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Rear main seal

fpchief

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Picking up the new, not really needed rear main seal from the parts house today. I assume the tm is the 34-2-1?? Sure am having trouble finding the removal. Or....is it written in with another project? All I have to work off of is a smartphone right now.
Kip
 

swbradley1

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After removing transmission and associated gear it is relatively easy to use a seal puller to pop the seal out. Take care not to damage anything bu the seal. You can put the new one in with anything that will spread the stress out across the largest area of the seal. The ultimate would a seal tool that fit it perfectly. Without a perfect tool I might try a leather mallet or rubber hammer to get it started.
 

fpchief

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Clutch removal

I have never had to do a clutch job. This is my first time. And only removing it to do the rear main. The TM states to "push in the four clutch release levers and and put blocks between lever and pressure plate. I don't think I get it. Here is my clutch. Are the levers under alot of tension?
uploadfromtaptalk1454107893275.jpg
 

pigpen60

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Well they are pretty tight, Ive done a herd of clutches and i just take the bolts out everyother one. when your down to 3 back them off a little at a time till they are out. reverse the procedure with a dummy shaft to line the disc up with the pilot bushing and torque to spec. Hope this helps.
 

gimpyrobb

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If your just doing a rear main seal, leave the pressure plate and clutch on the flywheel. Yeah its heavy by itself, but a few extra pounds won't make that much difference. Then you won't have to worry about a clutch alignment tool to put it back together.
 

clinto

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It's not that the fingers (levers) are under a lot of tension.

As you bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel, the force of the pressure plate bottoming out on the disc forces the fingers down, or forwards, torward the engine. Conversely, as you unbolt the pressure plate, you'll see the fingers rising, or moving towards the rear of the vehicle.

The concern is that without the blocks in between the fingers and the pressure plate frame, that the pressure plate housing (the part you bolt to the flywheel) will be too far away for the short pressure plate bolts to get started. I looked on YouTube for a video that explains this better but was unsuccessful.

If you're not reusing the old clutch, then don't worry about it. If in the future, you're reusing the pressure plate, then use the blocks.

The above scenario is why many race clutches are sold with advertised specs for the "installed finger height"-because the fingers are in different positions, installed and uninstalled.

Also re: Gimpy's comment. I can't read dry humor over the internet because I'm colorblind, but how do you get to the flywheel bolts with a clutch disc in the way?

EDIT: I see while I was typing this, Gimpy responded. For clarity, you can not remove the flywheel without first removing the clutch assy.
 

fpchief

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It's not that the fingers (levers) are under a lot of tension.

As you bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel, the force of the pressure plate bottoming out on the disc forces the fingers down, or forwards, torward the engine. Conversely, as you unbolt the pressure plate, you'll see the fingers rising, or moving towards the rear of the vehicle.

The concern is that without the blocks in between the fingers and the pressure plate frame, that the pressure plate housing (the part you bolt to the flywheel) will be too far away for the short pressure plate bolts to get started. I looked on YouTube for a video that explains this better but was unsuccessful.

If you're not reusing the old clutch, then don't worry about it. If in the future, you're reusing the pressure plate, then use the blocks.

The above scenario is why many race clutches are sold with advertised specs for the "installed finger height"-because the fingers are in different positions, installed and uninstalled.

Also re: Gimpy's comment. I can't read dry humor over the internet because I'm colorblind, but how do you get to the flywheel bolts with a clutch disc in the way?

EDIT: I see while I was typing this, Gimpy responded. For clarity, you can not remove the flywheel without first removing the clutch assy.
Clinto, so the blocks go in between fingers and frame that is to the outside of clutch? TM was saying between fingers and plate. What you said makes a little more sense.

So just a piece of wood I can get in there?
 

clinto

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Clinto, so the blocks go in between fingers and frame that is to the outside of clutch? TM was saying between fingers and plate. What you said makes a little more sense.

So just a piece of wood I can get in there?
Check these pictures.

s-l300.jpg$(KGrHqJHJEUFBf,U,vuGBQgFu!(l9w~~60_35.JPG
 

rustystud

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What you can do is get three longer bolts and start them in (spaced around the plate). Then when you have the pressure plate closer to the flywheel you install the correct bolts. Of course remove the longer bolts. Remember to use a clutch alignment tool.
 

Bill W

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I pulled my tranny because of a leaky rear seal so my "While I'm in there things" was to install a new clutch pack and turn the flywheel since it was all out.
 
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