Rear Disc Brakes

[Brent.Cain]

I really like my blue torch fabrication disk brake set up it allows alot more adjustment as you go taller with a lift and ur pinon angle goes up

 

[Brent.Cain]

Oh ps its also cheaper if you buy yourselves own parts an not in a kit all you need it dana 44 calipers and dana front rotors its really cheap and works grate and the BTF brackets you don't weld on and after all who needs emergency brakes you have an auto trans

 

[epitts]

GREAT Another mod I will need, too both trucks.

 

[Sharecropper]

I am currently in the process of lifting my M1028 5" and am improvising an adjustable linkage for the prportioning valve. I will post photos when I get this done.

 

[rnd-motorsports]

Buy the brackets then get calipers and rotors and brake lines from your local parts outlet with or without parking breaks way cheaper! Do the hole thing for about 350.00. I myself remove the ball in the proportioning valve to the rear, equalizes the brakes front and rear! not only makes for better brakes but also cuts about 65 lbs or more.

 

[DokWatson]

14 Bolt Full Floating Disc conversion Kit

 

[11Echo]

ccatlett1984 on SS did this some years back. I don't recall the thread.

More pics here- http://s239.photobucket.com/albums/ff129/ccatlett1984/

 

[Brent.Cain]

Buy the brackets then get calipers and rotors and brake lines from your local parts outlet with or without parking breaks way cheaper! Do the hole thing for about 350.00. I myself remove the ball in the proportioning valve to the rear, equalizes the brakes front and rear! not only makes for better brakes but also cuts about 65 lbs or more.

yes it is and thank you thats what i was trying to say but i was in my "smart phone" and i was hitting all kinds of diffrent things lol

 

[epitts]

What year did the 10 bolt 6 lug come with rear disc brakes?

Thanks

 

[SGT LongT]

Every time I look on this site I add more to my "to do list" of upgrades but that is all part of the fun

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

who needs emergency brakes you have an auto trans

1. There's no such thing as an "emergency brake".
2. It's a PARKING brake.
3. It's designed for PARKING, not emergencies.
4. Yes, it can be used in emergencies, but it's not intended for that.
5. The auto trans locking mechanism is a backup; it's not intended to hold the vehicle by itself.
6. If you depend on the auto trans to hold the vehicle, one of these days you may find yourself wondering why your vehicle is at the bottom of the hill when you distinctly remember parking it halfway up.

I used to debate this with a mechanic friend of mine. (I'll call him Dan.) He was absolutely convinced that nobody ever needed to use the parking brake. He said the trans was built to hold the car just fine.

One day I dropped by the shop where Dan worked. Somehow the subject came up again, and he said he'd prove it to me. So he takes me over to see their trans rebuilder (I'll call him Fred). Fred was an old-timer who did nothing but rebuild transmissions. Dan told Fred about the debate. The old guy laughed in Dan's face and told him he was an idiot. (Fred wasn't known for tact.)

Then Fred showed Dan a trans on the bench, which happened to be the same as Dan had in his family car (Ford LTD, IIRC). Fred pointed out what locks the drive train. It's just a little tab of sheet metal that engages one of the gears. That's it. Fred said all transmissions were essentially the same, and that he's rebuilt plenty of transmissions that had that little thing sheared off.



That's what some of you guys are depending on to hold your truck on a hill.


It's a parking brake. It's there for a reason.

 

[BIG_RED]

FYI You may also be required to have a working parking break in order to pass a random roadside inspection. That is how it works here.

And I have to agree 100% that the trans "park gear" on civilian class vehicles is not adequate to be used as the sole stopping mechanism on a hill. I always put my vehicles in neutral, engage the parking brake, let the vehicle "roll into the parking brake", then I put it in "park". That way there is no stress on the trans parking break and you can still take your keys out of the ignition. In the event of parking brake failure, the trans park gear may come into play as a backup.

I have never seen the inside of a commercial truck auto trans, so I cannot speak to the strength of their park "brake".

 

[79 oshkosh 2323]

thank you

 

[forest522]

I have heard of the auto trans park setting slipping on some older vehicles. That just worries me. They should call the parking brake the worry brake. I use that thing alot. Maybe I watched too many episodes of CHiPs.

Its getting loose and rusty...will have to add that to the list of things to rebuild...
Great thread on rear disc brakes though, another one of those dream projects! Thanks.

 

[tstone]

The disc changeout looks like a great mod. Did you stay with the original silicone brake fluid or flush and use DOT 3?

 

[Sharecropper]

I stayed with original fluid. The rear disc brakes have been on my truck for three years now and are still performing flawlessly. The parking brake works as designed and holds the truck without any strain on the transmission. Of all the modifications and improvements I did on my M1028, in retrospect I believe the rear disc conversion ranks among the most important upgrades.

Hope this helps.

 

[paraclete comes]

I will be attempting this as soon as I switch out my axles, rather than rebuilding the existing drum brakes on the donor axles. Thanks for the good into links on this guys.

 

[skysix]

My M1028 does indeed have the factory load-proportioning valve. I didn't touch it and everything works perfect. The only time this would need to be modified is if the truck was lifted.

What angle should it be at and how? bend the mount? make new link?

 

[Cucvnut]

Vertical then the bar pointing down to the axle.

 

[Sharecropper]

What angle should it be at and how? bend the mount? make new link?

I explained this in detail in post #75 of my rebuild thread. There are two things that you should pay attention to - 1.)- the little dot on the valve needs to be positioned at 12:00 with no weight in the truck, and 2.)- the angle of the two actuating arms needs to be at or close to 90 degrees with no load. The dot on the valve can be adjusted by simply removing the nut and pulling the short arm off, rotating the valve to the correct position, and then reinstalling the short arm and nut. A longer arm, if needed to accommodate a lift, can easily be fabricated by picking up a piece of 1/8" x 1" steel bar stock from the hardware store and cutting it to the appropriate length and drilling new holes.

Hope this helps.