Rear Radius Rod

[osteo16]

Tearing down rear end on the 88’ M998. Want to replace the rear radius rods because one is bent and one has some bad threads... So I can’t seem to find anything longer than 10.87” as a replacement.. The ones on my rig are a solid 12” long.. Has anyone else had a problem with this or know where I could find the 12” tubes ? Or is everyone using the 10.87” long ones.. I’m perplexed........

Thanks

Ocho

 

[Coug]

You mean like this one?

12507046 - SLEEVE, RADIUS ROD (W/CLAMPS) {REAR 10-3/4

www.hummerpartsguy.com

I don't know the length, and a part number for just the sleeve doesn't come up in the parts manual, but I'd trust HPG to give me the right part or take care of it if it is somehow wrong.

 

[osteo16]

Yes like that one, if that one is 12" and not the 10.87" that I've been finding everywhere. Im just concerned with the shorter length because my rod ends will most likely only screw into the radius rod up to the far end of the relief cut and not completely into the tube.. Not sure if it matters or if anyone else has had similar issue with using the shorter radius tube ( 10.87") to replace the early tube (12"),,, That item number looks like the 10.87" tube...

Thanks

 

[Coug]

Checking the parts manual, for the A0-A2 trucks there were 2 part numbers for the radius rod assembly. One covered almost all the trucks, the other was just for the M997 and 1097, everything else was covered under the other part number.
So either they have updated it to an assembly with a shorter sleeve and you'll need to order a complete radius rod assembly in order to repair it, or hope someone chimes in here that they replaced their old one with a new one and still have the sleeve lying around.

 

[86humv]

The shorter tube works with the Moog tie rod ends for trucks with 12k hubs which have different steering arm covers.

 

[osteo16]

Well, to add to my plight.. I also have another radius tube I ordered months ago, and it is even shorter than the 10.87” model..it’s like 8 1/2”... My front radius rods are close to the 10” rods, but my rears are definately 12”.. guess I’ll do some calling around .. feel free anyone to look above and chime in..

Thanks

Ocho

 

[Coug]

If you run out of other options:

Genuine Humvee Parts

Genuine Humvee Parts

genuinehumveeparts.com

List price $120, plus whatever freight is.
Matches the NSN for A0 and A1 HMMWVs in the -24. Only issue we've been having with that site is sometimes they're slow to actually build the parts they are selling.

 

[osteo16]

I have an idea.. New solution.. Two birds, one stone type of thing.

 

[Coug]

I have an idea.. New solution.. Two birds, one stone type of thing.

oh? What type of solution?
Cutting one in half and adding a sleeve to make it longer is one possibility, but only if you are a certified welder or know one, otherwise starts getting cost prohibitive.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

A0-A1 trucks use longer Rods Due to design of earlier control arm cove.
A2 on up uses a straight control arm cover compared to slanted outward A0-A1 cover.

 

[billyoffshore]

Yes like that one, if that one is 12" and not the 10.87" that I've been finding everywhere. Im just concerned with the shorter length because my rod ends will most likely only screw into the radius rod up to the far end of the relief cut and not completely into the tube.. Not sure if it matters or if anyone else has had similar issue with using the shorter radius tube ( 10.87") to replace the early tube (12"),,, That item number looks like the 10.87" tube...

Thanks

Well, I am at the "exact" same point with the Radius Rods, and would Really like to know how you made out ? I "just" put a message out to Dave at HPG, and should hear back tomorrow I would think. I have the "12 inch" in place original sleeves, (that are not too bad actually), so I could and can, just detail them, and install the Newer / MOOG / End fittings into them. thanks in advance and let us know how you did....

 

[osteo16]

Well, I am at the "exact" same point with the Radius Rods, and would Really like to know how you made out ? I "just" put a message out to Dave at HPG, and should hear back tomorrow I would think. I have the "12 inch" in place original sleeves, (that are not too bad actually), so I could and can, just detail them, and install the Newer / MOOG / End fittings into them. thanks in advance and let us know how you did....

Nada yet, I haven't gotten it road worthy, but temporarily used the 10.87" rods just to move truck around garage.. The ends only seat into the tubes maybe 3/4", probably not road safe.. Did you have any luck with 12" tubes? My idea was to take the 10.87" rod, cut in half lengthwise, splice weld a threaded 6" bolt with nut in between making 12" length.. Then Id have a nice nut (mid shaft) to dial in my radius rod for toe in/out without having to put a pipe wrench on it and tearing off all the paint. Have a certified welder to do it, just haven't got around to it yet.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Nada yet, I haven't gotten it road worthy, but temporarily used the 10.87" rods just to move truck around garage.. The ends only seat into the tubes maybe 3/4", probably not road safe.. Did you have any luck with 12" tubes? My idea was to take the 10.87" rod, cut in half lengthwise, splice weld a threaded 6" bolt with nut in between making 12" length.. Then Id have a nice nut (mid shaft) to dial in my radius rod for toe in/out without having to put a pipe wrench on it and tearing off all the paint. Have a certified welder to do it, just haven't got around to it yet.

your really overthinking this...just reuse the old rod, swap in the new rod ends, apply anti-seize on the rod end threads for later adjustment, if you even ever have to again, rear rods and ball joints don’t wear at the rate the fronts do.

 

[billyoffshore]

your really overthinking this...just reuse the old rod, swap in the new rod ends, apply anti-seize on the rod end threads for later adjustment, if you even ever have to again, rear rods and ball joints don’t wear at the rate the fronts do.

Yep, exactly.....It would have been Nice to just "put em' on" with the New Perfect New Sleeves. The Boyz in the Motor Pool used a BIG Pipe wrench on the existing old units, and they look a bit "chewy"......I will detail them up / Paint them. (I just don't want anyone to think I did that, lol).

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Yep, exactly.....It would have been Nice to just "put em' on" with the New Perfect New Sleeves. The Boyz in the Motor Pool used a BIG Pipe wrench on the existing old units, and they look a bit "chewy"......I will detail them up / Paint them. (I just don't want anyone to think I did that, lol).

ive taken a flapper wheel and smoothed out the pipe wrench marks...

 

[osteo16]

Well, I’m not replacing the tube for cosmetic reasons, it’s bent like a banana... otherwise I wouldn’t be needing a new one.. I’m not that vain.. PO musta hit something and broke the hub arm and bent the crap outta the radius rod.. That’s why I don’t want to replace everything, all parts are good except the tube portion.. maybe I can heat it up and straighten it out ..

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Well, I’m not replacing the tube for cosmetic reasons, it’s bent like a banana... otherwise I wouldn’t be needing a new one.. I’m not that vain.. PO musta hit something and broke the hub arm and bent the crap outta the radius rod.. That’s why I don’t want to replace everything, all parts are good except the tube portion.. maybe I can heat it up and straighten it out ..

the old long style have gotten rare and expensive....there are tons of new style on the market.
I have used old style somewhere around the shop

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I checked with my distributor, new complete units are $180, down from $320.

 

[billyoffshore]

ive taken a flapper wheel and smoothed out the pipe wrench marks...

Exactly......yes.....I am on it......(the New ones looked SO GOOD though !).....

 

[osteo16]

So, if I used the 10.87” Rod and the moog tie rod end, can I still use with original steering arm cover or do I need to change that also to make it work ? Talking rears here..... thx