Rear main replacement clarification

[Kaiserjeeps]

I have been reading using the search feature and I still have some questions regarding my multifuel rear main replacement.
I lost a new clutch at around 3-4K. I found the CR number for the fluoromaster upgraded seal. I ordered it through napa and they brought in a Timken 39801
This seal comes with a speedy sleeve in it. I wish they would not do that.
I asked them about the seal material. I did not get an answer.
Is the Timken seal acceptable or equal to the CR seal for a rear main?
It looks like oD iron has the CR seal alone for 59.00 Everyone else is 100.00 bucks.

I found the CR number as 49929 or 49927. Which one is right?

I need to drill out the seal with oil drain holes if it does not have them right?

I was going to replace the disk and throwout. The pressure plate has little to no wear with some polishing from slipping. Can it be scuffed and reused?
Yes I would like a brand new clutch again. But I need to watch the money for now. I have a solvent tank and can degrease the PP just fine.
Am I asking for it?

 

[gimpyrobb]

AL, when I built my dropside with the LDS motor, I sanded the flywheel and PP and installed a used clutch. It has gotten me to Ga, Tn, Nc, Il, and other places. I think you should be fine. You still got my cell? Gimme a call if you need. You'll have to wait till tomorrow cause it got shut off. OPPS!

 

[Speddmon]

I found the CR number as 49929 or 49927. Which one is right?

The 49927 CR part number is the one with the "Viton" flouroelastomer seal, and should be quite a bit more expensive than the regular seal.

I used the CR part # 49928 seal in mine when I did it...it's just the regular rubber seal, but I'm a cheap a$$ and didn't want to spend the money on the better seal.

I need to drill out the seal with oil drain holes if it does not have them right?

That's a new one on me???? I've been around a lot seals in my day and I've never seen one with drill holes in it...not intentional holes anyway

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yeah, its been posted a bunch. I didn't do mine, but many have. It allows the oil to drain back easier.

 

[Speddmon]

OK? is it possible that this has something to do with engines that have the rear main carrier in place? Mine has no carrier, and with or without holes in the seal, it would make absolutely no difference in oil returning to the gallery.

 

[gimpyrobb]

That is correct.

 

[Speddmon]

AAAHHHHH!!!!!!

Clear as mud now, thanks for clearing that up.

 

[Kaiserjeeps]

Thanks Speddmon for clarifying that CR number. So if that's the one OD iron has for 59.00 I'll be a happy Duece camper. I am going to have napa return the timken 39801 seal and sleeve. Unless google pays off in ten minutes or less on what the timken is made of.
Like before, I wish NAPA would quit that. Sometimes I want a specific seal or part brand.

Gimp, I am going for a new disk. Probably 3K on this one. Grrr. It's pretty cooked. Looks like a bunch of bad burger pattys on a BBq turned up too high. Plus a new throw out bearing and unless the pilot measures out big thats it. The PP has 3K on it and was new from saturn from before. There is some polishing from spinning, but no real grooves. So into the solvent tank for it and a careful scuff. I was going to have the flywheel turned. It has some signs of heat.

Of course I had to start stripping the floors. And converting to spring seats, and......

Thanks for the clarification today. I could not find it right off. I lost it waiting for the seal to show up.

 

[Speddmon]

I am going to have napa return the timken 39801 seal and sleeve. Unless google pays off in ten minutes or less on what the timken is made of

Here is a link to Applied Industrial Supplies, they are one of our distributors (I work for Timken), that seal is made from teflon, as you can see in the product page I linked.

Here is a link to the CR part# 49927 "Viton" seal from Applied Industrial, you can compare the two seals on some of the tech specs...the Timken "Teflon" seal has a much higher "surface speed" rating, as well as a pressure rating of 30 PSI compared to 10 PSI for the CR seal....you be the judge of wich one you will use.

 

[Speddmon]

well, I tried the link for the CR seal above and it doesn't work...applied is having troubles. If you search their home-page for Item #1558980 that is the CR seal you need...it is also quite a bit more expensive than the Timken seal.

 

[saddamsnightmare]

October 29th, 2009.

White Owl Parts has the seals for less, I don't think I spent $40.00 on rear main seal
and a coupla bucks more for the seal carrier housing seal.... If you do one, do the other too. On mine the rear main seal (original was fair), it was the carrier housing seal that went and was leaking prodigiously (like one quart every 250 to 500 miles, versus every thousand when I got her in October 2007. For some reason rear main seals seem to go more from sitting then use, and when they go its a pain in the tail to fix, just cause you gotta get the tranny outta the way.....

Good luck and happy motoring,

my old girl's a dream now that the's been fixed.... Do check the clutch condition while you're in there, no need to do it twice.... ALSO REPLACE THE FLYWHEELL BOLTS (6), don't reuse the old ones... that's bad JuJu...

Cheers,

Kyle F. McGrogan

 

[m-35tom]

the holes are in the seal retainer, not the seal, for oil drain back to the pan. if there are not 3 holes in the bottom after you take the seal out, drill 3, 1/4" holes. don't use a organic clutch disk behind a diesel in a heavy truck, it won't last. use a metalic pad disk. if that is what you have it will clean up fine with parts cleaner. also with a metalic disk, the flywheel and pp must be flat and smooth for complete contact and good grip.

tom

 

[Kaiserjeeps]

Wow, some good information on applied's site. The Timken seal looks better. It comes with a speedy sleeve, has better ratings for heat, cold, and running speed. It's teflon verses viton. The timken has no spring though. The CR does. Decisions.... hmm.

The CR is what is known to work well. I am tempted to go with it because it has been used and proven itself. I'll have it figured out by midnight.

I need to pull the flywheel and have it surfaced. I don't want to take a chance on the disk. It's looks cooked on there (the oil) and blackened by heat. That with a new TO bearing and I should be good. It's gonna snow soon. I need my rig running.