Rear Suspension Question

[Olly]

What's the best way to remove the top torque arms on the rear suspension? I can get to the mounts on the axle and remove them easy enough the problem I got is trying to get the two that go on the passenger side on the top behind the leaf spring... I could take the whole spring off but would prefer just to take the nuts off the torque arms can't seem to get anything in there... Also does anyone know what size those nuts are? Any suggestions on how to press the old bushings out and new ones in?
Thanks

 

[simp5782]

Shave a 2-1/4" wrench down and the open end will fit or a thin type of wrench works fine or buy a socket.and cut down as such shown below

Just as easy to use a extension and 1-1/2" socket and remove the leave spring bolts pretty quick. Remove the upper lift shackle and use the socket on em.

 

[Olly]

Thanks for the pic I got exactly what you're saying now should save me some time.... good idea. Also noticed when I was looking for new bushings there's rubber bushing and metal bushings other than the price is there really a big difference in the two?

 

[simp5782]

Metal bushings are costly and not worth it I have worn out the heavy duty ends. Add a rear safety bar or just use the truck and you wont have issues. Unused rubber is the worst kind. Stock bushings with normal useage will prevent failures.

As far as pressing them in and out. Just need something made to the exact size of the outer bushing to fit inside the rod end

 

[Olly]

Thanks for the heads up... guess I'll just go with the rubber ones then.

 

[74M35A2]

Drill and tap new stock ones with a threaded hole to bolt on a retainer plate. Quickly and easily done on a lathe before installation. Old ones press out easily with a shell of an old one. New ones press in by just pushing on the solid center, use lube.

I used the shaved wrench, then pulled it rearward with a truck and strap, came loose easily. Just sheared all cotter pins, did not remove any. Did all 6 bones at once, truck on ground. Went well.

Good info in this thread. My work is post #60 and on with pictorials if you want some ideas:

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?167166-All-5-tons-Heavy-Duty-Torque-Rod-Ends/page6

 

[Olly]

Thanks for the thread link I'll have to check that out.

 

[wheelspinner]

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?107370-Unhappy-Dogbone-thingy&highlight=

My experience.

 

[Olly]

guess you lucked out that you noticed it. I agree I think thats a major flaw in the suspension, hoping to come up with a better solution than stock cause they don't seem to be that reliable.

 

[simp5782]

Incorrect. They are reliable. You just need to make sure your truck is in road worthy condition. The issue is that most of these trucks just sit, and sit some more and then someone decides to go for a drive. Everyone worries about their tires having dry rot but do not realize that everything else rubber on the truck can have dry rot to. The less usage for rubber the more it fatigues and is not flexible. This is what causes it to pop off the end like that after the rubber has just gave out.

I have 3 torque rods that have rubber inserts and 3 that have the metal ones. I chose the metal ones for the upper rods due to what could happen if they came apart and the chaos it can do. However I have had the metal ones wear out well before the rubber ones. I drive on all types of road conditions including some of the worst paved roads you will ever ride on and I have not had an issue out of the rubber ones. and we are talking 240,000 plus miles on rubber ones. The key is usage. Or keeping them protected so that they do not fatigue.

 

[BenRoberts]

I've used an air chisel to get the nut to start turning. It works out pretty good. The collar size is exactly 4" od for pressing them in and out