted flare male (IFM) adapter fittings. $5/ea
*All can be found on the popular online shopping site and can be delivered next day.

[if you want to eliminate the brass adapter at the caliper, substitute one of the above adapter fittings with a 3AN male to 3AN male adapter fitting.]

Method:
Note: I found this process was easiest with caliper removed for more room to maneuver.
-remove line from caliper with a 3/8” line wrench
-remove line from T with a 3/8” line wrench
-remove snap clips securing the hub vent tube to the brake line. (Mine had 3, but quantities may vary)
-remove the 9/16” bolt and bracket securing the brake line to the crossmember.
-remove brake line, remove bracket from line, place bracket on new line.
-place adapter fitting into the T.
Note: some people argue that some sort of teflon tape or thread lock fluid is necessary. If you agree, apply before installing fittings.
-place new line in position and secure to the T with line wrench.
-adjust position of securing bracket to align with hole in crossmember and secure with 9/16” bolt.
-place new adapter fitting into caliper and attached new line with line wrench.
-optional but recommended: secure new line to hub vent tubes with zip ties; or you may be able to reuse the old clips if they will fit around your new brake line. This will depend on the outer dimension of the line you purchased.
-complete any additional assembly to brake system (e.g. reattaching caliper or any other items)
-check all bolts
-ensure new line is clear of any rubbing or snagging on other components. Zip ties can be your friend here. You don’t want the new line rubbing on anything. With the inherent vibrating of the truck, this has the potential over time of causing a hole in your brake line. You also don’t want the new line coming into contact with the rotor or any other spinning/moving parts
-repeat all steps on opposite side/caliper.
-purge/flush brake system according to TM.
-test brakes in a controlled area.

Hope this helps someone down the road



[The attached images are the old HARD brake line and the new SOFT brake line with fittings. I painted my new hardware red for my own purposes

I'll give this a 9.5........... installed pictures would make it a 9.6 THANKS from the masses. GREAT post.